mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Hey Wildcat... If you think it may be the tires and don't want to grind down a new pair- check out the Panther Slicks. They come in super soft and clay compounds. Work very well when ghosted slick tires are working, plus they last much longer having been made to be run as slicks. I found they produce the same amount of traction, but have a longer life. Just something to consider. They work best if there is no dust, and the track is slightly damp.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, the track is damp clay, no dust at all. I have owned panther slicks before. 8 years ago. they were kinda "thick" in the carcass. I did see one local run them....an older guy. I might see how he likes them and watch is car go around the track

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

I've got a B5 and a B5m but am looking for some input on configuration of them. The B5m is blinged out with alot of light weight parts and such, the B5 is stock. (Both using Stock motors).

I was thinking of moving most of the light weight parts/mods onto the B5 to use in stock class and B5m for mod. What do you guys think? How did you all setup yours cars if you have both?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

IMO, the B5RM rocks in 17.5 and the B5M is great in Mod. But not the reverse. The B5 has too much rear bite for mod. Wheelies are way to common. And the MM car is expensive and a IMO not as good in 17.5. Some people will say its great, lol. But if I had a MM and a RM b5 and I wanted to run mod and 17.5, then RM for 17.5 and MM in mod is a no brainer IMO. Also, I do run both and have tried both configurations. If your racing low bite outdoor, then I would only own the RM car.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I dunno man. Yesterday my B5M pulled a huge wheelie at the start of our first qualifier with a Fantom 17.5. I couldn't believe it. Sugared track and I was running well worn Proline X2s. Thus far my B5M is out of the box except for an aluminum rear ballstud mount and I was running the 3500mah smc lipo. I find the opposite to be true. My MM car seems to work better all around for our traction. FYI, I accidentally ran a 3500 pack in my 17.5 SC and it worked great and it was hot out. The weight reduction was very welcomed in my SC6. I'm a little concerned about taking too much weight out of the B5. I estimate mine to be about 1550 with the light battery and it feels great. I'm running 1.6 pistons, Green springs, and 35/32.5 oil. I'm going to try white springs or even Kyosho golds. I like my B5M much more than my RB6.....I realize that this is all over the place. I'm just sort of commenting.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

I was in the same boat as you. Because of the weight of the BM5, I was going to use it for Mod and run the RM for stock. But I had a change of heart after seeing a 1499 gram, 17.5 B5M run some awesome lap times.

IMHO, on high bite clay, I think a lightweight B5M is going to be the better choice.

If your tack is high bite, I would try out the B5m first with the light weight parts and try to get it dialed in.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I like the MM car. And your 40 grams lighter than me and I have tons of light weight crap on mine, lol. I wish I was 1550, I just hate to spend that cash and realize I cant make a 10 minute main with it. The love short run up jumps here, I mean they freaking LOVE them. I swear they design these layouts to make 17.5 suck. Heck, watching 17.5 sc is funny as crap. They cant clear crap. They just bounce of the jumps. Probably why 17.5 is dead here and mod SC is picking up. Even the 17.5 ST trucks hate life. I saw a few SC and ST truck in 17.5 that were hauling Butt. But,....they were way too fast if you know what I mean. When an SC pulls a wheelie, lol. Something is up.

Anyway, the MM car handles great. I tried my RM car last night and I can barely drive it anymore. The pendulum at the end of the high speed straight cost me 20 seconds alone. For the main, I went MM and it was better. But towards the end of the 10 main main, I was casing jumps. One of the drivers gave me dirty looks coming off the stand and had a few choice works because I cased the double spun out and cost them a position. I was like sorry, my car is a pig and cant do that double for 10 minutes, lol. I was the ONLY rm car in the Amain. I got lapped so many times, I started to get dizzy, lol. I was just trying to stay out of their way while the RM car went around the track at mach 2. I was running a 4800mah 90c pack, so you can see why I might think a 3300 mah pack might be lacking.

I have raced layout when I could do the jumps in reverse, so saying you can make jumps for 15 minutes on your local track, is very subjective.


Scratch that, there was one other MM car in the Amain. Not sure how he finished, but his car is very quick. I might ask him next time if He tried the light pack. But I suspect he lost weight with $$$ and went for the higher mah/avg voltage pack. Most of the faster locals have no fear of putting 1k into their cars, lol.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

sorry, I cant justify a 1000 dollar stock buggy, lol. I did all of the "cheap" things to lower my weight and I am still 1595.


