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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 02-22-2014, 09:42 AM
  #4126  
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One of our local guys is running that body on his Tamiya 2WD. I don't hate it.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:48 AM
  #4127  
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Originally Posted by astarback
I have used avid and fast eddie. They both work great .
+1
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:25 AM
  #4128  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
Body is a little to square for me. Don't love it.
Square Schmare… It's just plain FUGLY!!!
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:27 AM
  #4129  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Square Schmare… It's just plain FUGLY!!!

% 100 agree. The kit body looks much better to me.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:07 PM
  #4130  
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I'll probably stick with the stock body even tho I like it. I race in a very windy field.
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Old 02-22-2014, 01:40 PM
  #4131  
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
I changed to 1.6 pistons and 27.5 all around. Went green rear and black front springs. Moved rear hubs all the way back. 1/2 ounce in front of servo. 24mm ride height and -1 degree camber all around. All other is kit setup.Car is dialed and very easy to drive. I run high bite indoor clay on gold Bar codes all around. Tekin RS and Revtech Killshot 17.5 at 58 degrees timing and 30/69 gearing. Very fast and smooth. coming from a MM 22 it took half a day to get used to rm again.
I have not been on in a few days so I tried to pick up where I left off. Nothing but a pissing match between 2 people,which shouldn't exist on here, and never-ending turnbuckle(camber link) complaining. Everybody on here should be able to figure this stuff out. Comparing part numbers or even existing used parts. I found the B4 camber links worked by comparison. I also figured the ball cups were very tight on the links so I put oil on them during installation. I have not had any problems with adjusting them using Trinity motor oil, just one sweep with the needle along the threads is all it took. Yes they get tighter as you compress the camber link more between the ball cups, but I am sure we can all overcome. At least I am not running a 22 anymore.

So on to what this thread is about…..SETUP CHANGES:

I ran at IERC last night and my friend helped me with a combo of our testing I ran this setup with good results

FRONT:
30 kick 0 hub caster in forward position, camber -1, ackerman 1mm with 1 mm on spindle. Inside hole with 1 mm on tower and inside on front hub using 4mm trail, .2mm shims on stock front axles to eliminate slop. 1/2 ounce weight in front of servo under steering rack with transponder ontop of standard size Savox servo. 1.6 piston with 27.5 and black springs with 24mm ride height.
REAR:
Hubs back, B hub shims inside hole in low mount location with inside on u brace with 2mm spacers, standard toe and anti squat, 1.6 pistons with 27.5 and green springs at 24mm ride height. -1 camber

THE REST:
shorty lipo in forward position, Tekin RS In locked spec mode with curve maxxed, Trinity D3.5 with 25 degrees timing with 34 69 gearing and slipper tight but not locked with V2 (2 pad) slipper plates( temped at 121 after 6 minute main), stock body J concepts wing cut to second line with angle shim installed. Black compound Bar codes front and rear(V1).

Track was wet-moist,not slick high bite with a really long straight and lots of 180's and 1 sweeper. Car worked well and is getting better to eliminate front push while driving hard. This setup will give less off power steering in trade for better mid to exit steering on the throttle. These changes dropped 3 tenths off my fast lap and was more consistent than previous set up.

ENJOY!
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:21 PM
  #4132  
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C4.2 body won't work. At least it didn't seem like it would when I set it over the chassis.

I removed the rib behind the servo just to free up a few extra mm of space for electronics.
I mounted my transponder in the front of servo. I choose to go with the short servo due to weight, it saved me 21 grams over the full size one.
Car weighed 1520g last night with short pack and servo. Only other changes was a few Ti and aluminum screws but everything on bottom of car was still steel.
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:29 PM
  #4133  
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Great info there Sean, thanks!

Anyone know the current setup sheet settings that Kody Numedahl is running at OCRC? He's FLYIN on that REEDY Race track and I think he has a great starting setup point for high grip clay setups.
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:38 PM
  #4134  
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Ended up being an 8 hr build from start to finish. My enthusiasm for building kits always fizzle a few pages in. This car went together perfectly though. No issues to report. Looking forward to running it on an outdoor clay/sand track tomorrow. After running Team C for the last three years I know it's going to take some getting use to.


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Old 02-22-2014, 03:49 PM
  #4135  
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I will try to get the setup I have been running posted. It is very neutral to drive and is a great starting point for most conditions. The entire setup can be achieved out of the box except for spring/piston/oil but most people have these as tuning aids.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Kody Numedahl
I will try to get the setup I have been running posted. It is very neutral to drive and is a great starting point for most conditions. The entire setup can be achieved out of the box except for spring/piston/oil but most people have these as tuning aids.
cant wait!
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:07 PM
  #4137  
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Originally Posted by Kody Numedahl
I will try to get the setup I have been running posted. It is very neutral to drive and is a great starting point for most conditions. The entire setup can be achieved out of the box except for spring/piston/oil but most people have these as tuning aids.
+1

thanks kody!
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:02 PM
  #4138  
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
C4.2 body won't work. At least it didn't seem like it would when I set it over the chassis.

I removed the rib behind the servo just to free up a few extra mm of space for electronics.
I mounted my transponder in the front of servo. I choose to go with the short servo due to weight, it saved me 21 grams over the full size one.
Car weighed 1520g last night with short pack and servo. Only other changes was a few Ti and aluminum screws but everything on bottom of car was still steel.
Originally Posted by Kody Numedahl
I will try to get the setup I have been running posted. It is very neutral to drive and is a great starting point for most conditions. The entire setup can be achieved out of the box except for spring/piston/oil but most people have these as tuning aids.
Thanks, Sean and Kody for bringing some sanity to these posts. Thanks Especially from me for putting up with my nonsense! Sean what spur/pinion are you running now?
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:07 PM
  #4139  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Because they are less than a $1 a bearing with my discount and they are good quality. M is on order, can't wait. I should be down on the 28th for some practice and possibly club race...see you there.
That'll be cool REEDY layout is sweet! Hopefully the M arrives in time to have it running then. Either way always great to see you.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:23 PM
  #4140  
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Originally Posted by BillPear
Thanks, Sean and Kody for bringing some sanity to these posts. Thanks Especially from me for putting up with my nonsense! Sean what spur/pinion are you running now?
33/69
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