Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

Look at the B5m FL instruction manual.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...000_Manual.pdf

KAWIDAD

iTrader: (24)

Can the Schelle d-mount be used with the +4 c-mount?

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Unfortunately it cannot since it does not support the +4mm position.

KAWIDAD

iTrader: (24)

Thanks,so only option is the FT d-mount?

Thomas PA

It's very adjustable! Just with electronics and battery positions you can change it at least 5%. Even more with aluminum or brass parts, and with just weight. Full size or low-profile servo. Shorty, saddle, or square battery. Even clay tires way much more than super-softs. So it really depends. I'd say it can be anywhere from 57 to 67 percent on the rear with minor adjustments.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

The FT D or Exotek D mount.

tsasak

iTrader: (2)

What's your thoughts on running the b5m lite in mod class + or -'s ? I was thinking on trying a new brand out for mod buggy I'm running tlr now.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

It would work just fine.

ignishen

Different pitch to the tooth.

roundguy

iTrader: (2)

Never seen front forks that weren't chrome. Those should wear a lot more than RC shocks.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

There's a few different flavors. (You're looking at the fork lowers/the uppers are Kashima coated)

JeepnMike

iTrader: (17)

I know they all look the same.. But what the heck, here is a couple of photos of my Lite I finally finished. I try really hard to make my installs look clean, and I try my best painting the bodies considering I use rattle cans.

My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:

• Shock pistons needed a little shimming to keep the pistons tight.
• If you don't buy the optional set screws, there is a bit of slop in the lower control arms at the hinge pins. I originally shimmed this, but eventually got set screws for the front and aluminum hubs in the rear.
• 2 Ballstups were missing the hex head - they were just rounded. Speaking of ballstuds the aluminum hubs should come with ballstuds, they require a different length ballstud than what comes with the kit. Just one more thing to order.
• I wish AE had better quality control over their anodizing.
• I am tickled pink to finally have an AE car and be able to use my metric tools!
• Shocks felt Kyosho-smooth.
• Smooth and fun build, the usual great AE directions.

I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.

Anyway, here is a couple photos:

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info. never thought about that. thought it was the hole diameter.

Jpdanger

Looks great and nice job using the rattle cans. Now take a lighter to the spring color tubing and shrink those!

I don't know what your track is like, but mine is high traction indoor clay and I hated the Proline Electrons! Dirt Webs are great, but I love AKA Chain Links.

JeepnMike

iTrader: (17)

Thanks! And thanks for the reminder about the shrink tubing on the springs. I still need to break in the diff and set the camber as well. It is amazing how I would have likely had this done in a day or two back in the day when I was single with no kids. Married with kids, building a car takes an eternity

I am going to try to get to TRCR this Thursday if I can. I usually get there around 11 (when the track is a lot slicker than I would like) and spend the entire day there and leave right around the time the track has good bite in it. It isn't racing, but I get my fix!