137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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10-07-2014, 05:23 PM
Can you post a pic ...thinking of doing this to my car.
10-07-2014, 10:48 PM
Front Shock:
Carbon Flat RM arms
Stock MM tower
Middle hole tower mount
Outer hole arm mount
White Spring
Stock Piston
37.5 Oil
4mm Shock limiters (this is because I am running the MM tower, which would create too much droop without the extra limiters. the stroke listed below is key)
18mm stroke
23.5mm ride height
Rear
Stock everything, tower/arms/piston with 32.5 oil
Middle hole tower mount
Inner hole arm mount
~26mm stroke (taken from Luke Smith's setup.. i don't recall mine off hand)
23mm ride height
Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-08-2014 at 08:52 AM.
10-08-2014, 11:31 AM
Tech Adept
When used inside the shock body it reduces roll obviously when cornering but when accelerating it adds rear traction when done correctly. Essentially changing the droop of the shock.
Less droop in the front will usually give more on power steering, more droop willincrease off power steering.
Less droop in the rear will increase stability in high speed turns and increasing it will add more off power steering and also reduce a little high speed stability.
Less droop in the front will usually give more on power steering, more droop willincrease off power steering.
Less droop in the rear will increase stability in high speed turns and increasing it will add more off power steering and also reduce a little high speed stability.
10-08-2014, 11:42 AM
Tech Rookie
Hi everyone. Anyone have any insight or some information for running a shorty in the B5M? I know Wild Cherry had an inline setup, but I was wondering if anyone was running the more traditional way. (Sideways) Forward or back, etc. I have even seen some with the ESC between the battery and the motor. Let me know! Thanks.
BTW running outdoors in south Florida, clay track, medium to high bite.
BTW running outdoors in south Florida, clay track, medium to high bite.
10-08-2014, 12:06 PM
1: Droop
2: Shock Stroke
1- "Droop" is the distance the chassis travels between static ride height, and the point where the wheels come off the ground. (chassis lift or chassis rise)
2- "Shock Stroke" is the length of the shock shaft showing when it is fully extended.
10-08-2014, 12:10 PM
Hi everyone. Anyone have any insight or some information for running a shorty in the B5M? I know Wild Cherry had an inline setup, but I was wondering if anyone was running the more traditional way. (Sideways) Forward or back, etc. I have even seen some with the ESC between the battery and the motor. Let me know! Thanks.
BTW running outdoors in south Florida, clay track, medium to high bite.
BTW running outdoors in south Florida, clay track, medium to high bite.
If you are looking for slightly more rear-tire weight bias, you can run your setup like I do... which is the shorty run horizontally in the back up against the waterfall, and then the ESC dead center right up against the battery. This requires you cut away the section of the chassis pod in-between the battery posts.
If you want a little more weight forward, you can run the battery horizontal against the waterfall, and then run your esc and reciever forward of the battery posts. Or you can even run the battery slightly more forward.
Static weight bias balance is a great tuning aid.
Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-08-2014 at 02:52 PM.
10-08-2014, 02:38 PM
The first page of this thread has several pics of an "inline setup" if you want to see different ways to accomplish it.
10-08-2014, 03:45 PM
This is a tiny adjustment to the overall leverage the arm has against the shock. Just start in the middle.
Here is what I ran in 17.5 this last weekend at the gold cup
Front Shock:
Carbon Flat RM arms
Stock MM tower
Middle hole tower mount
Outer hole arm mount
White Spring
Stock Piston
37.5 Oil
4mm Shock limiters (this is because I am running the MM tower, which would create too much droop without the extra limiters. the stroke listed below is key)
18mm stroke
23.5mm ride height
Rear
Stock everything, tower/arms/piston with 32.5 oil
Middle hole tower mount
Inner hole arm mount
~26mm stroke (taken from Luke Smith's setup.. i don't recall mine off hand)
23mm ride height
Here is what I ran in 17.5 this last weekend at the gold cup
Front Shock:
Carbon Flat RM arms
Stock MM tower
Middle hole tower mount
Outer hole arm mount
White Spring
Stock Piston
37.5 Oil
4mm Shock limiters (this is because I am running the MM tower, which would create too much droop without the extra limiters. the stroke listed below is key)
18mm stroke
23.5mm ride height
Rear
Stock everything, tower/arms/piston with 32.5 oil
Middle hole tower mount
Inner hole arm mount
~26mm stroke (taken from Luke Smith's setup.. i don't recall mine off hand)
23mm ride height
10-08-2014, 09:24 PM
Some B5m / pitspot pron from the gold cup. Lots of blue in my pit!
