Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#4906
weird
Never needed to drill or ream the ball cups.
Just used bees wax.
no problems...
Never needed to drill or ream the ball cups.
Just used bees wax.
no problems...
#4907
Tech Addict
We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
#4909
Can try a little less trail, won't be hard to do.
Personally feel less will not make more steering but does make the steering faster & more responsive.
Personally feel less will not make more steering but does make the steering faster & more responsive.
#4910
We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
#4911
Nope. I ruined them following somebody else's advice to work the turnbuckle in and out with a drill--i.e. screw it in and out over and over again to free it up. I went too fast, and even after the ones I didn't ruin doing it that way were still too tight.
Drilling them out and reaming the ends makes a huge difference. At a very minimum, ream the ends out with a body reamer so they aren't dragging on the turnbuckle. If they're still too tight after that and grease, then drilling out is another option. Honestly, it was very easy to do though, but it would be easy to destroy them if you screw up
Drilling them out and reaming the ends makes a huge difference. At a very minimum, ream the ends out with a body reamer so they aren't dragging on the turnbuckle. If they're still too tight after that and grease, then drilling out is another option. Honestly, it was very easy to do though, but it would be easy to destroy them if you screw up
You do have to be careful when using the power drill and remember your'e cutting new threads in the ball cup using the turnbuckle, go slow. Also, remember you are making 6 left/6 right hand threads... you may be leaving the plastic chips in the cup after cutting. Make sure you relieve the cut in between runs... i.e. the material left over after first run with the drill.
I wouldnt change the hole diameter, this is changing the minor diameter/thread engagement and will probably lead to failure (tie-rod pulling out of ball stud).
Here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVnN4jiB7Gk
this is almost a ridiculous example but in the video the tap is our tie-rod and the hole is our ball cups. Skip to 1:40 and stop when he gets to the boy threads... or if youre into that keep watching
#4912
#4914
Shorty's lighter weight helps improve forward traction.
Ordering a shorty myself for my car.
Ordering a shorty myself for my car.
#4915
#4916
To each his own. I'm sold on this method.
We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
Wayne
#4917
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Here is a setup posted by a local for 17.5 on indoor medium bite.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13021522-post1124.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13021522-post1124.html
#4918
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Kody Small Track Setup
Looks like Kody's MHOR setup was recently posted (small track, high bite):
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...R_Numedahl.pdf
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...R_Numedahl.pdf
#4919
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I snagged a set of those new AE X-rings off ebay over this weekend. Seller already sent me a shipped message. They are going in the shocks ASAP. I simply hate those red o-rings that AE uses, they do swell up and must be used with care. I cant tell you how many I've torn over the years, and also hit one with motor spray a few years back, and it blew up like a balloon almost 2x times the size of normal. I managed to get the AE titaniun shock shafts too from Tower a week or so ago, parts are hit and miss right now. I figure I will have a FT B5 soon with all the parts I've managed to find.
#4920
Tech Addict
I have to respectfully disagree. After drilling the cup out, it was perfect. It's VERY little material that comes out. Still feels tighter than the old ball cups when threaded onto blue TI turnbuckles. I built a b44.2 and b5 kit in the last two weeks and did a side by side comparison and even after drilling/reaming/greasing, the b5 adjustment is still tighter than the old AE ones, and they never ripped out, so I'm gonna call it good.
To each his own. I'm sold on this method.
Plenty of off power steering, and not enough on power steering? There is a perfect solution -- less front droop. Removing front droop will exchange some low speed / mid corner steering for on power steering by transferring less weight to the rear of the car during acceleration and limiting total roll at low speed. This is one of my favorite adjustments on a 2wd buggy
Wayne
To each his own. I'm sold on this method.
Plenty of off power steering, and not enough on power steering? There is a perfect solution -- less front droop. Removing front droop will exchange some low speed / mid corner steering for on power steering by transferring less weight to the rear of the car during acceleration and limiting total roll at low speed. This is one of my favorite adjustments on a 2wd buggy
Wayne