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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:26 AM   #14401
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Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed


Is the top shaft to short?
No, you're just using a slipper plate that is too big to fit inside the plastic gear, so it's not even making contact with the slipper pads. That outside slipper plate needs to be sitting ON the yellow slipper pads. Look at your picture, it's sitting on the black plastic.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:07 AM   #14402
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No, you're just using a slipper plate that is too big to fit inside the plastic gear, so it's not even making contact with the slipper pads. That outside slipper plate needs to be sitting ON the yellow slipper pads. Look at your picture, it's sitting on the black plastic.
yep. that plate needs to be INSIDE the cage that holds the assembly together, against the slipper pad. in the pic, the plate is on the OUTSIDE of the cage.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:41 AM   #14403
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Default Gearing for mod

I usually run stock but this local club runs open class and was wondering what gearing would be good for a 10.5 or 8.5 motor

Never ran mod before so any help would be great
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:51 AM   #14404
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I usually run stock but this local club runs open class and was wondering what gearing would be good for a 10.5 or 8.5 motor

Never ran mod before so any help would be great
The manual has gearing suggestions. Page 18 on the B5M manual, it might be a different page on the Lite manual.
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Old 07-08-2015, 12:56 PM   #14405
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BINGO! Thanks to all that caught my mistake - DUHHHH! My prob was that i deviated from stk (as I usually do). Another trip down to A Main warehouse for the correct disk! It's gettin to the point that I should set up shop next door!
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:06 AM   #14406
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I just picked up a B5M light as my first 2wd....anything. We run a lot of Escale and PRO 4 out here. I was hoping to pick up a setup for loose conditions. More of pointers on how tight my slipper should be, ball diff. I can hit my mark, decent driver. I know i cant squeeze on it like Escale. Im looking to dumb it down a little bit, but i still have to get it to turn. Im running my ball diff a little loose, slipper is about perfect, shorter links up front, (they will probably go longer) stock rear links -2mm washer under the ball stud. Battery has big foam front 2 small foam in rear. my shocks are perfect in stock location. I started really slow in making changes, Im really new to what its "supposed" to feel like. Am i even close? Some pointers and little trick would be very helpful.
Thanks
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:38 AM   #14407
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Elaborate on "loose conditions". Typically, rear motor works better in loose conditions and mid motor is more suited for high bite tracks.
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:41 AM   #14408
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I just picked up a B5M light as my first 2wd....anything. We run a lot of Escale and PRO 4 out here. I was hoping to pick up a setup for loose conditions. More of pointers on how tight my slipper should be, ball diff. I can hit my mark, decent driver. I know i cant squeeze on it like Escale. Im looking to dumb it down a little bit, but i still have to get it to turn. Im running my ball diff a little loose, slipper is about perfect, shorter links up front, (they will probably go longer) stock rear links -2mm washer under the ball stud. Battery has big foam front 2 small foam in rear. my shocks are perfect in stock location. I started really slow in making changes, Im really new to what its "supposed" to feel like. Am i even close? Some pointers and little trick would be very helpful.
Thanks
Have you run the car yet? Before you make any adjustments to the setup, you are going to have to run the car to see where it is, setup wise. Also before you make any adjustments you need to figure out what tires are going to work the best. If you are on the wrong tires, then there are not any adjustments that are going to make the car work. The effectiveness of adjustments are also dependent on how much grip you can get, so on a low bite track it is going to be hard to feel most changes. The B5M Lite really isn't made for loose tracks. A 4 gear transmission setup will probably help, but really for those conditions a rear motor car is going to be much better. As for the ball diff, did you break it in after you built it? If not, there are plenty of videos on how to break in and set a diff, and set a slipper. The slipper is not a traction control device, it is suspension for the drive train. The slipper has to slip before the diff. Even if you did break in the diff, it's still gonna work in more as you run the car, so after the first few runs, you will need to tighten the diff a little. If you bark the diff just once, it will flat spot the balls, and they will eat away at the rings. Which will make the diff loosen up, and be more susceptible to slipping more.

As you can see there is a lot to getting a 2wd buggy to work well, and you're facing a big up hill battle being that you have a B5M Lite running on loose dirt.

Good luck.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:13 AM   #14409
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Have you run the car yet? Before you make any adjustments to the setup, you are going to have to run the car to see where it is, setup wise. Also before you make any adjustments you need to figure out what tires are going to work the best. If you are on the wrong tires, then there are not any adjustments that are going to make the car work. The effectiveness of adjustments are also dependent on how much grip you can get, so on a low bite track it is going to be hard to feel most changes. The B5M Lite really isn't made for loose tracks. A 4 gear transmission setup will probably help, but really for those conditions a rear motor car is going to be much better. As for the ball diff, did you break it in after you built it? If not, there are plenty of videos on how to break in and set a diff, and set a slipper. The slipper is not a traction control device, it is suspension for the drive train. The slipper has to slip before the diff. Even if you did break in the diff, it's still gonna work in more as you run the car, so after the first few runs, you will need to tighten the diff a little. If you bark the diff just once, it will flat spot the balls, and they will eat away at the rings. Which will make the diff loosen up, and be more susceptible to slipping more.

