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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-03-2014, 09:14 AM
  #4906  
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weird

Never needed to drill or ream the ball cups.
Just used bees wax.
no problems...
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:15 AM
  #4907  
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We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:19 AM
  #4908  
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Originally Posted by rigor
I do know there was not enough B5m supply for many or possibly all of the 50% AE chassis sponsor drivers.
I'm sure there are 100% sponsored guys who haven't gotten them as well
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:19 AM
  #4909  
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Can try a little less trail, won't be hard to do.

Personally feel less will not make more steering but does make the steering faster & more responsive.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:21 AM
  #4910  
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Originally Posted by Losi57
We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
2mm will help but good luck....I've tried different wheel bases, camber, kick up added weight.......I just cant get this car to turn like the B4
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:22 AM
  #4911  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Nope. I ruined them following somebody else's advice to work the turnbuckle in and out with a drill--i.e. screw it in and out over and over again to free it up. I went too fast, and even after the ones I didn't ruin doing it that way were still too tight.

Drilling them out and reaming the ends makes a huge difference. At a very minimum, ream the ends out with a body reamer so they aren't dragging on the turnbuckle. If they're still too tight after that and grease, then drilling out is another option. Honestly, it was very easy to do though, but it would be easy to destroy them if you screw up
[/QUOTE]


You do have to be careful when using the power drill and remember your'e cutting new threads in the ball cup using the turnbuckle, go slow. Also, remember you are making 6 left/6 right hand threads... you may be leaving the plastic chips in the cup after cutting. Make sure you relieve the cut in between runs... i.e. the material left over after first run with the drill.
I wouldnt change the hole diameter, this is changing the minor diameter/thread engagement and will probably lead to failure (tie-rod pulling out of ball stud).
Here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVnN4jiB7Gk

this is almost a ridiculous example but in the video the tap is our tie-rod and the hole is our ball cups. Skip to 1:40 and stop when he gets to the boy threads... or if youre into that keep watching
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:22 AM
  #4912  
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Originally Posted by Ice22
do we have to use a "shorty" servo or is normal servo size still Fitting?
I just wanted a low profile to save weight. Full size actually works easier with the new mounts.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tc1
I don't plan on taking the setscrews out of the axles, hence the use of the red Loctite. No Loctite on the lock nuts, that's why its a lock nut.

Travis
Use green for this application, it will NEVER move, um ever, lol

good idea, I still haven't had any trouble with my front axles after about 30 packs through my rear motor, waiting anxiously for my mid motor
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:28 AM
  #4914  
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Shorty's lighter weight helps improve forward traction.

Ordering a shorty myself for my car.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:35 AM
  #4915  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Shorty's lighter weight helps improve forward traction.

Ordering a shorty myself for my car.
Whaaaat? I just sold all of mine because "I didn't need them". Sigh.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:43 AM
  #4916  
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Originally Posted by GraphiteChassis
I wouldnt change the hole diameter, this is changing the minor diameter/thread engagement and will probably lead to failure (tie-rod pulling out of ball stud).
I have to respectfully disagree. After drilling the cup out, it was perfect. It's VERY little material that comes out. Still feels tighter than the old ball cups when threaded onto blue TI turnbuckles. I built a b44.2 and b5 kit in the last two weeks and did a side by side comparison and even after drilling/reaming/greasing, the b5 adjustment is still tighter than the old AE ones, and they never ripped out, so I'm gonna call it good.

To each his own. I'm sold on this method.

Originally Posted by Losi57
We'll got to try out the b5 this weekend . Decided to go with dues setup outta the box. Had plenty of off power steering and no on power steering . I went to black fronts and white rear and set my camber to 0. That seemed to help a lot but still lacking on power . I'm running 11 drag brake at 60 percent and m4 ions. Any ideas on some more steering . Will going to 2mm trailing give more?
Plenty of off power steering, and not enough on power steering? There is a perfect solution -- less front droop. Removing front droop will exchange some low speed / mid corner steering for on power steering by transferring less weight to the rear of the car during acceleration and limiting total roll at low speed. This is one of my favorite adjustments on a 2wd buggy

Wayne
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:57 AM
  #4917  
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Here is a setup posted by a local for 17.5 on indoor medium bite.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13021522-post1124.html
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:58 AM
  #4918  
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Default Kody Small Track Setup

Looks like Kody's MHOR setup was recently posted (small track, high bite):

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...R_Numedahl.pdf
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:19 AM
  #4919  
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I snagged a set of those new AE X-rings off ebay over this weekend. Seller already sent me a shipped message. They are going in the shocks ASAP. I simply hate those red o-rings that AE uses, they do swell up and must be used with care. I cant tell you how many I've torn over the years, and also hit one with motor spray a few years back, and it blew up like a balloon almost 2x times the size of normal. I managed to get the AE titaniun shock shafts too from Tower a week or so ago, parts are hit and miss right now. I figure I will have a FT B5 soon with all the parts I've managed to find.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:25 AM
  #4920  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I have to respectfully disagree. After drilling the cup out, it was perfect. It's VERY little material that comes out. Still feels tighter than the old ball cups when threaded onto blue TI turnbuckles. I built a b44.2 and b5 kit in the last two weeks and did a side by side comparison and even after drilling/reaming/greasing, the b5 adjustment is still tighter than the old AE ones, and they never ripped out, so I'm gonna call it good.

To each his own. I'm sold on this method.



Plenty of off power steering, and not enough on power steering? There is a perfect solution -- less front droop. Removing front droop will exchange some low speed / mid corner steering for on power steering by transferring less weight to the rear of the car during acceleration and limiting total roll at low speed. This is one of my favorite adjustments on a 2wd buggy

Wayne
Ok. I'm currently running 3 mm front and 2 mm rear. Is it normal to run 4-5mm front. Should I also take one out of the rear as well.
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