Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I only have AE & Kyosho cars so my stock of comparison parts is limited....I took a Kyosho pucks diff and put it in the AE 3 gear. The Kyosho outdrives are longer/wider (bones exactly the same) and would work but the spacing is different in terms where the outdrive bearing sits on the outdrive. There's a slight chance that if I used the Kyosho outdrives on an AE diff gear that it might work. Just to qualify what I mean, an AE diff gear is probably 2 mm thicker. Anyway, I decided that it was too much work for me so I put the stock plastic C & D mounts back on for now. Since my Lite is supposed to be light I decided to abandon the +4 idea for now. I guess it works out because the aluminum c & d mounts weigh more than the plastic pieces anyway. After I get the car sorted out I'll mock up the Kyosho outdrives in a spare tranny and see what happens.
Here is my Factory Lite build so far. Just need to make the turnbuckles up and build the shocks for the chassis before electronics install. No Wheels and tires for a week or so, gotta scrape up the money.
Pretty nice build process, no missing parts, no quality issues noticed.
Pretty nice build process, no missing parts, no quality issues noticed.
I only have AE & Kyosho cars so my stock of comparison parts is limited....I took a Kyosho pucks diff and put it in the AE 3 gear. The Kyosho outdrives are longer/wider (bones exactly the same) and would work but the spacing is different in terms where the outdrive bearing sits on the outdrive. There's a slight chance that if I used the Kyosho outdrives on an AE diff gear that it might work. Just to qualify what I mean, an AE diff gear is probably 2 mm thicker. Anyway, I decided that it was too much work for me so I put the stock plastic C & D mounts back on for now. Since my Lite is supposed to be light I decided to abandon the +4 idea for now. I guess it works out because the aluminum c & d mounts weigh more than the plastic pieces anyway. After I get the car sorted out I'll mock up the Kyosho outdrives in a spare tranny and see what happens.
MIP makes the correct bones you need for the +4 mount setup....!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
Any idea if the b5m factory lite is suitable for loose bumpy tracks?
I've driven my friend's b5m on the same track and it handles very well in stock settings. I really like the hopped up parts of the factory lite, but just wondering if it will handle similarly or better than the b5m on such a track.
I've driven my friend's b5m on the same track and it handles very well in stock settings. I really like the hopped up parts of the factory lite, but just wondering if it will handle similarly or better than the b5m on such a track.
How does the stock setup of the Factory Lite compared to the original B5M? Or what differences have people been noticing so far? All I changed from my stock B5M was the shock pistons, otherwise, very happy with the way it felt.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I think that I need a new scale. Per my scale, my Lite with Ti upper screws, Ti ball studs, pucks, slipper eliminator, KO one10 servo, 2.4 wheels, CF strap, aluminum wheel nuts, and a Trackpower 90c 3250mah lipo, hobbywing 3.1 & Bandit motor weighs 1438 grams (minus wing and transponder). I have another car that is similar but it has a hand milled chassis and it was 1520 with a 4400mah SMC lipo. Is that possible? I might have to drive to Lowes and buy another scale....I'm going to do that right now.
Last edited by QDRHRSE; 04-25-2015 at 04:57 PM.
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Really loving the mid motor compared to the RM I jus switched from, can drive it so much harder (more like a 4x4)