Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

Forgive the ignorance, I don't have my M yet, but what am I looking at as far as what he modified?

vito

road trip to the shop to get my kit hope I can sleep

Vegas456

For stock racing, it is recommended that you run the slipper eliminator. Not only do you save weight, but it is rotating weight, which is huge in stock. It will not make the car drive poorly, you may have to ease on the throttle but you will get more acceleration. From my experience, I ran the stock slipper, then the V2 system, then the Exotek eliminator, and the Exotek works the best.

The other option is to run the V2 slipper system. It is a two pad system works better than the stock one for stock. You may use the stock three pad slipper, however you lose power as well as you have extra weight.

Hope this helps

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Correct!

Just curious how much the weight bias changes...

Wild Cherry

Inline shown on my ride has more forward weight ..

Think everyone should now consider they can change the chassis flex for inline or lateral..

The mod shows its easy to do .

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Already done. Not from Fastenal but a better and more fair priced fastener place. I ordered all stainless steel screws except for the ones that go through the bottom of the chassis (won't see them / chassis protector). They didn't have 22mm for the lower front arms. However, I sourced 22mm titanium screws for a fair price, and they fit both the lower front arms and are still long enough (and strong enough) to use on the shock tower mounting locations.

I have a few extra complete sets for now, and can acquire more if these go pretty fast. Had been meaning to post sets for sale, but been busy and distracted and forgot.

PM me if truly interested. I have them on hand and can package and send immediately. I will tally up a low but fair price I can sell a complete set for.

Thanks,
Jesse

blingy

iTrader: (6)

I noticed that cav was running the rear motor rear arms and someone else was running them on petit rc also ,what difference is there between the two ? thnx

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Interesting. I thought I was crazy, but I also noticed what I felt was a slight loss in traction after going alum / alum on both rear pieces. I think I might switch back to "stock" rear hubs and keep the alum rear camber ballstud mount, as I haven't had any breakage on the rear hubs at all.

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

Check the b5 nation fb page. Someone just posted the weight change.

I believe it was very minor. 62 % on the rear prior and 60% after. (Ive rounded to what I can remember)

k1ller rc

iTrader: (316)

Hmmmmmmm? Is it lack of life experience and severe ignorance OR too much life experience and severe ignorance that compels you to make such a comment?

Jcozz

iTrader: (20)

I pre ordered it a couple days after it was on the website and it stil doesn't show available

k1ller rc

iTrader: (316)

If you dont need one asap and you have a couple of weeks, you can research the parts on Ebay and buy off the Auction side of things from those who are parting out new kits and put together a conversion for about $60.
Hope this helps.

Robert421

iTrader: (11)

Hi all, I bought a new RC10 B5, what motor a esc would be the best for this buggy? I always use Novak, but I was wondering if there would be a better motor an esc for this buggy Thanks

bbrace3m

iTrader: (5)

i am using a Speedpassion reventon pro 1.1. it fits very good and does everything you will ever need it to do. also the orion r10 and tekin rsx and rs gen 2 are good. speedpassion is alittle on the price friendly side of all the ones i listed. but mainly just get whatever you want. only so much good electronics can do for you

Wild Cherry

Keep the alloy hubs because they
allow more tunability with the vertical stud .