137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
06-05-2015, 10:32 AM
06-05-2015, 11:09 AM
There are a dozen threads arguing about which is better, RM or MM, and the differences. This is a car thread, lets stick to the car.
06-05-2015, 11:17 AM
EDIT: OK ill drop this
06-05-2015, 11:19 AM
anyone notice the low rider 3 gear at the worlds warm up? And the non anodized rear hubs?
06-05-2015, 11:51 AM
Some of us are lucky enough to run on the same tracks the pros do. So we run cars like they do. Because their setups support the tracks we drive on. No one is making RM setups, so why buy the car, right. That is how it kinda goes. Follow the leader. But i have seen several videos and pictures of tracks where the locals chose the rm CARS BECAUSE mm JUST DO NOT WORK WELL. caps lock. I am talking about tracks with rooster tailing all the way around the track. Those 80's and early 90's style tracks. On those tracks....I would run RM, at least until I see if I can get MM to work. On race days, I hate to drive cars I am struggling with. Those cars are for practice days.
This is where knowing how to setup your own cars is huge... Not mention a very very smooth throttle finger! You can't just go to ae's site and slap on a setup for this. I've worked through a few changes and this what made the biggest difference:
Increased droop front and rear by .5-1mm
Tapered Pistons in rear
Brass C and D blocks!!!
78 spur to move that motor back
Plastic hubs with .5 more toe
I even like the gullwing arms because they have a better feel on tracks with sweeping turns.
I was a skeptic for sure on mm working in these conditions. Not anymore! At first I tired the car with 0* hubs and 3.5 inner toe and it was a missle, too much rear bite.
The biggest struggle so far was a hard packed but very rough and dusty track with a point and shoot layout. It took some tuning for sure.
06-05-2015, 11:54 AM
Another thing to note is Chassis flex. I now run the Lite chassis and it has noticeably more flex than the stock which I'll take that over the weight even in mod. My car had more flex than another AE drivers car with stock chassis and cut waterfall. When I put the cut waterfall in my car it was too much flex for my liking and with some BIG jumps and these tracks... Tweaked chassis in no time.
06-05-2015, 12:35 PM
Funny you mention rooster tails... There are a couple tracks here that old school and very nice places. One we run flip outs or double dees if its not too fluffy. The other track is goosebumps and only goosebumps! I got rid of my RM to focus solely on MM especially since the T5 is only mid.
This is where knowing how to setup your own cars is huge... Not mention a very very smooth throttle finger! You can't just go to ae's site and slap on a setup for this. I've worked through a few changes and this what made the biggest difference:
Increased droop front and rear by .5-1mm
Tapered Pistons in rear
Brass C and D blocks!!!
78 spur to move that motor back
Plastic hubs with .5 more toe
I even like the gullwing arms because they have a better feel on tracks with sweeping turns.
I was a skeptic for sure on mm working in these conditions. Not anymore! At first I tired the car with 0* hubs and 3.5 inner toe and it was a missle, too much rear bite.
The biggest struggle so far was a hard packed but very rough and dusty track with a point and shoot layout. It took some tuning for sure.
This is where knowing how to setup your own cars is huge... Not mention a very very smooth throttle finger! You can't just go to ae's site and slap on a setup for this. I've worked through a few changes and this what made the biggest difference:
Increased droop front and rear by .5-1mm
Tapered Pistons in rear
Brass C and D blocks!!!
78 spur to move that motor back
Plastic hubs with .5 more toe
I even like the gullwing arms because they have a better feel on tracks with sweeping turns.
I was a skeptic for sure on mm working in these conditions. Not anymore! At first I tired the car with 0* hubs and 3.5 inner toe and it was a missle, too much rear bite.
The biggest struggle so far was a hard packed but very rough and dusty track with a point and shoot layout. It took some tuning for sure.
06-05-2015, 12:43 PM
I have not personally run the Brass rear pieces. Because i never need more grip at my tracks. But, I know a couple guys that tried it. I was told the brass rear pieces defeat the purpose of a MM car, as they make it drive like a RM car. This was indoor on higher bite. I know a few outdoor guys add at least the brass C and a square pack to make the car better. I was mainly running 17.5 buggy and adding 100 grams of brass seemed silly. That was one of the main reasons I ditched the 22 platform. I am very sure you are correct about the rear brass making the car better. I guess when I think about the cars, I think about how the car comes out of the box. The Lite car makes it a much better car out of the box for stock. But the team MM out of the box felt really weak outdoors to me. I always felt that out of the box, the RM car was better outdoors. I guess if you thrown enough mod/parts/upgrades and tuning at any car, you can get it to "work". If i ran MM outdoors, I would probably give the rear brass parts a go and just run mod.
For all the casual racers who don't want really tune and/or buy tuning options. I'd recommend the RM just because it's so easy.
06-05-2015, 12:46 PM
Pretty sure the brass c and d only adds 40g. I still run a short pack. I still haven't ran a 3 gear. I have one, just haven't had the time. To me it seems like it'd be a fail on lower grip outdoor but then again I was wrong about mm altogether working outdoor.
For all the casual racers who don't want really tune and/or buy tuning options. I'd recommend the RM just because it's so easy.
For all the casual racers who don't want really tune and/or buy tuning options. I'd recommend the RM just because it's so easy.
06-05-2015, 12:51 PM
We have a local kid in the region that's pretty quick, he was running the xfactory chassis and square pack. He's quick with it. This was in the blown out hard packed dusty point and shoot track.
06-05-2015, 01:01 PM
Yeah, if I was to run outdoors again and stayed with MM, I would probably look into the XF chassis. But, I have a hard time recommending MM with $200 in upgrades to a new driver on a budget. I can spend the money if I need to. However, I dont expect others to do that. So when I critique cars, I normally do it as the come out of the box. I ditched stock buggy because of all the crap involved. It was getting silly.
06-05-2015, 03:05 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
How are you following the Worlds Warm Up and where did you see these photos? I've Google'd a few searches but did not find photos of anything like you described. (Sorry if it is someplace obvious, been a long week at work....)
06-05-2015, 03:38 PM
The xfactory chassis needs certain things to make work. The light weight is cool, but the flex and where it flexes is not in the testing I've done. YRMV
Last edited by Socket; 06-05-2015 at 03:50 PM.
06-05-2015, 04:22 PM
06-05-2015, 04:29 PM