As you can see there is a lot to getting a 2wd buggy to work well, and you're facing a big up hill battle being that you have a B5M Lite running on loose dirt.

Good luck.
I took my time with the ball diff. Watched the videos a couple times. Spent about an hour breaking it in slowly. I wanted to rule out the ball diff as a problem, knowing I was going to struggle. It's really really smooth. I've always been a gear diff, if someone said make it like 4k ide be spot on. I ran it about 2 hrs breaking everything in. My tires are spot on. I shouldnt have said loose. More hard packed with real light dust on top. I run the same tires in E scale. Fast lap in Escale is 24.3 and you are on it with perfect lines. My fast lap so far is 27.1 it's really hard to be spot on with this. My biggest problem is washing out in a turn on power. I have to be super careful. I have plenty of steering, actually to much. It will dive into a turn. I was hoping to gain a little rear traction in the turns by loosing some steering. The thing is I always do good in Escale. I was really running my mouth on how I was gonna dominate 2wd. I can't really ask my buddy what to do because I was running my mouth to him. All in good fun. Otherwise this thing is great. Plenty of steering, jumps and flys well. Has great rip on the down sides with good breaks. I'm very pleased with it. Wish I would have got one sooner
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:18 AM   #14410
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you might need more weight in the rear. Take a look at the brash C block and you might want to give a square pack a try.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:38 AM   #14411
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"The thing is I always do good in Escale." What is Escale? Is this a mid motor 2wd buggy class?
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:10 AM   #14412
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"The thing is I always do good in Escale." What is Escale? Is this a mid motor 2wd buggy class?
1/8th scale Electric Buggy
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:12 AM   #14413
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I took my time with the ball diff. Watched the videos a couple times. Spent about an hour breaking it in slowly. I wanted to rule out the ball diff as a problem, knowing I was going to struggle. It's really really smooth. I've always been a gear diff, if someone said make it like 4k ide be spot on. I ran it about 2 hrs breaking everything in. My tires are spot on. I shouldnt have said loose. More hard packed with real light dust on top. I run the same tires in E scale. Fast lap in Escale is 24.3 and you are on it with perfect lines. My fast lap so far is 27.1 it's really hard to be spot on with this. My biggest problem is washing out in a turn on power. I have to be super careful. I have plenty of steering, actually to much. It will dive into a turn. I was hoping to gain a little rear traction in the turns by loosing some steering. The thing is I always do good in Escale. I was really running my mouth on how I was gonna dominate 2wd. I can't really ask my buddy what to do because I was running my mouth to him. All in good fun. Otherwise this thing is great. Plenty of steering, jumps and flys well. Has great rip on the down sides with good breaks. I'm very pleased with it. Wish I would have got one sooner
Mid motor is all about corner speed. Carry more speed into the turn so you don't have to accelerate so hard out of it. If it's hairpin after hairpin on loose stuff, the rear is probably better.

As for your traction, besides adding weight, you can try adjusting the roll centers. I prefer a higher roll center on loose stuff. I find that you are able to get on power earlier and faster than using a low roll center. LRC is preferred on med to high bite tracks, and HRC on low bite.

There are a few options you can try.
CAMBER LINK:
Lower the inner rear camber link -2mm setting with no spacers. That will help Raise the roll center. Also shortening the rear link will also help a bit with traction as it will help square up the car earlier on exit allowing you to get on power quicker.

HRC MOD:
Add this option to you car
Exotek HRC

Or you can try shimming up the existing rear suspension holders yourself as a DIY project.

Also, even if you run this mod, shortening the rear link will help the car square on exit quicker.


Hope this helps.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:21 AM   #14414
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1/8th scale Electric Buggy
Thank You! Google had nothing...
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:31 AM   #14415
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
I just picked up a B5M light as my first 2wd....anything. We run a lot of Escale and PRO 4 out here. I was hoping to pick up a setup for loose conditions. More of pointers on how tight my slipper should be, ball diff. I can hit my mark, decent driver. I know i cant squeeze on it like Escale. Im looking to dumb it down a little bit, but i still have to get it to turn. Im running my ball diff a little loose, slipper is about perfect, shorter links up front, (they will probably go longer) stock rear links -2mm washer under the ball stud. Battery has big foam front 2 small foam in rear. my shocks are perfect in stock location. I started really slow in making changes, Im really new to what its "supposed" to feel like. Am i even close? Some pointers and little trick would be very helpful.
Thanks

I'll tell you right now that the book set up is nowhere near where you'll need to be. I run primarily outdoors and for the first time ever the out of the box set up on an AE car [for the Lite] is 100% dog poop on hard packed blue groove. It took me a month or more to figure it out. It seems like all the new AE setups are 100% indoor clay based. Its hard to work off online setup sheets because most of the guys posting those are 100x faster than the average guy. Just to start, I have found that you need to run more droop in front, a tad less in the rear, longer & lower rear links, and I run 0mm on the rack (ackerman). I have actually run -2 on the rack (courtesy of Socket). I found that with a light weight car and 3 gear tranny the common b5m setups made the car twitchy and the rear very loose, especially on power.
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