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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:06 PM   #1456
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Mine came in at 1582 as well outfitted just about the same as yours. Did you not have any issues with the servo horn ballstud hitting the servo? I am using the same servo and had some difficulty due to the length of the neck on the ballstud, but made it work. I'll get some photos up tomorrow.
Actually didn't notice that until just now. took the spacer off between the servo arm and the ball stud. Seems ok now. I have the servo back as far as possible, no spacers.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:19 PM   #1457
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If your saying you still have plenty of kits available I suggest you post in the SoCal for sale forum they'll be gone in a minute.
ha ha ha

I know that...

Let those guys that need for Cactus know ...
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:34 PM   #1458
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The b4 shocks have nothing on the new shocks. I dont think I have seen cav or anyone else use the gold shafts in their new shocks. The explained why the gold shafts were not better. The changed the shock bodies to tighten the tolerances in the section with the orings. And personally, I see no issue with the plastic shock caps.
When you're sponsored and get parts at low low prices or for free sure, you don't need the TiN coated shock shafts. However I've found that the coating does two things that are great for club racers. Not to mention if it wasn't a good thing to have then why do you see just about all the manufacturers using it?

1. The coating is harder thus the shafts last longer with less wear on the diameter of the shaft.
2. You can SEE how the shock shafts wear throughout time, when the coating is showing thin or rubbed off completely you know it's time for a new set. You can't SEE any difference when the shafts have no coating.

The composite shock caps are just fine. I rebuild my shocks quite a bit and plastic bits just don't last very long in this sort of situation. Again, if you get them for free or at like 50% off then it's not a big deal to just buy more, but I like things that last. Also, the shock bushings are steel for the B5 kit VS aluminum ones on the older FT B4.2's.

Anyhow, here are a few shots of the car, all ready for the JBRL race at IERC. Excuse the poor paint job, but I had to paint it before running so I could see the car at OCRC last Sunday. A 30sec paint job. BTW, it's currently setup with a Reedy 17.5 and a Protek 3000mah shorty pack.






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Old 03-03-2014, 10:34 PM   #1459
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Don't feel bad & don't ever expect hostility from me.


Still have plenty of kits Bill, to be honest ? Don't know exact number can only guess, around 50 plus arrived last Saturday.

Have mass wrench N ahead.
2 kits !!!! to build this week.

Getting
Lunsford Ti rods & front axles
Shorty servo
TiN coated ball studs
Xrings for shocks
Stainless screws
Blue servo mounts
Twin pad slipper
Ceramic diff balls
7.5 reedy & Flow
and what ever I forgot....
I could use the regular ballstuds if you don't need them. PM me.
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:18 AM   #1460
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Trop monkey...

What is your name...I also race at OCRC...
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:11 AM   #1461
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Proline released a picture b5m phantom body. From that angle it looks real nice. For you tight asses calm down it's just my opinion.
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:20 AM   #1462
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Proline released a picture b5m phantom body. From that angle it looks real nice. For you tight asses calm down it's just my opinion.
Where was this, it's not on their website yet.
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:56 AM   #1463
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Where was this, it's not on their website yet.
Take your pick of RC news site... https://www.google.com/search?q=proline+b5m+phantom
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:58 AM   #1464
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redrc.net
liverc.com is the center of all rc news
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:55 AM   #1465
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When you're sponsored and get parts at low low prices or for free sure, you don't need the TiN coated shock shafts. However I've found that the coating does two things that are great for club racers. Not to mention if it wasn't a good thing to have then why do you see just about all the manufacturers using it?

1. The coating is harder thus the shafts last longer with less wear on the diameter of the shaft.
2. You can SEE how the shock shafts wear throughout time, when the coating is showing thin or rubbed off completely you know it's time for a new set. You can't SEE any difference when the shafts have no coating.

.jpg[/IMG]

If it were harder (or real TiNi coating) it would not wear off. The hardest component (by far) in the system is the shock shaft. You will never wear the O.D. of your shock shafts in any condition that an rc car runs in.

This has never been more that "shiny stuff" to be used as jewelry on our toys. 1/8 cars don't bother with it for the most part. Hardened, hard-chromed steel is as hard and smooth as it gets or is needed. Coatings are good for softer metals (aluminum, brass) to gain surface hardness.
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:49 AM   #1466
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+1 this guy is %100 right I used to sell carbide cutting tools and the coating on the shafts should never wear off under rc conditions. They use an electrical current to get the coating to bond to the metal and It is just used to harden the outside of the material you are coating.
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:57 AM   #1467
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lol you have never seen TLR's gold shafts, lol. they are silver after a month or 2. I dont think Kyosho or most 8th scales use the gold coating. And everyone talks about the greatness of the kyosho shocks.... I also dont see any of the sponsored rivers using the gold shaft. Since they get them for cheap or free, why would car and maifield choose to no use them?
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:05 AM   #1468
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Really? Must be annodized then? Because silicone and rubber rings wouldn't break down the coating even after 100 years of use (friction) against a silicone lubricated Tin coated shock shaft.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:16 AM   #1469
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Gticlay

I'll let you know about the ball studs , start building today.

The TiN coated studs wear longer , are smoother and the coating makes for a tighter fit.

Well worth the extra expense.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:27 AM   #1470
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Really? Must be annodized then? Because silicone and rubber rings wouldn't break down the coating even after 100 years of use (friction) against a silicone lubricated Tin coated shock shaft.
True....in a clean room. Now throw a layer of dirt and fines (rocks, silica, etc) into the mix and you have yourself a nice polishing compound.
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