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Old 07-19-2014, 01:13 AM
  #12181  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
Geez removing the two screws from the waterfall provides a ton of rear flex, has anyone tried this?

Is it to much?
I loosen all the motor guard screws tonight .
Felt the car handle well.
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Old 07-19-2014, 07:03 AM
  #12182  
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For those of you trying to drop weight. I did this for more room for my esc/receiver lol. but hey, 22g less is good and a little more rear bias.

these are the things I did to drop weight, also because I like them for performance.

- 3/4 Ti screws (might go to alum) ~15g
- cut battery tray ~22g
- MIP alum topshaft ~5g
- AVID slipper ~12g
- Ti turnbuckles ~6g
- alum pinion
- all alum nuts.


weight added upgrades
- alum rear camber block
- 6x 3x8mm grubs screws in the hubs.

weight of the car. 1594g, lol. wtf. pucks would be another 24g less, but still that would put me at 1570g........wtf is my car so heavy, lol. Funny thing....still lighter than my 22 2.0 by 30 grams......
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:02 AM
  #12183  
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Shark

Never seen anyone ream their ball cups ...

Why are you doing it ?

Not like the ball cups need , my cups are smooth also all the B5 I have assembled for customers.

Try a shorter Ti rod , the b4 rods are too long and sometimes they punch though and bind the cups....
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:40 AM
  #12184  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Shark

Never seen anyone ream their ball cups ...

Why are you doing it ?

Not like the ball cups need , my cups are smooth also all the B5 I have assembled for customers.

Try a shorter Ti rod , the b4 rods are too long and sometimes they punch though and bind the cups....
WC, they were binding badly, and if this was caused by camber links that are too long fine, but I didn't feel like throwing $30 worth of Ti camber links away so I decided to ream out the cups. Smooth as can be now. Thanks for your feedback.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:11 AM
  #12185  
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Shark
Don't throw away your Ae Ti rods or even ream the cups to make um fit.

Just thread both cups the same .I count the turns just to make sure both are equal. If one cup is threaded more then other can damage the cups .

Think
reaming the ball cups would help if you did punch or damaged the cup while assembling if you don't have any spare cups though.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:12 AM
  #12186  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Shark
Don't throw away your Ae Ti rods or even ream the cups to make um fit.

Just thread both cups the same .I count the turns just to make sure both are equal. If one cup is threaded l on more then other can damage the cups .

Think
reaming the ball cups would help if you did punch or damaged the cup while assembling if you don't have any spare cups though.
you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:11 PM
  #12187  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
Im with Wildcat on this one (even being totally new to this game) - I busted a turnbuckle and bought shorted ti rods and new cups and there is no way I pushed them through too hard and they bind like hell. While I don't think it affects the suspension in any way they definitely are sticky. This was on a new kit as well as replacement cups fresh off the shelves. They are too tight, and I ordered a reamer to see how that goes.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:00 PM
  #12188  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
I'm not sure how you can tell this.. I have trouble just reading and understanding all the broken punctuation and syntax. Many times I just give up trying to understand what he is typing.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:07 PM
  #12189  
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Originally Posted by dnuggett
I'm not sure how you can tell this.. I have trouble just reading and understanding all the broken punctuation and syntax. Many times I just give up trying to understand what he is typing.
??
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:28 PM
  #12190  
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:48 PM
  #12191  
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Originally Posted by Shark413
I like how the B5/M has beefy ballends but the binding was really bugging me. I polished the balls prior to the build and I put one race weekend on them but as you can see they still bind. Somebody mentioned a ballcap reamer for Helicopters so I checked around and got a set. The issue is the AE stud is 5.5mm and the closest reamer was 5.6mm. I decided to try it anyway, and after reaming the camber links are now bind free. They still feel tight but time will tell if they will stay on as well as the stock cups.


Reamed cups on left, un-reamed cups (stuck) on right.


AE ball stud measures 5.5mm


Reamer measures 5.64mm


Reamers.
You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:54 PM
  #12192  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
You want the reamer to be slightly bigger than the stud also you can't measure the ID of the ball cup. .2 diff is so small is perfect. Just ordered my set already have a new set of cups
I just bought the Lunsford ball stud kit. It didn't save much weight - maybe 5 grams. But the links were WAY smoother than stock. I didn't measure it but I suspect the Lunsford balls are slighter smaller. All in all - totally not worth $70
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:00 PM
  #12193  
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So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:34 PM
  #12194  
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Originally Posted by wstuart
So I got my car down to 1470 grams, the car jumps and lands better but I kind of don't like how it handles at this weight - not as much corner speed and it seems like I'm sliding at the apex. Also worse acceleration which surprised me. I think I'm not getting enough bite out of my rear tires.

What should I do?

If I stay light I'm thinking of

Switching from white to green springs
Lighter oil (32,30 down to 30 27)
Using roll center to get the car to roll more
Changing ride height - don't know if I should go up or down.

Or I might just add weight in the battery compartment.

Any advice?
try the brass front suspension holder. it should add weight where you want it. are you using the RM arms and hubs shimmed forward?
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:05 PM
  #12195  
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Originally Posted by vito
Is it fast ?
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