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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:23 AM   #14386
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Hey all, wondering what aluminum servo arms fit the b5m while keeping the same geometry as the stock plastic ones. Running 23t servo now. Also what are your opinions on stock plastic vs. aluminum. Any input would be great. Thanks
A plastic servo horn works as a servo saver...an aluminum one works as a servo destroyer.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #14387
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We didn't race this weekend due to the holiday but I had a great run on our thursday night program putting it to some of the locally sponsored guys with my pig of a b5m. Taking the lead from 3rd place on the grid after the top 2 decided to bobble on the first lap. I held on to the lead for a couple of laps then clipped a pipe flipping over. Fortunately the other guy lost it again and I went on by trying to stay clean while everyone tried pushing harder with some gains and some losses. With less than 2 minutes to go I made another big error having to be marshaled. I believe it dropped me to 3rd but on the same lap at the top of "Mount Panorama" both 1st and 2nd wrecked and I cruised on by so the results don't show me falling so far. Knowing I had a little bit of a cushion I backed off the last 2 laps and kept it clean to bring home the Senna driven McLaren-Honda inspired livery. We had a blast talking while racing. Here's a far-from-the-truth representation of the ceremonies afteward.



other things to note:
our traction is probably closer to good carpet traction so I've gone back to MM rear arms running wheelbase in middle. ride height down between 21-22. Went back to stock front link after being at longer link for much of the last year and ended up picking up about 0.8 average. I think this is mostly due to other setup changes between original build and current setup. rear roll center is 0 on stock rear mount.
I will try to post a full setup sheet for petitrc within a couple of days.
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Last edited by Mason; 07-06-2015 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:04 AM   #14388
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Originally Posted by justin payne View Post
Hey all, wondering what aluminum servo arms fit the b5m while keeping the same geometry as the stock plastic ones. Running 23t servo now. Also what are your opinions on stock plastic vs. aluminum. Any input would be great. Thanks
I use the TLR aluminum horn, the offset it pretty much perfect

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A plastic servo horn works as a servo saver...an aluminum one works as a servo destroyer.
Depends on if you have a crappy servo or not, Been running an aluminum horn on a Protek 130ss for over a year without any issues.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:17 AM   #14389
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I use the TLR aluminum horn, the offset it pretty much perfect



Depends on if you have a crappy servo or not, Been running an aluminum horn on a Protek 130ss for over a year without any issues.
What it really depends on is how hard a car gets blasted on it's front wheels from the side of the car.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:17 PM   #14390
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The new JC rear camber brace is cool, but it really bugs me that they say the optional "half hole" holes are for tuning camber gain. Changing the link location laterally at the inside will certainly change camber gain, but it has a far greater effect on roll center across the entire suspension action.

The further out the inside link mounts, the less the car will roll as it rolls—i.e. it changes the progression of the roll to be less linear and more exponentially resistant to roll. The height of the inside link really changes the "starting mechanical advantage" or how much roll the car has at low speed operations, and the lateral direction of the inside mount really changes how much the car "keeps rolling" under high speed operation.

The outside link at the rear hub is really the ideal place to tune camber gain because it barely affects roll center during suspension action by moving it laterally (it certainly affects roll center when moving up and down). The kit hub and FT hubs already allow for an a/b half hole change in camber gain.

The new JC brace is actually really damn cool, since having those half holes in roll center tuning is really a great thing on the b5m since it's so sensitive to that setting, so the part is trick no matter what.

Wayne
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:57 PM   #14391
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Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
A plastic servo horn works as a servo saver...an aluminum one works as a servo destroyer.
AGREED.

I snapped mine the other day by clipping a pipe at high speed. So thankful i didn't have an aluminum servo horn!!! Would have been a $100 aud replacement instead of a $2 one.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:02 PM   #14392
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Default Slipper Spring & Nut

First time I ever posted pics so hang on!! I'm usin this setup on my T5M. Instructions say to tighten shaft nut until the top of the nut head is flush w/ the shaft then back off 1/8 turn.

Pic shows nut tightened up all the way with spring completely compressed. Nut still has a way to go before top of the nut head is flush w/ the shaft.

Any advice?
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:04 PM   #14393
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Well, it looks like I also need help on posting pics(
Got message "Uploading JPG file FAILED".
File size of 1 pic is 2.33 MB
I'll try to "edit" down to 293 KB

Last edited by WJ Racing; 07-07-2015 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:32 PM   #14394
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Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Well, it looks like I also need help on posting pics(
Got message "Uploading JPG file FAILED".
File size of 1 pic is 2.33 MB
I'll try to "edit" down to 293 KB
How to adjust slipper. Set it in the middle (half way between tightened all the way and loose) and do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSmHEnj71mw
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:16 PM   #14395
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Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed


Is the top shaft to short?
Attached Thumbnails
Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-b5m-slipper-002.jpg   Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-b5m-002.jpg  

Last edited by WJ Racing; 07-07-2015 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:39 PM   #14396
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Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed
Is that a vented v2 slipper plate? I think you have to use the smaller dia vts slipper plate.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:47 PM   #14397
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Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed
That is the incorrect slipper plate.
Look at this one, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91179/
Or this for another view of the part, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91175/
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:50 PM   #14398
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How to adjust slipper. Set it in the middle (half way between tightened all the way and loose) and do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSmHEnj71mw
Is it true the veh shown in the vid uses a 5.5 mm nut on the slipper?
I got a car just like it and I use a 7mm wrench to adjust ...a 7 mm nut.

Personally, I would start the slipper beyond loose and tighten it up from there. The video starts off with the diff possibly getting barked, because the slipper is started off from a randomly locked position.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:22 PM   #14399
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Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Ok, think I figured out the pic thing. Here goes again.


Pic 1: Spring fully compressed - Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft

Pic 2: Nut tightened all the way but still not flush w/ end of shaft - Spring fully compressed


Is the top shaft to short?
Yeah..you've just got the wrong assembly there is all.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:09 AM   #14400
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Is it true the veh shown in the vid uses a 5.5 mm nut on the slipper?
I got a car just like it and I use a 7mm wrench to adjust ...a 7 mm nut.

Personally, I would start the slipper beyond loose and tighten it up from there. The video starts off with the diff possibly getting barked, because the slipper is started off from a randomly locked position.
The b5/b5m top shaft uses a 4mm threaded nut which adjusts with a 7mm wrench.
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