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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:03 AM   #14581
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sub'd. Ignore.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:46 AM   #14582
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the T5m bumper fits from what I hear. Its almost the same but a tad wider and protects the arms a tad too.
I just heard about this on Friday and the guy who told me about it had a T4.2.....I probably got that wrong. I still haven't bothered to check, He actually had the ST bumper on his buggy and it did seem to cover the front better which is important for us because our outdoor track is very rough. When I say that I got it wrong I mean to say it's the T4.2 bumper that's wider.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:47 AM   #14583
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I just heard about this on Friday and the guy who told me about it had a T4.2.....I probably got that wrong. I still haven't bothered to check, He actually had the ST bumper on his buggy and it did seem to cover the front better which is important for us because our outdoor track is very rough.
The B5m and T5m bumpers are the same part number. The only bumpers that fit that are wider are the RPM and AE B4/T4 bumpers.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:38 PM   #14584
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The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:27 PM   #14585
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The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
The aluminum one is fine but remember that if you're prone to hitting the pipe or wall that puts you one step closer to damaging your servo each time you hit something hard...the aluminun rack does not give. If you have the aluminum bell cranks already you really put your servo at risk as the 5 series cars don't have a servo saver. Add an aluminum horn and I guarantee that your servos will not last long....
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:34 PM   #14586
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The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
Make sure the steering link is not binding, verify it swivels freely on the ball studs. Give them a squeeze if not. Same as you would for the turnbuckles. Replace the plastic steering bellcrank if the hole is wallowed out. Use Loctite on the ballstud threads if using the aluminum bellcrank.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:43 PM   #14587
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Hello all, I ran a 22 2.0 last winter and am really considering going to the factory lite this winter. Can anyone give some honest pros and cons between the two and if I really should consider the switch being that I've always been content with the Losi. It's on medium/low traction indoor dirt. Thank you. And if buying the b5m, what is needed to make it optimal? Thank you.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:44 PM   #14588
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I will be running in Mod 2wd. Thanks again.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:55 PM   #14589
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I'm going to admit that I'm extremely biased as all of my experiences with TLR have been terrible. The kit quality is just plain better with AE. The axles, outdrives, and moving parts are just better. You'll never have the pin come loose in a AE dogbone and you can run kit outdrives for a long while with a stock motor. IMHO all the major brands latest generation of cars are very similar in geometry and tuning....I think that you could make them all feel almost the same. Moving to AE would be more of a convenience and, in my opinion, quality upgrade.

For the money the B5M lite is a bargain. I sell lots of them at the track. There is hell of a lot of support for the B5M. Both AE and the aftermarket make a ton of stuff.

I do not and will not sell TLR products. Once upon a time when the 22 was the newest thing I ran them and everything was cool except for the hard parts....same with the SCTen. I think TLR is the epitome of Chinese garbage.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:10 PM   #14590
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Quote:
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Hello all, I ran a 22 2.0 last winter and am really considering going to the factory lite this winter. Can anyone give some honest pros and cons between the two and if I really should consider the switch being that I've always been content with the Losi. It's on medium/low traction indoor dirt. Thank you. And if buying the b5m, what is needed to make it optimal? Thank you.
I was running a 22 2.0 and was very happy and up front with this buggy all the time in 17.5 spec racing. My TLR had may upgrade to make it good though (-2.5 chassis, bellcranks, TI everything etc). I then picked up an AE sponsorship. Was worried at first as my TLR was so good.

I am now running a B5M lite with TI screws and brass C on outdoor medium/low traction tracks and love it. Very similar feel to my TLR and straight back up front.

Value for money you cannot go past the B5M lite as it is pretty much ready out of the box.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:30 PM   #14591
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I don't know why, but I just feel like the AE is a lot easier to tune and tell what the change will do.

Do the regular pistons that came in the kit work with the Fox shocks?

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Old 07-19-2015, 08:20 PM   #14592
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How are most of you guys doing your electronics layout? My hobby shop said I sould cut the bars between the battery strap posts and mount my esc there with the rx in front of it to keep everything "in line". I have seen a few cut that section and I am assuming more for battery placement.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:30 PM   #14593
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How are most of you guys doing your electronics layout? My hobby shop said I sould cut the bars between the battery strap posts and mount my esc there with the rx in front of it to keep everything "in line". I have seen a few cut that section and I am assuming more for battery placement.
I personally have my cut between the servo and between the two battery post. However I don't run mine inline like that. I would recommend trying how the buggy was designed (sideways battery). Then if you don't like how it drives switch to inline.

Inline should give you more side bite, and should have a more aggressive feel to it.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:37 PM   #14594
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I personally have my cut between the servo and between the two battery post. However I don't run mine inline like that. I would recommend trying how the buggy was designed (sideways battery). Then if you don't like how it drives switch to inline.

Inline should give you more side bite, and should have a more aggressive feel to it.
Thanks! I may just run it stock and then switch later. Figured if it was better I would do it now before hitting the track
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:31 PM   #14595
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By cutting in between the posts you can move the esc closer to the rear. Adding more to the back of the car. I'm with you. Run it like it was designed.
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