Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
|
|||
Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html
Wish me luck,
jB
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Here it is...
I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires. Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.
I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires. Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.
ok, I just looked at my car. I remember my issue. I bought the esc used and the guy shortened the cap wires. I will see about taking the case off the caps and maybe soldering up some new wires from the cap to the esc. I think 16-20awg should be good.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
ok, I have tried every wrench I have. what tip is used in the AE front hexes? I tried the 1.5 and the 2mm plus the sae sized. nothing fits
Tech Apprentice
pretty positive its a 1.5 - if not its a 2 and I had no trouble with front or back.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
well I got these hexes used and it looks like the previous owner may have driller out the hex lol. so once these ceramic bearing fail, I guess i just toss the entire axle/hub/caster assembly. Why do people have to be so fing stupid with these cars. I never strip out anything.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html
Wish me luck,
jB
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Well guys, I read the suggestions on what to do with the ball cups and I got my dremel out and I used some Hudy graphite grease, and it has made a total difference.
Tech Apprentice
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
yeah #learn2ballcupbaddie!!!
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Oh, so you're assuming I did the turnbuckles too tight? If you've been reading the posts on this thread you'll see that there have been quite a lot of people with this problem.
Last edited by xrayracer1; 08-28-2014 at 09:42 PM. Reason: typo
We are discussing having a hub replacement set, so you can buy the 8 hub bearings separate from the ceramic gearbox bearings. Would that work for you?
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
That would be sweet.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Converted my B5rm over to mm tonight for mod fun. Sitting on shelf and wanted some thing to do. Rebuilt rm diff tonight with schelle ceramics for mm, just need to finish electronics tomorrow. Electronics take as long as car, Esc needed new wires. My car builds; car goes together pretty quick, ok fine I'll do diff, shocks - I'll deal with oil right now and these little parts, Ugg electronics, motor and slipper, ....cool get to race!!
You guys are so mean...lol. I am very sure if I were suspended for a month, I would be the next avatar, lol.
So honest question here. Who is still running the default cradle config? I cut mine a while ago, mostly because i wanted more room for my electronics. But I cut off the battery strap mounts. This has proved to be a pain. I often have a short amount of time between bumps. So I am forced to 30amp charge my pack to be ready. Plus, taping my packs into my cars just bothers me. The amount of effort to take my pack out, when I was rebuilding, my car was unreal. I do NOT suggest using the 3M clear tape full width under the battery. That was over kill by a long shot. I am thinking about getting a new cradle and just cutting the area between the thumb screws, to give me a little more room and still use the battery strap. I do realize I wont be able to get my esc as far back and my car may feel different. Also, who makes the best fitting battery strap to inline the electronics, with the battery strap in place? Without cutting on the strap.
So honest question here. Who is still running the default cradle config? I cut mine a while ago, mostly because i wanted more room for my electronics. But I cut off the battery strap mounts. This has proved to be a pain. I often have a short amount of time between bumps. So I am forced to 30amp charge my pack to be ready. Plus, taping my packs into my cars just bothers me. The amount of effort to take my pack out, when I was rebuilding, my car was unreal. I do NOT suggest using the 3M clear tape full width under the battery. That was over kill by a long shot. I am thinking about getting a new cradle and just cutting the area between the thumb screws, to give me a little more room and still use the battery strap. I do realize I wont be able to get my esc as far back and my car may feel different. Also, who makes the best fitting battery strap to inline the electronics, with the battery strap in place? Without cutting on the strap.
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Alright, its time to get started. I started a separate build thread here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-journal.html
Wish me luck,
jB
The Bruce Lee mural, the cigars......macbook...............B5m joy-gasm!!!!