Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Can you please publish these statics, all of the pertinent information about your testing process and the sample size haha. I hate hate hate hate hate the AE plastic horns. When I use plastic, I use the tlr horn. When I use aluminum, I use the tlr horn Also, none of my servos have ever failed do to the alum servo horn. So that mean they never ever break servos. I like my statisics better.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Can you please publish these statics, all of the pertinent information about your testing process and the sample size haha. I hate hate hate hate hate the AE plastic horns. When I use plastic, I use the tlr horn. When I use aluminum, I use the tlr horn Also, none of my servos have ever failed do to the alum servo horn. So that mean they never ever break servos. I like my statisics better.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they ....suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the .... out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.
Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-27-2015 at 01:21 PM. Reason: language
Tech Champion
iTrader: (107)
wow...
Never stripped one stock Associated servo horn in the past 12 years. I never need to take it off really either. I run the Ko RSX response servos and not one problem.
Never stripped one stock Associated servo horn in the past 12 years. I never need to take it off really either. I run the Ko RSX response servos and not one problem.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they fing suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the shit out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.
fyi, I try to keep TLR parts OFF my AE rides............
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
(and watch the language please)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
or the drag link is bound up working the ballstud in and out..
Twitchy
many of the changes I have made in the last 10 months may not have effected my hot lap much, but it did make the car easier to drive and thus most consistent and I make less errors. And yes the kit setup is not bad. When the car is "twitchy", that normally means the wrong tires or the shock package is too soft and the car is pitching all over the place. IMO, the gulwings can give the car a feel of twitchyness. When I use gulwings, I normally go up in springs and oil in the front to calm it down. But yes, tritchy is normally a tuning/tire issue with the B5 series.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
I broke a servo horn on my rc10t2.