10-08-2014, 10:32 PM
Very clean......where did you get the pit light?
10-08-2014, 11:12 PM
Has anyone tried the offset gold caster block bushings?
10-08-2014, 11:34 PM
10-09-2014, 07:28 AM
This car is amazing!
I have been stuck on my RM car because our two local track are somewhat medium to low traction and tight indoor tracks. My RM car has been rock sold at these two locations, but I had been wanting to build up a MM car to see how well it worked in these conditions.
I hit the track with it for the first time last night and am completely blown away! The MM car did everything better than the RM car did hands down! I struggled with my Centro in these conditions but the B5M is the money!
Current Mod Setup:
Box Stock Setup Other Than These Changes:
Brass C & D Blocks
1.6 Rear Piston with 27.5 Rear Shock Oil
RM Rear Arms
Shorty pack thick pad in front, thin pads in back
Schelle Slipper
Schelle Rear Camber Block
FT Front Pin Brace
I actually need just a little more mid and exit steering on the tight corners but don't want to give up any rear traction. Any suggestions?
I was going to try running 3mm or 2mm trailing on front steering blocks to make front end just a tad more aggressive.
May be parking the RM for good...
I hit the track with it for the first time last night and am completely blown away! The MM car did everything better than the RM car did hands down! I struggled with my Centro in these conditions but the B5M is the money!
Current Mod Setup:
Box Stock Setup Other Than These Changes:
Brass C & D Blocks
1.6 Rear Piston with 27.5 Rear Shock Oil
RM Rear Arms
Shorty pack thick pad in front, thin pads in back
Schelle Slipper
Schelle Rear Camber Block
FT Front Pin Brace
I actually need just a little more mid and exit steering on the tight corners but don't want to give up any rear traction. Any suggestions?
I was going to try running 3mm or 2mm trailing on front steering blocks to make front end just a tad more aggressive.
May be parking the RM for good...
10-09-2014, 07:29 AM
Tech Rookie
Guys that are running an "inline" setup, are referring to the ESC, and shorty battery, being run down the middle of the car. Drivers will cut out the inner webbing of the rear waterfall AND the chassis pod, so they can literally tuck their ESC inside the waterfall almost up against the motor. Then the shorty battery sits directly in front of the ESC lengthwise.
If you are looking for slightly more rear-tire weight bias, you can run your setup like I do... which is the shorty run horizontally in the back up against the waterfall, and then the ESC dead center right up against the battery. This requires you cut away the section of the chassis pod in-between the battery posts.
If you want a little more weight forward, you can run the battery horizontal against the waterfall, and then run your esc and reciever forward of the battery posts. Or you can even run the battery slightly more forward.
Static weight bias balance is a great tuning aid.
If you are looking for slightly more rear-tire weight bias, you can run your setup like I do... which is the shorty run horizontally in the back up against the waterfall, and then the ESC dead center right up against the battery. This requires you cut away the section of the chassis pod in-between the battery posts.
If you want a little more weight forward, you can run the battery horizontal against the waterfall, and then run your esc and reciever forward of the battery posts. Or you can even run the battery slightly more forward.
Static weight bias balance is a great tuning aid.
10-09-2014, 11:08 AM
Try going back to the plastic D block or the aluminum one. Helps the car rotate just a smidgen more.