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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 08-28-2014, 12:29 PM
  #13861  
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I run the Proteck Square pack and really like it. My car is pretty dialed with Hartsons setup.

-No ballcup issue
-No need to hack up my chassis because I think I'm smarter than AE engineers
-Box stock kit with RM front arms, tower, and rear arms
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:31 PM
  #13862  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
You guys are so mean...lol. I am very sure if I were suspended for a month, I would be the next avatar, lol.




So honest question here. Who is still running the default cradle config? I cut mine a while ago, mostly because i wanted more room for my electronics. But I cut off the battery strap mounts. This has proved to be a pain. I often have a short amount of time between bumps. So I am forced to 30amp charge my pack to be ready. Plus, taping my packs into my cars just bothers me. The amount of effort to take my pack out, when I was rebuilding, my car was unreal. I do NOT suggest using the 3M clear tape full width under the battery. That was over kill by a long shot. I am thinking about getting a new cradle and just cutting the area between the thumb screws, to give me a little more room and still use the battery strap. I do realize I wont be able to get my esc as far back and my car may feel different. Also, who makes the best fitting battery strap to inline the electronics, with the battery strap in place? Without cutting on the strap.
my car still has all the cradle and stuff in it. In fact it still has B5m arms on it too
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:34 PM
  #13863  
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013
What are you running for packs? I really don't have plans to run that "brick" or "cube", whatever it is. I have some SMC shorty packs I plan to use.

Any issues with shorty packs?
I run shorties. I tried saddles and didnt like it. The car lumbered around too much.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:34 PM
  #13864  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
my car still has all the cradle and stuff in it. In fact it still has B5m arms on it too
wait a minute. Have you even driven it in months, Mr outdoor 8th scale racer?
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:37 PM
  #13865  
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Originally Posted by Konich
I run the Proteck Square pack and really like it. My car is pretty dialed with Hartsons setup.

-No ballcup issue
-No need to hack up my chassis because I think I'm smarter than AE engineers
-Box stock kit with RM front arms, tower, and rear arms
true, I dont really like hacking up my cars. The kit config cant be too bad right? It did win Roar nats with the stock configuration at a hefty 1575 grams
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:39 PM
  #13866  
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013
What are you running for packs? I really don't have plans to run that "brick" or "cube", whatever it is. I have some SMC shorty packs I plan to use.

Any issues with shorty packs?
Both my SMC Shorties swelled a bit and i'm having trouble getting the battery strap to hold. Are there any after market braces that allow for a taller pack?
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:40 PM
  #13867  
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Just an observation but I don't see pro's hacking up cars? Well unless its a durango
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:41 PM
  #13868  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I run shorties. I tried saddles and didnt like it. The car lumbered around too much.
+1 I liked the saddles ok with the stock C&D blocks, but liked the feel of the brass combined with the shorty the best.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:43 PM
  #13869  
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Originally Posted by Konich
Just an observation but I don't see pro's hacking up cars? Well unless its a durango
Almost all top AE drivers hack up the rear brace, and alot of them do dremel the cradel to make more room for electronics.. i think the blackbox is one of the few speedos that fits in the stock configuration without mounting the receiver sideways. (airtronics)
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:45 PM
  #13870  
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a lot of it for packs that you decide to run will depend on the track conditions you run on.. I have found a great setup for me that works amazing on dry outdoor blown out tracks with a light dust on it... but that may not work for someone who is racing on indoor clay watered super smooth tracks.

and yes there is a problem with some of the ballcups that came in the kits.. and yes the plier trick will fix 99% of the problems... even better if you polish the ballstuds too.
there were and are a few other little issues with the kits that are getting fixed as running changes..

there is no magic setup that will make you drive like cav.. lol but there are ways to help tune your car to your liking. one thing I suggest is to take a practice day and try different things on your car and see what it does for your driving.. try playing with all the shock locations just to get a understanding on what the changes do to the feel of the car. and so on and so on. you may be surprised how good you can get your car to work without having to spend tons on aftermarket stuff just because someone says you need it to be fast.

a great driver can with with almost any car... but a driver who doesn't drive so well most likely wont win no matter how great the car is. 10 perfect laps is always better then a bunch of crashes..lol
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:50 PM
  #13871  
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Rick, do you know if the Black box is smaller than the orion r10? Just curious really. The r10 fits good, but the cap and switch are over sized with their cases. I have debated removing the plastic case from the caps to make it a tad easier to fit in the chassis.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:54 PM
  #13872  
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I think it's like golf where the equipment that the pro's use to optimize their game, isn't necessarily the best equipment for the average person. Blade irons help the pros work the ball around trees and what not, while an average golfer will just shank them into the tress and is better off with a more forgiving cavity-backed club.

I try to first may the car as forgiving and easy to drive as possible first then tune it a little tighter as I improve and need the car to do something different.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:55 PM
  #13873  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Rick, do you know if the Black box is smaller than the orion r10? Just curious really. The r10 fits good, but the cap and switch are over sized with their cases. I have debated removing the plastic case from the caps to make it a tad easier to fit in the chassis.
I'll post a pic of my setup, Orion R10 with stock switch and stock capacitor with a M11x receiver. All fits nicely.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:58 PM
  #13874  
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ok, thx. I am just going to pick up a new craddle and put the layout back to default. The Brass C block might be my next thing. That does seem like a great place for the weight. As for your puffed packs....that was a side benefit of taping my packs in, lol.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:59 PM
  #13875  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I'll post a pic of my setup, Orion R10 with stock switch and stock capacitor with a M11x receiver. All fits nicely.
cool. I have a rx471 which is a little smaller than the 92744. So that should work great.
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