Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Master
I've been looking, for 17.5 blinky, what is the Optimum FDR I should be shooting for? I'm running a novak balistic 17.5 with 35 degrees on end bell. currently 69t spur, and 31t pinion. which is FDR of 5.78. After a 5 mnute race, I came off at 89 degrees, so I have room to go.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Shocks issues
I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
Last edited by Cichlid RC; 04-29-2015 at 01:56 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
If you bought a B5M car, and it came with the B5M arms and the B5M shock tower, it came with the right parts. If it did not come with a B5 tower, that would be expected as you didn't buy a B5.
If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.
If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.
Purchased the lite Kit. Thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/team-as...c91493/p275243
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
are you trying to reuse the original o-rings that have swelled since first use?
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
I've been looking, for 17.5 blinky, what is the Optimum FDR I should be shooting for? I'm running a novak balistic 17.5 with 35 degrees on end bell. currently 69t spur, and 31t pinion. which is FDR of 5.78. After a 5 mnute race, I came off at 89 degrees, so I have room to go.
Knowing that you come off at 89 degrees after your run is nice because you didn't burn up the motor. Now you can try going up or down and checking your lap times then check your temperature. Eventually you will end up finding out that you went to far up or down when your lap times no longer drop.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
You really shouldn't be gearing for heat but rather lap times. I can't remember the last time I won an a-mail because my motor temp was lower/hotter than anyone else.
Knowing that you come off at 89 degrees after your run is nice because you didn't burn up the motor. Now you can try going up or down and checking your lap times then check your temperature. Eventually you will end up finding out that you went to far up or down when your lap times no longer drop.
Knowing that you come off at 89 degrees after your run is nice because you didn't burn up the motor. Now you can try going up or down and checking your lap times then check your temperature. Eventually you will end up finding out that you went to far up or down when your lap times no longer drop.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
FDR is a round about #. Motors behave differently and not all the manufacturers make them them same. You need to gear for max efficiency. An electric motor will usually make the most power when its running at peak efficiency. Gearing, timing, and temp all need to be considered together.....but you don't necessarily need to add timing or gear taller if your temps are low. Temp is secondary unless your running too hot.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
Why do x-rings need to soak in oil before installing?
Do you use green slime on x-rings?
Do you use green slime on x-rings?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I don't do either. All I do is put a few drops of oil in the shock before I actually install the shaft & piston. I do that to make sure the threaded part of the shock shaft doesn't somehow rip/tear the seals. The AE X Rings look identical to the Kyoshos. Anyway, I have literally never had a pair of either wear out, or leak, and I guess I'm not breaking them in properly. Imagine how good they'd be if I prepped them right!
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
You shouldn't have to do that. Something is wrong. Did you maybe add too many or the wrong spacers in the cartridge? Do you maybe have one or both of the hat bushings in the wrong way. There should be a little bit of friction but not very much and you should be able to tighten the retaining cap all the way.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
I am going to set my pride aside and ask a majorly dumb question here.. I am in the middle of building my new Lite and am installing the rear A-arms. I am building it per the pictures in the manual, but the L control arm is on the right and vice versa for the right side. They look almost un-naturally forward swept which may be by design. I think I am just being thrown off by them appearing reversed. I put on my dunce cap and looked at photos from AE and they seem pretty swept forward there too.
Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?
Thanks for any replies!
Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?
Thanks for any replies!
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I am going to set my pride aside and ask a majorly dumb question here.. I am in the middle of building my new Lite and am installing the rear A-arms. I am building it per the pictures in the manual, but the L control arm is on the right and vice versa for the right side. They look almost un-naturally forward swept which may be by design. I think I am just being thrown off by them appearing reversed. I put on my dunce cap and looked at photos from AE and they seem pretty swept forward there too.
Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?
Thanks for any replies!
Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?
Thanks for any replies!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)