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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-26-2014, 08:19 AM
  #8941  
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Old 04-26-2014, 09:38 AM
  #8942  
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Originally Posted by vito
That's just weird. For a few reasons.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:34 AM
  #8943  
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Just ordered mine from racedayhobbies.com.
They had them in stock.
Hope I can get it ready for the first race at LRT.
Top step of the podium; here I come.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by slow_jun
Guys,

Has anyone tried this on their AE 12mm Shocks?



these are from a TD boot cover. just wanted to know if this will fit an AE 12mm shocks?

thanks in advance
Haven't tried those let me know it'll they work! TSR makes a kit with spring cups and boots for 20 something for the AE big bores. I like boots cause I can run two race weekends between rebuilds. Otherwise my oil is dirty.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by racenut123
I have been reading a bunch and wanted to see the benefits of one platform over the other for Blinky 17.5 class racing. I hear weight is an issue with the MM. Possible overheating because of the extreme gearing required. Has anyone really done a real comparison? Gonna pull trigger on a kit this weekend and hoping to be steered in the right direction.
Depends on your driving style and what you want out of the car. I like how I can throw around my B5R -- it's grip it and rip it. My 'money pit' C4.2 is just as fast, or perhaps faster, on our indoor clay track but I'm having more fun with the rear motor right now.

As to 17.5 specifically, there are plenty of proof points that for winning big races the B5R is quite capable. And I do think that if you are good enough to be winning or losing by 10th's you will want to invest in lightening certain aspects of both cars, but it's cheaper and easier to get the rear motor to fighting weight. Stock racers are modifying the B5M in ways strikingly similar to what we did with the C4.2 ... mostly it seems to get it lighter.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:17 PM
  #8946  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Anyone have a good set up for these new aluminum rear hubs? I called AE and they had no clue what even the stock setup was
I found this in the B5 thread. Not sure how accurate but may give you some new input:

Quote:
Originally Posted by toddmanley View Post
Just got off the phone with AE...

On the rear motor B5 you want the "0*" etching facing backwards (opposite for the mid-motor). Time to swap things around.

Ugh...they called me back and told me otherwise. Apparently the etching needs to face the shock. So it will face forward on the rear-mount, backward on the mid-mount. Sorry for the confusion. They also shared the intent to get a quick document published online to show how the hub differences convert vis-a-vis the ball stud hole mounts and how that compares to the hub inserts on the plastic version.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:53 PM
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Whats the best lubricant to use on the gears inside the transmission case for minimum friction, i'm running stock class.

I have permatex white lithium grease, plus the normal RC greases.
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89
Whats the best lubricant to use on the gears inside the transmission case for minimum friction, i'm running stock class.

I have permatex white lithium grease, plus the normal RC greases.
I run the stock and don't recommend using anytype of grease. I use bearing oil from avid racing.
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:45 PM
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Thanks ill have to pick some up my track owner also recommended bearing oil... for now using low friction white lithium grease made by permatex...works well so far in my rear b5
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89
Whats the best lubricant to use on the gears inside the transmission case for minimum friction, i'm running stock class.

I have permatex white lithium grease, plus the normal RC greases.
Green Slime works great
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:18 PM
  #8951  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Depends on your driving style and what you want out of the car. I like how I can throw around my B5R -- it's grip it and rip it. My 'money pit' C4.2 is just as fast, or perhaps faster, on our indoor clay track but I'm having more fun with the rear motor right now.

As to 17.5 specifically, there are plenty of proof points that for winning big races the B5R is quite capable. And I do think that if you are good enough to be winning or losing by 10th's you will want to invest in lightening certain aspects of both cars, but it's cheaper and easier to get the rear motor to fighting weight. Stock racers are modifying the B5M in ways strikingly similar to what we did with the C4.2 ... mostly it seems to get it lighter.
Are you running mod with the B5RM, 34x17?

I am considering making a B5RM purchase, but I run mod at my track. Tried another competitors MM and just cannot get the drive/feel I think I like with it, which makes me think a RM B5 would be a better fit for me. Just curious which class you run with your B4RM.

Thanks,
JB
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:41 PM
  #8952  
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Originally Posted by lee_double2000
I found this in the B5 thread. Not sure how accurate but may give you some new input:

Quote:
Originally Posted by toddmanley View Post
Just got off the phone with AE...

On the rear motor B5 you want the "0*" etching facing backwards (opposite for the mid-motor). Time to swap things around.

Ugh...they called me back and told me otherwise. Apparently the etching needs to face the shock. So it will face forward on the rear-mount, backward on the mid-mount. Sorry for the confusion. They also shared the intent to get a quick document published online to show how the hub differences convert vis-a-vis the ball stud hole mounts and how that compares to the hub inserts on the plastic version.
Great they told be otherwise. Wonder which is really the right direction. I had talked to someone there yesterday before I installed them. Saying on the mid motor eching needs to face foward
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:52 PM
  #8953  
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I prefer my B5RM's compared to all the different B5M's I have driven. Their set up is good, just not to my driving style. Weird how I prefer a MM22 but a RM B5.
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Old 04-26-2014, 05:33 PM
  #8954  
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89
what are the 2 small silver washers that come with the aluminum steering for?
Originally Posted by gticlay
Crush washer between the bearings.
Just wanted to point out that this is super important. The first batch of aluminum steering racks that went out did not include the crush washer and it resulted in a gritty feel in the steering rack. If you got one of the first batch just email AE and they'll send you a replacement.

And to be clear, you put that little washer in between the two bearings on the rack. It's just like the crush washer that goes between the bearings in the front steering blocks.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:20 PM
  #8955  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Depends on your driving style and what you want out of the car. I like how I can throw around my B5R -- it's grip it and rip it. My 'money pit' C4.2 is just as fast, or perhaps faster, on our indoor clay track but I'm having more fun with the rear motor right now.

As to 17.5 specifically, there are plenty of proof points that for winning big races the B5R is quite capable. And I do think that if you are good enough to be winning or losing by 10th's you will want to invest in lightening certain aspects of both cars, but it's cheaper and easier to get the rear motor to fighting weight. Stock racers are modifying the B5M in ways strikingly similar to what we did with the C4.2 ... mostly it seems to get it lighter.

I have a more finesse driving style. Not a throw the car guy. Actually I agree after driving the RM today it is very nice and certainly competitive/fast in 17.5. I also watched a very fast spec racer put the coals to everyone in 17.5 with a mid motor b5 last night. Car was smooth yet aggressive enough to put it anywhere. He did relieve some of the weight in his drivetrain with the MIP pucks and top shaft. The car sold me that a mid motor will be fine.
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