shannow

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

I'm pretty happy with how the b5m behaves now on thick carpet but I'd like to know how can you gain rear grip in entry/breaking corner ? The rear snaps too early.
I'm having the theory that more anti squat would limit weight transfer while breaking. I've put in 3° toe in with 2° antisquat and would like to test the 3°toe in + 3° antisquat.
My idea is that as it's rwd the deceleration in governed by the rear wheel as the front is just free wheeling.
Therefore the force is more of a CG/rear anti squat geometry matter. more anti squat = a force more directed at the CG hence less weight transfer while accelerating but also less transfer while breaking. And more weight on the rear = more grip in entry corner under breaking.
Can you confirm or explain why this would be wrong ? And if possible how to gain rear grip in this situation.

My setup :
Front:
45wt 2x1.6piston std position
B5 arm with B5 shock tower
Red springs
25° kick up with 5° caster
0° toe with 1° camber
std ackerman
std camber link position with no shims (HRC)
Short wheelbase
Low profile cut staggers yellow schumacher tires
Rear
25wt 2x1.7piston
B5 rear arm
Green springs
3° toe in and 2°antisquat
1° camber
Std camber link position with no shims (HRC)
Shortest wheelbase
Ball diff
120g weight set behind battery (partialy around motor) with shorty rearwards.
Mini Pin yellow schumacher with medium foams.

Apart from the lack of breaking she's pretty much dialed to me I'm faster than the fastest 4wd at the club as it is.


Thank you very much in advance for your help

Jonathan

vito

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Sunday? Fresh layout!!!

suzukipro

iTrader: (33)

Does anyone make a 14mm rear hex that'll work on the B5 platform?

I'm trying to make use of my current stockpile of 14mm wheels/tires and a 14mm hex would expand my options of rear tires to use and save me some $$$ overall.

Thanks,

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

no idea. the current rear ones are +7mm offset. see if you can fine some hexes with the same offset that are 14mm and will fit the axles. my axle diameter is about 4.75mm.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You bet. You gonna come give me a run for my money?

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Typically more anti-squat will take away rear traction off power into a turn. I'd try going down to 1 degree instead of up to 3.

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

I'll cheer you on since my main will be before yours. LOL... fun none the less.. Breaking out the 3 gear and an undisclosed weight. 4th raceday since I recieved it in the first shipment back in the day... LOL. I actually enjoyed watching the kid run my B4.1.5 for the first time almost as much as me running this buggy... almost. See you Sunday..

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

Hi Jonathan,

Im not sure what the grip level of the carpet you are racing on is, but when I have raced on carpet it was high grip and I needed a lot of weight towards the front. Your setup is very rear biased (weight at the rear etc).

If you need to improve braking in a straight line (no cornering), then yes more weight at the rear will help. Reducing anti-squat helps a little, and going to a 3 gear transmission will also help (4 gears help acceleration traction but hurt braking traction). Loosening the slipper clutch can also make a big difference to brake control.

If you car is swinging around on corner entry, it can be due to having too much weight at the rear, causing a 'pendulum' effect. Have you tried taking the weight out of the back?

Ive also found that running a stiffer spring and anti-roll bar on the back will improve stability on higher grip tracks. Also make sure that your diff isnt too loose - its easy to unload the inner rear tyre on brake / corner entry, causing a sudden loss of braking and an unpredictable feel. The oil is also much softer than I have used on carpet. Ive normally run 32 wt / 1.6 hole pistons on the rear on carpet.

Hope this helps.

Ray

sanderson373

What diff fluid would you run on carpet or should I stay with ball diff

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

That all depends on the grip level... Ball diff is usually ok on carpet as long as its built and broken in properly

Moyanator609

iTrader: (4)

hello everyone. im new to the thread. i bought a original b5 rear and later converted to b5m(by the original owner) with the team associated b5-b5m coversion kit. is it now a regualar b5m? or what differs there? i compared my b5 to the b5m on AE site and looks identical. besides some additional factory team upgrades than mine has. looks all the same to me. do you guys know anyone that has done that. its was only done because the person bought the rear motor b5 because the b5m was not available at the time and im guessing he had money to spend on the conversion kit

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I converted one B5 to a mid and bought a b5m, both are the same, no worries.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

anybody know how much lighter the "lite" chassis is going to be compared to current chassis?

options: go with lite chassis and play with different batteries or keep regular chassis for lower cg across the car?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am curious as well. The SLRC chassis only saves 24grams and it is thinner all the way around. AE just added some milling. I was hoping for about 25g, but maybe not that much.