Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#7577
Practice laps!
After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
#7578
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
#7579
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
#7581
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
#7582
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Then you've missed a lot, including the reason for his sarcasm. Water under the bridge at this point my friend.
#7583
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
What's funny is I don't rotate my fronts. Don't know why, nobody told me not to, I just don't. Now which one of us is wrong? Ready for a super mod throw down?
#7586
Start with this rear end.
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
Biggest thing i found for track like that was loosening slipper off a couple turns as well.
#7587
The B5M stock seems really soft to me out of the box. My car isn't very good on our high grip indoor clay track with weight removed (need to try a shorty though). I just picked up a B5R to try also.
#7588
So what does the 4mm trailing axle do over the 3?
I'm currently running 3 forward, if I put the 4 in what can I expect?
I'm currently running 3 forward, if I put the 4 in what can I expect?
#7589
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Front wheel caster or trail: too little
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
From http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehic...d_Effect_Guide
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
From http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehic...d_Effect_Guide
#7590
Anyone got any recommendations for running on carpet? The car was pretty decent out of the box. Running a speed passion reventon R and 13.5 SP motor.