Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Take your ballstud and chuck each one in your dremel as you build them. Turn the dremel to high, and go until the ballstud gets hot. Then use a pair of pliers to slightly pinch the ball cup when it's hot. This won't mar the ballcup, and the ballstud will fit perfect.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I know they all look the same.. But what the heck, here is a couple of photos of my Lite I finally finished. I try really hard to make my installs look clean, and I try my best painting the bodies considering I use rattle cans.
My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:
I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.
Anyway, here is a couple photos:
My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:
- Shock pistons needed a little shimming to keep the pistons tight.
- If you don't buy the optional set screws, there is a bit of slop in the lower control arms at the hinge pins. I originally shimmed this, but eventually got set screws for the front and aluminum hubs in the rear.
- 2 Ballstups were missing the hex head - they were just rounded. Speaking of ballstuds the aluminum hubs should come with ballstuds, they require a different length ballstud than what comes with the kit. Just one more thing to order.
- I wish AE had better quality control over their anodizing.
- I am tickled pink to finally have an AE car and be able to use my metric tools!
- Shocks felt Kyosho-smooth.
- Smooth and fun build, the usual great AE directions.
I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.
Anyway, here is a couple photos:
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Im having some setup issues, whenever i get on the brakes my car wants to dart quickley to the left instead of stopping straight, I thought it was because my brakes were too high but even if I turn them down same result? is this an issue with suspension or droop?
Funny thing.......one of our fastest drivers at sdrc in san diego was using a flysky and dominating in any class he raced. recently saw him with an mt4 but was pretty cool seeing him beat the poop out of the fast guys with a flysky.
I use the MIP transmission, and love it.
To another, that's stupid expensive and not worth it at all.
I wanted to buy a new kit, and build a new setup from ground up. I race 2-3 times a week, and feel like I am rather hard on equipment because some in indoors and some is outdoors.
Instead of buying a new kit, these shock bodies and shock shafts were timed perfectly, so I went with piecing together and rebuilding the needed parts on my kit with the new shocks.
If you're in the D, C, or B main, the new shocks won't get you to the A main. They're not a magical setup, they won't win you races.
Do they provide a new piece to upgrade and personalize your car? Yes.
Is kashima coating badass? Yes
Do you need these to win? No.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Thank you for the compliment. The funny thing about the FlySky stuff. I have been running a Futaba 3PM-X for about 6 years. I bought the FlySky for a beach basher car of mine and started to like it. The menus kind of suck so I didn't think too much of it at first for use other than a toy car. After a while I started getting used to it and I have found over time that I liked it better than my Futaba radio so I started plopping it in my race buggies. I held on to the Futaba for a few months in case I wanted to roll back, but just recently sold it. I know it isn't the radio of choice for guys who race at a higher level, but for me (for now) I actually like it. It is light, responsive enough, and feels right in my hands.
To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
The one welcome addition on the shocks will be the new shafts, they are getting rid of the e-clips, the pistons will now be screwed to the shafts. Tunnerman one of AE's offroad engineers was at our track this past weekend and had some with him
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Thank you for the compliment. The funny thing about the FlySky stuff. I have been running a Futaba 3PM-X for about 6 years. I bought the FlySky for a beach basher car of mine and started to like it. The menus kind of suck so I didn't think too much of it at first for use other than a toy car. After a while I started getting used to it and I have found over time that I liked it better than my Futaba radio so I started plopping it in my race buggies. I held on to the Futaba for a few months in case I wanted to roll back, but just recently sold it. I know it isn't the radio of choice for guys who race at a higher level, but for me (for now) I actually like it. It is light, responsive enough, and feels right in my hands.
To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
1. One shock losing pressure faster than the other.
2. One bearing gritty and slowing down faster than the other.
3. Rear tires have uneven tread causing one to grip faster than the other
4. If you have a ball diff one side could have less lubrication causing slippage unevenly on one side. Only noticeable on short sharp stops.
In my experience I've always experienced some level of this but the reality is that in practice I've never braked that short and sharp (to require a direct stop) in an actual race for it to be a a noticeable distraction.
All the best
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
hey guys
I'm already running a B5M, and really like it, so I was thinking of buying another one.
My question is though, do I go Factory Lite or not??
likely the hottest motor I'll be running is 10.5
thoughts?
thanks !
I'm already running a B5M, and really like it, so I was thinking of buying another one.
My question is though, do I go Factory Lite or not??
likely the hottest motor I'll be running is 10.5
thoughts?
thanks !