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Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
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Old 02-14-2015, 03:49 PM
  #11626  
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Originally Posted by lbckevin
Read the first post in this thread for the answer.
I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:10 PM
  #11627  
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Originally Posted by iScream
I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
Well I believe the crush washers are the reason for the bearings becoming gritty after that short time. They were originally too narrow and they wouldn't function properly, which caused the bearings to become gritty.

As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:17 PM
  #11628  
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Originally Posted by iScream
I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
It's in the Q&A section as are many common questions.

Q: I'm getting binding/grinding in my front wheel bearings, how can I fix this issue?
A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change (to my knowledge). To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution, honestly).
Originally Posted by mschumi101
As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:22 PM
  #11629  
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...battery_brace/

This is the Factory RC AE B5m Carbon Fiber Shorty Brace with adjustable battery stop blocks. This brace replaces the stock plastic battery retainer bracket and allows you to use the adjustable battery stop instead of foam blocks. This brace allows you to run the battery shifted forward or rearward. Simply install the battery stop on either side, and adjust to your packs length to remove any slack. Remove a battery stop to allow full rearward or full forward positioning in the car. Fitment is snug and prevents the battery from shifting. This brace is designed to be narrow allowing for additional chassis flex in the car. Battery brace is made from 3mm Carbon Fiber and your choice of Heavy Duty Carbon Steel screws or Titanium Screws. Upgrade to Factory RC!






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Old 02-14-2015, 05:16 PM
  #11630  
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Originally Posted by mschumi101
Which diff shims are you buying? I have my 3 gear on the way, but just had the gear cover come in off backorder, so I can add some shims to the order.
I would also like to know where you got the shims
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:17 PM
  #11631  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
It's in the Q&A section as are many common questions.
Sure, I saw the question and answer, which you modified in your "quote".

I should have asked my real question more clearly though and shouldn't have replied back while my wife was standing in front of me waiting to leave for dinner.

But mschumi101 answered it pretty well.
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:45 PM
  #11632  
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Originally Posted by iScream
Sure, I saw the question and answer, which you modified in your "quote".

I should have asked my real question more clearly though and shouldn't have replied back while my wife was standing in front of me waiting to leave for dinner.

But mschumi101 answered it pretty well.
the answer is everywhere. in short, the kit bearing suck and the front spindles and insert suck. I am using ceramic bearings in one of my cars and is had been smooth for months. well about a year now. all my non ceramics get crunchy after a month or so.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:44 PM
  #11633  
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I broke my stock battery strap tonight at track...looking to upgrade and was considering the Schelle one...anyone running that one? Is that the best one?
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:48 PM
  #11634  
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I loke the exotek or plan b racing strap.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:07 PM
  #11635  
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Originally Posted by barry1me
I broke my stock battery strap tonight at track...looking to upgrade and was considering the Schelle one...anyone running that one? Is that the best one?
I run the Schelle, like that it goes around my motor/ESC wires a little better.
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:03 AM
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I like that battery brace. Gotta see if the LHS can get that.
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:13 AM
  #11637  
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Originally Posted by barry1me
I broke my stock battery strap tonight at track...looking to upgrade and was considering the Schelle one...anyone running that one? Is that the best one?
How did you manage to break a battery strap?
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:21 AM
  #11638  
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This ought to be entertaining..
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:25 AM
  #11639  
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My son ran an entire race with the strap in place but the hold down nuts not there. I'm more surprised that he DIDN'T break the brace.
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:39 AM
  #11640  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
I run the Schelle, like that it goes around my motor/ESC wires a little better.
the schelle does NOT have a back stop. if you move the pack forward, you will need foams. Poorly thought out. If you want an adjustable strap, I would get the Plan B Racing strap. Otherwise, get the exotek.
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