mel_russ615

iTrader: (3)

when running the aluminum c-block do i have to run the aluminum d-block together or can i run the plastic d-block? i've gotten two different answers to this question. thanks

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you can run any combo you want.

TonyWest

iTrader: (50)

Are there any new tips guys are coming up with for ultra low grip tracks.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Put the motor in the rear haha. Have you tried the Brass C Block?

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

There's a lot of things you can do for a low grip set up as Wildcat said get the brass 20 gram c block run the shorty pack all the way back, put the rear shocks all the way in on the tower, run a green rear spring, lighter oils, if you get the brass or aluminum c block you can run 3.5 degrees of toe and then put the .5 degree inserts in your hubs to get 4 degrees of total toe, and run the b5r rear arms and push the hubs all the way forward those are just a few things you can do to get more grip for a low grip track and it should have just as much grip as a rear motor car!

heinen81

I am on my third week of running my B5M with a 17.5 setup, at an indoor medium length track that starts out tacky, and after 80+ entries and 6 hours, starts to develop a layer of dust, even when the track is blown off between rounds.After the first week I thought... crap, i ordered the wrong configuration, this Mid motor sucks. On throttle out of the corner, I couldn't keep the rear wheels under me for the life of it.

I also looked at the brass pieces and thought "well thats dumb, because if the track is tacky to start, you have to pull everything apart to switch hangers back and forth as the track changes" I actually put the 30* block in front to assist in steering, and drilled and tapped the rear shock tower for a 4mm screw, and made a block of weight to add as the night wore on and the track went away. Car stuck like glue, no more feathering throttle and ddrs punch is back at 90%. night and day difference. The only other thing i did to make it work, was i also ran Sticky Kicks Red. Traction is no longer an issue.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

What tires are you running in the rear? Compound? We have had something similar happen here, but we normally run clay tires. I was planning to swap to a SS tire when the water schedule does not favor Clay tires as much

heinen81

I have been running the Barcode Greens all around. Was going to try electrons when the track developed dust, but don't see a need to now. Would like to try dirt webz coming up in one of these weeks as well.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I always felt like Proline M4 was softer and had more traction than JC Green tires. IMO, M4 is the stickiest SS tire from the Major brands. I have not tried Sweep, VPRO and some of the others.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Maybe try some Black barcodes.

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Our tracks sound very similar... Let me just say I have no brass anywhere on my car and I don't need it even when the track dries out.

The majority of it is tires and just about the only tire I run there is Clay Electrons bc they are even better when the track dries out but if they become to slick I will switch to m4 electrons and try putting your shocks all the way in on the rear shock tower, run 0 ball stud washer on the rear camber block and if you run the aluminum hubs run them in the back inside hole(closest to the etching) with a 1 mm ball stud washer (which is supposed to be comparable to the B in the down position on the stock hubs) and you can also try running a green rear spring but you really shouldn't need weight in these cars unless your running on a low bite track.

Also do you have the b5r rear arms on?

heinen81

thanks! thanks to your prior advice, I did move the shocks in to inner hole, moved rear bearing hubs forward, however stayed with the B5M arms to this point. Other than experiment with tires,i am afraid to structurally change anything else... she sticks good now! lol

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Ya you're welcome! I love the shocks in the inner hole it was probably the single best change I ever made to my car gave me a lot more side bite! Also I would say that for the track you an I run on the b5r rear arms are a must! So when you get a chance deff pick some up and if they have to much grip in the middle position you can always move them all the way back and you'll still be +1 from the b5M rear arms.

WolfAusti

iTrader: (38)

Is there a B5 RS that I missed somehow? Avid has a link to parts for it on their website. See under "Related Vehicles"

BLKHAWK

iTrader: (22)

I run the A hub down with no shim at the inner ball stud, stock springs with 1.6 pistons and a 1mm shim under the front inner ballstud instead of the 2mm

24mm ride height

3mm trailing

This will give you all the steering You could ever want.