54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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03-26-2014, 09:02 AM
#2747
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
03-26-2014, 09:03 AM
#2748
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.
So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
03-26-2014, 09:08 AM
#2749
Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.
So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
Said they use the same tools to cut allumium screws as that cheepo Ti .
A good indication its not even close to the same hardness or grade as the better Titanium.
03-26-2014, 09:15 AM
#2751
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Well there are some things like the puck system, aluminum top shaft, Lunsford front axles, and titanium screws are not all bling because they can help drop a great deal of weight which can help a lot in stock class. Oh and titanium turnbuckles but just my opinion though
03-26-2014, 10:53 AM
#2755
RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.
On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.
RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)
As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.
Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).
Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
03-26-2014, 11:00 AM
#2756
MM caters to the driver who knows how to throttle drive. You carry more corner speed at the expense of losing rear grip, so you have to be smoother coming out of the turns.
RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.
On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.
RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)
As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.
Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).
Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.
On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.
RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)
As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.
Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).
Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
03-26-2014, 11:09 AM
#2757
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
MM caters to the driver who knows how to throttle drive. You carry more corner speed at the expense of losing rear grip, so you have to be smoother coming out of the turns.
RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.
On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.
RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)
As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.
Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).
Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.
On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.
RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)
As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.
Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).
Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
Im going thru this learning curve now and it creates frustration. We race on a med grip clay and the first qualifier has crazy traction and drops off round after round. Buy the time the mains start Im fighting "happy finger" and doubt starts creeping in that maybe I should have ran my RM or a different tire. Its not the car or the setup its me blowing the tires off as its squaring up allowing the rear end to step out. Any advice??
03-26-2014, 11:37 AM
#2758
Some of you guys really crack me up--so much debate about RM vs MM--and then when someone like cherry posts a valid tip specific to the "M" he gets hammered. I bet if you took all the pages of RM vs MM debate you'd have only about 10 pages of items specific to the "M"--and prolly 5 of those pages cherry gets credit for---think about it for a moment......
03-26-2014, 11:43 AM
#2759
+1
Im going thru this learning curve now and it creates frustration. We race on a med grip clay and the first qualifier has crazy traction and drops off round after round. Buy the time the mains start Im fighting "happy finger" and doubt starts creeping in that maybe I should have ran my RM or a different tire. Its not the car or the setup its me blowing the tires off as its squaring up allowing the rear end to step out. Any advice??
Im going thru this learning curve now and it creates frustration. We race on a med grip clay and the first qualifier has crazy traction and drops off round after round. Buy the time the mains start Im fighting "happy finger" and doubt starts creeping in that maybe I should have ran my RM or a different tire. Its not the car or the setup its me blowing the tires off as its squaring up allowing the rear end to step out. Any advice??
03-26-2014, 11:50 AM
#2760
I'm not trying to start any bashing or comparison deadlock but can someone who had the RB6 and B5m share their thoughts on the the 2 cars. I have the RB6 in MM configuration but that darn B5m just looks good. Any thoughts please.
