Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree138Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-21-2014, 08:59 AM
  #16621  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Whittier CA
Posts: 377
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cridd
I was looking for information on what the difference in new firmware / upgrade was but it doesn't show anywhere. Feels really slow and times confirmed. Last night was ugly, thought I had a 21.5. Going to drop back and check times. New to Orion so playing with it. Any luck with mod firmware in B5m or better to stick with stock firmware for stock?
Don't run the stock firmware as it is meant for touring car, stick with the mod firmware that came pre-installed on the Speedo. I got a stock setup from Joe Pillars the Team Manager for Orion that he recommended if you will not be running boost or timing. It's the setup that Cav and a few other Team Drivers used at this year's Stock Nationals at OC/RC. All you do is use profile 4 under running mode
- forward/brake/-zero timing
On the DRRS punch setting
- set it to 9
Everything else you leave as is.
flintTRDTC is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 09:29 AM
  #16622  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 312
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
The top shaft bearings dont always seat the best. use the topshaft and try to press them into place.
The weird thing about it is that it is smooth all the way around except for a couple tight spots for like to or three "clicks" on the spur gear.

So I guess what I am say is that if you turn the spur really slow, it is smooth until you hit the spot where there are two or three spots (I would say like clicks or teeth on the spur) where it is not smooth.

If you grab the slipper clutch nut and spin it from there, it is smooth and you can barely feel the "clicks" at all... Almost like there is a mesh of the geras that needs to be broken in.

It is not the whole rotation of the spur that is "clicky" at all, just that one little spot in the system...

Only way I could explain it. I am a rookie!!

Thanks!
sstriano is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 09:32 AM
  #16623  
Tech Adept
 
roadblock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Lindenhurst, NY
Posts: 142
Default Weight difference between B5 and B5M

Is there a big difference in weight between the B5 and the B5M? Just picked up a B5 and noted how light it is compared to my Schumacher SV2 and was wondering if the B5M was heavier with the aluminum chassis.

Running 17.5, the SV2 is a bit too heavy to make short run up jumps. Rotates awesome and is very planted but needs more motor to make it shine.
roadblock is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:01 AM
  #16624  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Graham11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,044
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Guys, how do I stop my rear drive cups from hitting the cva driveshafts and breaking them? Limiters inside the shocks or limiter above eyelet to stop up travel?
Graham11 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:18 AM
  #16625  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
huzzler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hemet
Posts: 704
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sstriano
The weird thing about it is that it is smooth all the way around except for a couple tight spots for like to or three "clicks" on the spur gear.

So I guess what I am say is that if you turn the spur really slow, it is smooth until you hit the spot where there are two or three spots (I would say like clicks or teeth on the spur) where it is not smooth.

If you grab the slipper clutch nut and spin it from there, it is smooth and you can barely feel the "clicks" at all... Almost like there is a mesh of the geras that needs to be broken in.

It is not the whole rotation of the spur that is "clicky" at all, just that one little spot in the system...

Only way I could explain it. I am a rookie!!

Thanks!
Pretty normal for a stock spur. They aren't perfectly round. The way I set the mesh with a gear like that is to find the "high" spot and set the mesh there. If you get an aftermarket spur like a Jconcepts they are machined and are more precise.
huzzler is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:21 AM
  #16626  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
huzzler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hemet
Posts: 704
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Graham11
Guys, how do I stop my rear drive cups from hitting the cva driveshafts and breaking them? Limiters inside the shocks or limiter above eyelet to stop up travel?
Depends. Are they hitting when compressed? Then limiters above the eyelet. If they are binding when lifted in the air then limiters IN the shock.
huzzler is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:29 AM
  #16627  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Graham11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,044
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by huzzler
Depends. Are they hitting when compressed? Then limiters above the eyelet. If they are binding when lifted in the air then limiters IN the shock.
Haha Thanks I knew the options and when to use them haha,the thing is that I'm not certain when they are hitting, was hoping someone else had encountered the issue so I wasn't guessing.
Graham11 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:47 AM
  #16628  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

So correct me if im wrong but you are breaking the outdrive? If so i have never heard of that and when are they breaking? After a cartwheel in the sweeper or just landing off a double or something?
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 11:05 AM
  #16629  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
 
racer1812's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,488
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by huzzler
Pretty normal for a stock spur. They aren't perfectly round. The way I set the mesh with a gear like that is to find the "high" spot and set the mesh there. If you get an aftermarket spur like a Jconcepts they are machined and are more precise.
You would be perfectly correct. IF the guy you quoted was talking about his pinion/spur gear mesh. He's not, he's talking about the gears IN the tranny. Which IMO simply need to break in.
racer1812 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 11:09 AM
  #16630  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
huzzler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hemet
Posts: 704
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Graham11
Haha Thanks I knew the options and when to use them haha,the thing is that I'm not certain when they are hitting, was hoping someone else had encountered the issue so I wasn't guessing.
Sounded to me like you were asking.
"Guys, how do I stop my rear drive cups from hitting the cva driveshafts and breaking them? Limiters inside the shocks or limiter above eyelet to stop up travel?"
Anyway never had that problem but I do have scrape marks on the shafts though. Most likely they are hitting on the way up. Probably binding when landing kind of sideways off a jump. It will fully compress the shock and even flex the a arm a bit. If you are consistently having this problem I don't see why a 1mm spacer or two would hurt.
huzzler is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 11:11 AM
  #16631  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
huzzler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hemet
Posts: 704
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by racer1812
You would be perfectly correct. IF the guy you quoted was talking about his pinion/spur gear mesh. He's not, he's talking about the gears IN the tranny. Which IMO simply need to break in.
Ha I thought he was talking about pinion/spur mesh.
huzzler is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 11:46 AM
  #16632  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Graham11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,044
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Skeeter36
So correct me if im wrong but you are breaking the outdrive? If so i have never heard of that and when are they breaking? After a cartwheel in the sweeper or just landing off a double or something?
No, I'm breaking driveshafts. And no it's not after catastrophic crashes. On my drive shafts you can see what I can only analogize to the marks of an axe on a tree, slowly overtime it looks as tho the edge of the out drive cup is hitting the shaft and eventually it's hit so many times it breaks, I'd take a pic but it's on in my car at the moment.
Graham11 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 11:53 AM
  #16633  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

are you using gear diffs?
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 12:02 PM
  #16634  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: newcastle,wa
Posts: 86
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

would a fully upgraded b4.1 still be able to compete with the b5m? or time to hang up the b4.1 and move on?
NewbieRacer30 is offline  
Old 12-21-2014, 12:19 PM
  #16635  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Graham11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,044
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
are you using gear diffs?
Yes sir
Graham11 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.