I do not dislike the MM car indoors. Overall its pretty good. I just need some tweaking on high bite. For medium bite, its fine the way it is. Just heavy.


Also,
And this is an honest question without sarcasm. Why do the AE sponsored drivers "almost" always run the RM car in stock? The top gun race is one of the more recent ones. This past weekend at the HRH, the top 3 drivers in 17.5 ran RM cars. In 13.5 they all seemed to run MM cars, same with Mod. I know for a fact that at least one of those guys on the podium in 17.5 owned a MM b5 also.

vito

rc23

iTrader: (74)

there was no chassis sponsored drivers in 17.5 at the HRH shootout, it was a sportsman class. The majority of the 13.5 main was MM and those are the top end guys that are most likely chassis sponsored.

I hear you on the money issue, but i will say this... Lets talk about what mods you HAVE to put on a mid motor that the fast guys at your local track arent running on their RM cars..

pucks? on both
ti turnbuckles? on both
lightened top shaft? on both
cut gears ? on both (i woudlnt run them on either, but the fast guys do im sure)
Ti ball studs will be on both depending on how serious the racer is.

So what goes on a mid motor that DOESNT go on a RM? aluminum screws, and perhaps a milled chassis. Thats it. so in reality, you are spending about 100 bucks more to run a MM car in stock than RM.

Now i know you are probably going to say you don't have to put all that stuff on a RM car, but if were going to compare apples to apples in the top end of stock racing, in reality the MM isnt the money pit people make it out to be.

as for why drivers at the top gun race ran RM? youd have to ask them.. but i dont think you can count that particular race as "almost always".. and also its a very real possibility that those guys ran RM simply because they had it. They have 1 RM and 1 MM and didn't care to order an extra MM for a once a year race.

On a side note, this is why stock racing is beyond horrible and should be removed from sanctioned racing

mupchu

iTrader: (16)

17.5 has been a money pit for a long time . . MM is not any better or worse than RM. You might as well have another thread on why 17.5 is not really a sportsman class . . .

Also 4800 is a pretty large battery . . . I am running 4800 in a mod car (7.5) and I don't have problems with that running out . . . pretty sure you could use a smaller battery and be ok in 17.5.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

+1, i go 20 minutes on a 4600 with a 7.5

mupchu

iTrader: (16)

^ you have more of an issue with people pretending a club race is the nationals . . . If your motor is running like a pig after 10 minutes you may be over geared and the heat causing issues rather than your lipo crapping out. Lipo's discharge curve is supposed to be pretty steep once you near tapping it out.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I know the chassis sponsored guy at the HRH were not in 17.5. The guy that won with the TLR could have easily converted to MM. Martin who got second has a MM car. But they both chose to run RM.

Also, I dont run the pucks. I find them to be a waste of money. I had them, didnt like the and sold them. They made the MM car too light in the rear. I didnt feel like lightening the front to balance out the car. I like my full servos. If i were to try pucks again in MM, I would get the brass front suspension holder to put the weight back, but still get the lower rotating mass. The pucks in the RM car gave me the same issue. Harder to get the rear to lock in. And in all honestly, I liked the MM car in mod more than the RM in 17.5. The MM car is a blast to drive on high bite and I dont feel like dealing with the BS in stock. I ran 17.5 last night, because a friend came into town and I wanted race against him. FYI, I beat in in the main, so it was all good, lol. But starting next week, I will probably just be last place in mod, lol. And work on trying to get my MM where i want it. I personally dont like the MM in 17.5, I have tried both and weight aside, the car feels like a pig. Anything 13.5 or lower makes the car really come alive. I will be running 13.5 in mod. I like the feel and it is all I need.


I suspect the full ride guys like Spencer and such, are probably not allowed to run pucks. Thus why you see rear motor cars. But, that is just my guess after hearing hartson had to remove his pucks.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

Im not arguing that some might find RM easier or better to drive than a MM, im just arguing the fact that MM is some monstrous money pit that RM isnt

17.5 is a money pit in general and the position of the motor isnt the cause of the money pit nor does the speed of the motor change where the position of the motor works best for each individual person