137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
02-27-2015, 10:04 PM
I just finished the rebuild for racing tomorrow. And this thing feels butter smooth as I expected.hopefully some minor adjustments for track feel and it will be good to go for a long while.
02-27-2015, 10:12 PM
Going to OCRC tomorrow with the intention of running 3 first few packs with the MM 3 gear and (unless i am suddenly 1.5 seconds a lap faster than i was last time out)
then moving everything over to the RM. At some point ill probably convert the MM to the T5 anyway. In any case has anyone ever tried running the sam if not heavier oil in the back? Every set up i can recall always has the rear 2.5- 5 wt lower. It just seem
ems like the heaviest art of the car should have the heavier oil. Why does no one do this? Im going to start with 30 weight with green up front and 30 weight with white in the back and then g from there.Il let you know how it goes. Looking forward to a day of wrenching.
then moving everything over to the RM. At some point ill probably convert the MM to the T5 anyway. In any case has anyone ever tried running the sam if not heavier oil in the back? Every set up i can recall always has the rear 2.5- 5 wt lower. It just seem
ems like the heaviest art of the car should have the heavier oil. Why does no one do this? Im going to start with 30 weight with green up front and 30 weight with white in the back and then g from there.Il let you know how it goes. Looking forward to a day of wrenching.
02-27-2015, 11:25 PM
Let me start by saying sorry if this has been answered but i dont feel like searching through 800 pages. I want to run a setup like Hartsons where the battery brace is removed and i can run the esc and receiver in the center of the car. My question is how does the battery stay in place with no mounting bracket since the brace is removed? Is it just wedged between the esc and rear brace?
Here's an old pic when I first got it...
02-27-2015, 11:43 PM
Going to OCRC tomorrow with the intention of running 3 first few packs with the MM 3 gear and (unless i am suddenly 1.5 seconds a lap faster than i was last time out)
then moving everything over to the RM. At some point ill probably convert the MM to the T5 anyway. In any case has anyone ever tried running the sam if not heavier oil in the back? Every set up i can recall always has the rear 2.5- 5 wt lower. It just seem
ems like the heaviest art of the car should have the heavier oil. Why does no one do this? Im going to start with 30 weight with green up front and 30 weight with white in the back and then g from there.Il let you know how it goes. Looking forward to a day of wrenching.
then moving everything over to the RM. At some point ill probably convert the MM to the T5 anyway. In any case has anyone ever tried running the sam if not heavier oil in the back? Every set up i can recall always has the rear 2.5- 5 wt lower. It just seem
ems like the heaviest art of the car should have the heavier oil. Why does no one do this? Im going to start with 30 weight with green up front and 30 weight with white in the back and then g from there.Il let you know how it goes. Looking forward to a day of wrenching.
02-28-2015, 12:22 AM
I always felt the AE servo horns splines were molded too tight. I always use in general an aluminum horn that fits nicely and just feel that if you need to pull off the horn and make adjustments it is easier during initial setup with your radio.
02-28-2015, 04:31 AM
The B5M is generally not twitchy, in fact, its super stable. If your car is twitchy its 100% a set up issue. My only recommendation is go back to stock and go from there. The box set up is pretty good.
When I hear about all of these alternate set up types I honestly question how much faster, if it all, the changes make most guys. The best example was our dear friend Wild Cherry. He had a a host of changes that the "Team guys" were making every week and it was worth 0 tenths for him but his car felt better every week. I really think the best way to keep getting better is to practice and keep your car well maintained. I'm not a big believer in constantly changing things around. Once you have a decent set up I think you should just try to run some laps.
As some have mentioned, the factory manual does a pretty decent job of explaining what certain things do...I recommend if your asking a lot of questions that you look at the manual. Going on AEs website and copying Cav's latest set up is only going to work for you if you drive like he does....or as fast.
When I hear about all of these alternate set up types I honestly question how much faster, if it all, the changes make most guys. The best example was our dear friend Wild Cherry. He had a a host of changes that the "Team guys" were making every week and it was worth 0 tenths for him but his car felt better every week. I really think the best way to keep getting better is to practice and keep your car well maintained. I'm not a big believer in constantly changing things around. Once you have a decent set up I think you should just try to run some laps.
As some have mentioned, the factory manual does a pretty decent job of explaining what certain things do...I recommend if your asking a lot of questions that you look at the manual. Going on AEs website and copying Cav's latest set up is only going to work for you if you drive like he does....or as fast.
I agree with this....Been racing since 96, esp big in nitro touring sedan. One thing I have learned over the years is build a neutral set-up...concentrate on tires and then shock springs, and learn to drive your car under any conditions......I can't tell you how many times I would nap in between heats while others were tearing apart cars, changing this, changing that.....Never made any sense to me. Track conditions change by the hour sometimes so whats the sense of constantly changing set-ups.....
02-28-2015, 05:42 AM
Yep. Sounds about the same here. I bought this car used 5 weeks ago. Just now had time to go through the car and find out the setup plus redo the diff. My B5-R still has the same diff from October '14 and feels good.
I use an old outdrive, 600 sandpaper, and do several figure 8's to get a crosshatch on the rings for traction.
I've never mic'd the rings but actually had that thought tonight.
I use an old outdrive, 600 sandpaper, and do several figure 8's to get a crosshatch on the rings for traction.
I've never mic'd the rings but actually had that thought tonight.
02-28-2015, 06:52 AM
02-28-2015, 07:23 AM
Using a gearing that moves the motor as far forward as possible was the biggest help in the rear car.
02-28-2015, 07:29 AM
Im running the motor all the way forward as well (66/32) I am also running a square pack forward. Did you run the MM rear arms? Last time around that was what seem to help the most.
02-28-2015, 07:42 AM
I quit running that car at the end of the summer. Never tried the mid rear arms. I ran the gull front arms and tower with 3mm trailing.
02-28-2015, 09:50 AM
Anyone try the new FT +4mm aluminum arm mount? Is it worth the upgrade?
02-28-2015, 09:58 AM
This should prove to be a good tuning option when on high grip and carpet and will some stability to the car.
02-28-2015, 12:35 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
When you say stability, does that translate to increased resistance to traction rolling?
02-28-2015, 12:40 PM
Glad to see others are sanding the diff rings. Sometimes I wonder if I'm doing something wrong when people at the track look at me weird for wasting the time to sand the rings. Like Razathorn said, sometimes the new rings have something on them, or imperfections on the surface.