Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree137Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-23-2014, 12:44 AM
  #6886  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 199
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Straight arms for me ....
Definitely straight here too, not that there's anything wrong with gull wing arms
flybyublue is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 06:46 AM
  #6887  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: tampa fl
Posts: 121
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I also took the alum bell cranks off. I can't get the screw to stay threaded on it. Keeps backing out even with thread lock. I have to think about how to make it work. For now it goes in the box.
just put a 16mm screw threw the top and put a lock nut on it works perfect if you dont want them ill buy them of you
jmanikis is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 07:49 AM
  #6888  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 378
Default

Originally Posted by Grasschopper
So of note from my trip to San Diego and evening of racing at SDRC was that I finally experienced the on power push everyone has been complaining about. Clearly bumps and jumps is high bite as I've not had issue until now. I spoke with AE sponsored driver Tyler Hicks about his suggestions to get more on power steering and he did not suggest the Ackerman or trail adjustments everyone here seems to go to. Instead he suggested to go to the 2.5 deg rear toe plate only 1mm on the ball stud shims (rather than the stock 2mm I was running) and going to the lower rear tower height with my shorty forward and some weight up front. This did help and I think it would have been good if I had open cell foams up front. I only had two sets of wheels with me and he felt the set I had been racing on was shot (tires swelled and too much air gap) so the set I used had closed cells. I think the added turn in with open cells would have really brought it in...as it was I got pretty comfortable with it.

So was his approach just different and maybe colored by not having the same trail and Ackerman adjustment options on the B4.2? Just a different approach to tuning?
Just "More than one way to skin a cat".
Adjustments can have close to same same result, but differ a slight bit in execution. Making one change to get rid of a front push could cause a car to become edgier to drive whereas another change can result in the same removal of the push and not so edgy. I personally like a more direct feeling car so my adjustments made are geared to fix my problem but can also make my car too twitchy feeling for others. Not a fast guy either, just like what I like.
bambambennett is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 07:55 AM
  #6889  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
BIGSKI15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western PA
Posts: 570
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Now that the car has been out for a while, what batteries have you or the faster guys at your track settled on?

I'm using shorties but I haven't tried a saddle yet and I don't think I want the weight of the square. For me, I think I would like a little more weight that a saddle offers to possibly take away some of the snap. Yesterday was the third run on my car and I'm getting faster with it but I'm still not as consistent with it as my b4. It will come as I change set ups but I want to try a heavier battery to see how I like it.
BIGSKI15 is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 07:58 AM
  #6890  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Originally Posted by nordfink
TY

Ordering the bearings and a T shirt...
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:01 AM
  #6891  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
 
Pittsdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I ordered a full replacement set of bearings as well but I haven't had any issues with the kit bearings knock on wood. They leaked a tiny bit but they are rolling super smooth.
Pittsdriver is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:09 AM
  #6892  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 576
Default

you guys are funny...

I went to a high bite indoor track yesterday... really high traction clay... there were quite a few people practicing so it was good testing time.

there were 2 other people there with ae cars .. one a mid and other a rear. the one guy was weight obsessed like a lot of you.. he had modded the rear for the puck system, drilled out his slipper and was only using one pad system.. all alloy screws and even drilled out the plastic parts that mount to chassis. my car with just a few light parts came in 1 ounce heavier then his on the shop scale.. mine was 1/4 over min. weight and his was 3/4 under.. he kept saying but he could put the weight where he wanted that way.. ok..

on the track we were doing fun 10 lap races.. no computer... just about 5 of us lining up and saying go... well in 10 laps I lapped this guy 3 times...lol

i also tried the gullwing arms back to back with the straight arms ... tower switch was easy and the straight arms felt like they had a little slower smoother steering but i don't think its really the arms making that feel as i think its more the tower... the holes for mounting on the straight arm parts are lower and about 1 hole in from the gullwing tower.. anytime you lay your suspension in it will do the same thing. its more about changing shock angles then plastic angles on the arm. i actually preferred the feel of the gullwing setup.
rickster is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:24 AM
  #6893  
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,936
Default

how big of a motor are you running in it?
vito is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:56 AM
  #6894  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (124)
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,050
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rickster
you guys are funny...

I went to a high bite indoor track yesterday... really high traction clay... there were quite a few people practicing so it was good testing time.

there were 2 other people there with ae cars .. one a mid and other a rear. the one guy was weight obsessed like a lot of you.. he had modded the rear for the puck system, drilled out his slipper and was only using one pad system.. all alloy screws and even drilled out the plastic parts that mount to chassis. my car with just a few light parts came in 1 ounce heavier then his on the shop scale.. mine was 1/4 over min. weight and his was 3/4 under.. he kept saying but he could put the weight where he wanted that way.. ok..

on the track we were doing fun 10 lap races.. no computer... just about 5 of us lining up and saying go... well in 10 laps I lapped this guy 3 times...lol

i also tried the gullwing arms back to back with the straight arms ... tower switch was easy and the straight arms felt like they had a little slower smoother steering but i don't think its really the arms making that feel as i think its more the tower... the holes for mounting on the straight arm parts are lower and about 1 hole in from the gullwing tower.. anytime you lay your suspension in it will do the same thing. its more about changing shock angles then plastic angles on the arm. i actually preferred the feel of the gullwing setup.
ha, no matter how light or much money you have in the car you still have to drive it.
vr6cj is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 09:17 AM
  #6895  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
Fyrmed2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Villa Park
Posts: 310
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Pittsdriver
I ordered a full replacement set of bearings as well but I haven't had any issues with the kit bearings knock on wood. They leaked a tiny bit but they are rolling super smooth.
I had both inner from hub bearings go bad after 2 days of racing. I just ordered a set of Acer bearings. I just switched to the aluminum front hex's too. Those roll much better now.
Fyrmed2 is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 09:48 AM
  #6896  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Tradin Paint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,301
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
Now that the car has been out for a while, what batteries have you or the faster guys at your track settled on?

I'm using shorties but I haven't tried a saddle yet and I don't think I want the weight of the square. For me, I think I would like a little more weight that a saddle offers to possibly take away some of the snap. Yesterday was the third run on my car and I'm getting faster with it but I'm still not as consistent with it as my b4. It will come as I change set ups but I want to try a heavier battery to see how I like it.
The square pack should be lighter than the saddles not heavier.
Tradin Paint is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 10:09 AM
  #6897  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,948
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
The square pack should be lighter than the saddles not heavier.
The AE site has SQ at 285 and saddles at 268.
Cridd is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 10:16 AM
  #6898  
Tech Master
iTrader: (217)
 
F18engineguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,629
Trader Rating: 217 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by vr6cj
ha, no matter how light or much money you have in the car you still have to drive it.
Are you guys just having fun making your cars lighter or is the weight of your car keeping you from being competitive in 17.5?
F18engineguy is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 10:26 AM
  #6899  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 590
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

aluminum top shafts back in stock at team associated
Micah123 is offline  
Old 03-23-2014, 12:26 PM
  #6900  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
BillPear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: The O.C. 92646
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by F18engineguy
Are you guys just having fun making your cars lighter or is the weight of your car keeping you from being competitive in 17.5?
Weight in ANY form of motorsport is important. In 17.5 in the heart of the manufactures we have a minimum of 25 17.5 buggies show up for a Friday night or Sunday afternoon club race. Any and all advantages are needed to be competitive. If I have to race Sean C, Barry Baker, and Tim Tunnerman, among others I want to be as light as possible.
BillPear is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.