Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
What holes are best to start with on the stock wing? I did some searching and the only reference that came up was from about 300 pages back. Maybe there is more info now.
I just got done building the car and I mounted the body. The wing had me wondering though what hole to cut.
Also how is the wing angle adjuster screw used? I was thinking I would glue a small piece of lexan on the bottom side of the wing and run a screw up from the bottom to push the wing up and be adjustable. The lexan would offer a stiffer plane to push against. Or do you simply just flip it over if you want more angle and leave it flat for less?
I just got done building the car and I mounted the body. The wing had me wondering though what hole to cut.
Also how is the wing angle adjuster screw used? I was thinking I would glue a small piece of lexan on the bottom side of the wing and run a screw up from the bottom to push the wing up and be adjustable. The lexan would offer a stiffer plane to push against. Or do you simply just flip it over if you want more angle and leave it flat for less?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I didnt like mine at 1600. I like it around 1550 myself. If he was 1600, he must not have run the pucks and light weight tranny/slipper parts. Because those should put you under 1600 unless you put brass on the car.
Which holes are you referring to on the wing ?
We mount the wing a bit more forward then the stock location for extra grip.
Use just one or two bars ..
Place the wing pad on top of wing for more strength.
We mount the wing a bit more forward then the stock location for extra grip.
Use just one or two bars ..
Place the wing pad on top of wing for more strength.
Tech Master
iTrader: (51)
Pardon the newbie question but what is the real purpose of that wing pad? Do you put a hole in the wing and run a screw into that piece to hold it on the wing? I'm sure its something really simple that I'm just overlooking
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
My limited newbie understanding was that it was installed under the wing and provided a place to mount a screw in it to force the wing up in the rear.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
Its an angled wing shim to adjust the wing. no shim...3 degrees, with shim...6 degrees and reverse shim...0 degrees. if you use the 3 degree (no shim) then you run the shim on top of the wing.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
It's tapered, you can use it to increase the wing angle by placing it under the wing on the wing mounts. Nothing more than that. If you want you can put a hole in the wing and use a screw to attach it to the bottom of the wing so that it doesn't get lost when removing the wing.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
The screw is to give the wing a third point of attachment so the wing doesn't move around on the mount. makes it more solid.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Ahhh!! Thanks guys, that make way more sense. I didnt notice it was not flat.
So what mounting position for the stock wing is best to start with? Forward or Rearward?
So what mounting position for the stock wing is best to start with? Forward or Rearward?
I put an Al button head screw in mine, didn't think about the angle, could be where some of the high-speed push is coming from in my car.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
6 degrees so run forward (screw hole towards the back). This is the baseline setup. To me, trimming the wing lip is more effective.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I added a gear diff to my 13.5 car over the weekend. I'm also running a slipper eliminator. It is very smooth and predictable. Since we run sugared bluegroove there is enough traction for the eliminator, even with a 13.5. The car was smooth as butter with 5k in the diff. I would do the same thing for my 17.5 car(s) if they made pucks for gear diffs like they do for the Kyosho cars. Bottom line is that the gear diff was worth at least a tenth or two in my average lap time, meaning that it did not make my fastest laps faster, rather, it made my lap times more consistent and helped me make less mistakes.
I have to say, working on the B5M is much easier than working on the RB6M. I think that in this case the way AE designed a specific MM design is very apparent. I was able to get the diff swapped in a few minutes. There are a few things that really stand out, small things, like the fact that the tranny uses 4 screws that are all the same.
I'll also add that AE's parts quality has really improved. I definitely can't complain about any of my B5s wearing parts fast. I've done a lot of racing and practice lately and the outdrives on my non-pucks cars are all still near perfect after a couple months.
I have to say, working on the B5M is much easier than working on the RB6M. I think that in this case the way AE designed a specific MM design is very apparent. I was able to get the diff swapped in a few minutes. There are a few things that really stand out, small things, like the fact that the tranny uses 4 screws that are all the same.
I'll also add that AE's parts quality has really improved. I definitely can't complain about any of my B5s wearing parts fast. I've done a lot of racing and practice lately and the outdrives on my non-pucks cars are all still near perfect after a couple months.
I added a gear diff to my 13.5 car over the weekend. I'm also running a slipper eliminator. It is very smooth and predictable. Since we run sugared bluegroove there is enough traction for the eliminator, even with a 13.5. The car was smooth as butter with 5k in the diff. I would do the same thing for my 17.5 car(s) if they made pucks for gear diffs like they do for the Kyosho cars. Bottom line is that the gear diff was worth at least a tenth or two in my average lap time, meaning that it did not make my fastest laps faster, rather, it made my lap times more consistent and helped me make less mistakes.
I have to say, working on the B5M is much easier than working on the RB6M. I think that in this case the way AE designed a specific MM design is very apparent. I was able to get the diff swapped in a few minutes. There are a few things that really stand out, small things, like the fact that the tranny uses 4 screws that are all the same.
I'll also add that AE's parts quality has really improved. I definitely can't complain about any of my B5s wearing parts fast. I've done a lot of racing and practice lately and the outdrives on my non-pucks cars are all still near perfect after a couple months.
I have to say, working on the B5M is much easier than working on the RB6M. I think that in this case the way AE designed a specific MM design is very apparent. I was able to get the diff swapped in a few minutes. There are a few things that really stand out, small things, like the fact that the tranny uses 4 screws that are all the same.
I'll also add that AE's parts quality has really improved. I definitely can't complain about any of my B5s wearing parts fast. I've done a lot of racing and practice lately and the outdrives on my non-pucks cars are all still near perfect after a couple months.
Never seen someone go faster on clay with a gear diff till now.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
here's my baby finished at last