137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-24-2014, 10:41 AM
#7021
Best value of anything in this hobby I've come across. $15 knockoff of a $100 Hakko. Less money than a cheapo 60w Weller iron. I've used mine for about 2 years without any issues. It is usually on backorder but only takes a week or two to restock and ship out.
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
You need a Hakko chisel tip (T-18 S3) the supplied tip is for small delicate joints, not the 12g wire we work with. You would have to do the same if you spent the $$ on the real Hakko too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
03-24-2014, 10:45 AM
#7022
Just use the 63/37 solder as far as possible. Way most consistent melting point and flow. Never have to use extra flux, the solder has enough to flow perfect. I even wire ESC leads and replace servo leads with the same stuff without using any extra flux. The 60/40 stuff is ok in a pinch but flows weird for precise work.
I buy it by the pound from amazon, the kester stuff.
I buy it by the pound from amazon, the kester stuff.
03-24-2014, 11:02 AM
#7025
. $45 is still a deal on that station though
@ Pitt...
Its exactly the same as my buddies track power, he was a little mad at me when he saw mine
03-24-2014, 11:14 AM
#7026
The layout design can favor a rear motor as well.
Lots of tight high speed corners & big jumps favor the rear design .
Only disadvantages the rear design has is when you are at big events .
At those races the traction is usually very high and the rear design becomes difficult to control & becomes darty as traction comes up.
My opinion still is one is not better then the other, you'll need both if you travel to other race facility's.
Lots of tight high speed corners & big jumps favor the rear design .
Only disadvantages the rear design has is when you are at big events .
At those races the traction is usually very high and the rear design becomes difficult to control & becomes darty as traction comes up.
My opinion still is one is not better then the other, you'll need both if you travel to other race facility's.
03-24-2014, 11:45 AM
#7027
The layout design can favor a rear motor as well.
Lots of tight high speed corners & big jumps favor the rear design .
Only disadvantages the rear design has is when you are at big events .
At those races the traction is usually very high and the rear design becomes difficult to control & becomes darty as traction comes up.
My opinion still is one is not better then the other, you'll need both if you travel to other race facility's.
Lots of tight high speed corners & big jumps favor the rear design .
Only disadvantages the rear design has is when you are at big events .
At those races the traction is usually very high and the rear design becomes difficult to control & becomes darty as traction comes up.
My opinion still is one is not better then the other, you'll need both if you travel to other race facility's.
03-24-2014, 12:46 PM
#7029
[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;13125790]
Any hobby shop will have the paste flux and it is what I prefer. Liquid flux is difficult to manage. Paste yo can dip pre tinned leads and they hold exactly what you need and nothing more. For joining leads to contact points on ESC's and Motors I use my X-acto knife and scoop a tiny bit and place it on the contact points and then hold the pre-tinned lead in position, apply heat and it's done.
63/37 or 60/40 provide equal results in my experience. Both are excellent but Flux makes for superior results regardless of which of those you use.
63/37 or 60/40 provide equal results in my experience. Both are excellent but Flux makes for superior results regardless of which of those you use.
03-24-2014, 12:51 PM
#7030
Tech Master
03-24-2014, 01:02 PM
#7031
Tech Adept
$10 from the US warehouse ($25 is still less than a weller) but it wasn't bad when I ordered because I went there for a $7 lipo for my MT-4 so the $10 shipping and $7 lipo was still $15 less than the mainstream $30+ lipo options... kind of paid for the soldering station shipping
@ Pitt...
Its exactly the same as my buddies track power, he was a little mad at me when he saw mine
@ Pitt...
Its exactly the same as my buddies track power, he was a little mad at me when he saw mine
I gate the hobby king one to a kid at the track. I feel the trak power was worth the money. Hobby king model is undeniablly a great value. I just opted to spend the extra money.
03-24-2014, 01:03 PM
#7032
[QUOTE=the incubus;13125459]
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
Yup I use a stand to rest the iron in. I try to use my helping hands as much as possible. As far as solder, I have using .032 60/40 rosin core wire. I have always had trouble getting good clean solder joint and I've always blamed it on my iron not getting hot enough. For now I will leave it be, but next time I pull the esc out of the car I will try again. 
Thanks for the advice!
While a soldering station is nice, it IS NOT needed. All you need is a good 60w or higher iron with a chisel tip so you can apply heat on a broader area. Pointy tips aren't as efficient for this application. Just be sure to get a solder stand because you can leave the iron on longer without overcooking the tip. The spiral ring absorbs and dissipates heat from the tip.
Then… contrary to what many people say, FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND!!!
The key is to not overdo it with the flux and use sparingly. Flux helps carry heat through the components much quicker and more efficiently and the only thing it corrodes really is the tip of the iron which is why I place flux in between the 2 points I'm soldering. It generates heat much more quickly and the result is a nice shiny joint.
Also use insulated alligator clips to hold your leads so you're not trying to get it to cool too quickly. You want it to cool on its own terms. Otherwise you end up with cold solder joints.
If you do a lot of soldering and can justify spending $80 or better on a higher end iron, go for it. If not, just go with a nice 60w and do as I explained and be done with it.
Thanks for the advice!
