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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:06 AM
  #11986  
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What shock pistons do you guys recommend 3x1.4 or 2x1.6 in the front shocks and what oil? On b5m
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:48 AM
  #11987  
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Originally Posted by Shark413
My buggy weights 1509g RTR. Schurr Speed 17.5, MIP pucks, aluminum top shaft, Savox 1251 low profile servo, aluminum screws, venom 3800mah shorty, 13awg wire, Tekin RS Gen2, Dirtwebs, MIP Bypass pistons, Jconcepts links, everything else stock.


Hot Bodies? I messed up the paint job and needed a big sticker to cover it. I didn't want to waste the AE stickers.


hmm, I dont get it. Even if I got the alum screw kit, its not 60 grams of less weight. Maybe there is lead in my tires, lol. I was comparing tires last night. some of mine are 6-8 grams each per tire........Wait....are you running chassis tape? I am and its probably 15-20 grams alone.
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:44 AM
  #11988  
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Just installed these and used the number two hole. Why do you suggest the rear outside hole? What will improve?

Thanks


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
suggesting

Use 8mm ball stud #91048

Use the rear outside hole for stud & 3 mm under stud

Only slightly snub grub screw on hub

blue Lock Tight on grub & stud
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:52 AM
  #11989  
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
Just installed these and used the number two hole. Why do you suggest the rear outside hole? What will improve?

Thanks
try it youll like it !
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:59 AM
  #11990  
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
Just installed these and used the number two hole. Why do you suggest the rear outside hole? What will improve?

Thanks
Have no clue what the #2 hole is sorry, suggesting the location because it's where most of the team has been using.
Me too..

Its longer then the camber setup with the plastic hub & middle camber location.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Have no clue what the #2 hole is sorry, suggesting the location because it's where most of the team has been using.
Me too..

Its longer then the camber setup with the plastic hub & middle camber location.
Dont let WC trick you, he loves the #2 hole
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:26 AM
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Forgot to mention -

After rebuilding my tranny the other day and driving for about a half hour the car started to make a really high pitched whining noise when I would hit the throttle. Definitely sounded like the slipper, but personally I think I overtightened it a bit yet it sounded loose. Unless I am mistaken on how a loose slipper sounds. When picking the car up and giving it power it sounds perfectly fine.

Anything I should be worried about? I rebuilt the slipper when I got home but haven't had a chance to test it out. Maybe ill do it in my driveway just to see how it sounds.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:49 AM
  #11993  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
Forgot to mention -

After rebuilding my tranny the other day and driving for about a half hour the car started to make a really high pitched whining noise when I would hit the throttle. Definitely sounded like the slipper, but personally I think I overtightened it a bit yet it sounded loose. Unless I am mistaken on how a loose slipper sounds. When picking the car up and giving it power it sounds perfectly fine.

Anything I should be worried about? I rebuilt the slipper when I got home but haven't had a chance to test it out. Maybe ill do it in my driveway just to see how it sounds.
I have heard loose diffs sound just like loose slippers. IMO, loosen the slipper. Check the diff and do the 2-3 inch lift test. If you can do the 2 in lift test WITHOUT slipping the diff, your good. BTW, the diff only sounds like a loose slipper when it is VERY loose, like 1-2 turns off. If you are close, but not yet there, it will "bark" different sound
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I have heard loose diffs sound just like loose slippers. IMO, loosen the slipper. Check the diff and do the 2-3 inch lift test. If you can do the 2 in lift test WITHOUT slipping the diff, your good. BTW, the diff only sounds like a loose slipper when it is VERY loose, like 1-2 turns off. If you are close, but not yet there, it will "bark" different sound
Thanks for the info,

Question about the lift test. You mean hold the rear wheels and give it power right? Do you give it content power or just pull it quickly? When my slipper was set to stock (nut flush with end of top shaft) I could pull the throttle and the car would raise all the way up and stay there....
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:06 AM
  #11995  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
Thanks for the info,

Question about the lift test. You mean hold the rear wheels and give it power right? Do you give it content power or just pull it quickly? When my slipper was set to stock (nut flush with end of top shaft) I could pull the throttle and the car would raise all the way up and stay there....
the stock slipper is crap. It is way too strong and heavy for stock racing. I hold the trigger for 1-2 seconds. Not very long. I am not looking to kill the pads. If your wanting to run the AE spurs, just get the FT vented slipper pads and goto a 2 pad system for 17.5. Most people goto the avid/schelle slipper. I did. I tried the 2 pad and the vts and didnt like either.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:10 AM
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Roger that. Ive been looking at the schelle for the next upgrade. Any preference vs that and the avid?

I suspect it is the diff then, since I rebuilt it and it is noticeably looser than it was before, but following the guide at the top I thought I had it honed in. Ill adjust tonight. Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
hmm, I dont get it. Even if I got the alum screw kit, its not 60 grams of less weight. Maybe there is lead in my tires, lol. I was comparing tires last night. some of mine are 6-8 grams each per tire........Wait....are you running chassis tape? I am and its probably 15-20 grams alone.
Yeah that does sound kind of light, I will put it back on the scales and double check.


Here it is on the scale right after I finished building it.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Dont let WC trick you, he loves the #2 hole
Only after a few beers
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by hcopp
Roger that. Ive been looking at the schelle for the next upgrade. Any preference vs that and the avid?

I suspect it is the diff then, since I rebuilt it and it is noticeably looser than it was before, but following the guide at the top I thought I had it honed in. Ill adjust tonight. Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated!
Honestly, aside from the spurs, the avid and the schelle are the same. You can order custom kits from AVID wit the spurs you want. I.E. 2x 69 tooth spurs. The schelle comes wit ha 72 and 76 for stock. At least that is what the website says. I run the AVID Triad in mine. Both have been updated for the B5 series. Personally, I would rather order the custom Avid kit with 2x 69 tooth spurs, since that are the most useful to me. The 75 is not overly usefull IMO.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Shark413
Yeah that does sound kind of light, I will put it back on the scales and double check.


Here it is on the scale right after I finished building it.
I am sure you were correct. Are you running a chassis protector?
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