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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:06 PM   #14341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krio View Post
Many outdoor tracks here in Michigan are more old school, topsoil surfaces. I've done lots of testing on them with my two mid motor cars and the 4 gear is better for my driving style in mod. It definitely gives you more rear bite while accelerating and also really helps when pitching the car around mid air after rough jumps that don't always launch you cleanly. That being said, it makes it harder to use the brakes as it pitches more weight forward, but I tend to just scrub speed by throwing the car sideways.

However, it is a smaller difference than I expected going between the two gearboxes (both AE). The biggest difference was getting the car around 1550-1580 with a 68-70% rear weight bias. Also, more flex helped a lot more than the gearbox swap by doing the waterfall mod and/or using a more flexible chassis. I've currently settled on the infinity chassis with weights/brass exactly where I want it and the 4 gear transmission in mod and the an aluminum chassis I've milled myself with the 3 gear transmission in stock. Both cars run shorties at the weight mentioned above so I can play with the bias more easily track to track.

I have yet to play with the lite chassis, but my guess is that its increased flex over the stock one is more ideal and then adding some brass in the rear to change the bias/overall weight would be than the way to go.
Let me congratulate you on a well written and helpful post.
Thank you.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:02 PM   #14342
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Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.

So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:17 PM   #14343
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.

So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
In the past i would have agreed with you 100% on chassis flex.
However in off road there are so many variables it is hard to run a car as soft as you want to get grip while still maintaining a platform that can handle the jumps and landings. Not saying it can't be done but it will take longer to get there.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:38 PM   #14344
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What is the waterfall mod?
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:08 PM   #14345
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Did anyone else have tightness when putting the steering blocks into the caster blocks?

I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.

I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.

Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?

This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today

Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:09 PM   #14346
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Hey guys

I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:29 PM   #14347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
Did anyone else have tightness when putting the steering blocks into the caster blocks?

I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.

I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.

Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?

This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today

Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
I can't speak to all of these but I can talk about the ball cups. My son's kit was loose from day one. My more recent kit, I have had to squeeze them at least once per race day. You can actually feel them tighten up during the course of the race day.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:35 PM   #14348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.

So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
I love a flexy car. I love them in touring car, and in offroad buggy. I tend to be the driver that prefers more grip all over the track with a more numb feeling with a slight push... and if I start to encounter some traction rolling, I can dial it out with roll resistance changes.

If you like a really aggressive feeling car, more ridged is for you.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:44 PM   #14349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanatic01 View Post
Hey guys

I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
Check out RC10B5 Nation on Facebook if you're on there... tons of pics..

My car is set up inline with a LRP SXX, shorty and a low profile Sanwa servo.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:28 PM   #14350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.

So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
the thickness of the chassis is the same, but it is milled thinner in a few spots. not the tail section when the chassis takes the most wear.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:38 PM   #14351
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If you like a flexy car buy an SLRC chassis. Its a tad thinner and made of a different aluminum. Its a huge difference. I run one on my T5M too. Its the best mod I've done to date. I had a lot of trouble getting my car to feel right with a 3 gear tranny and the SLRC made up the difference. When winter comes around and I go back to 4 gear the SLRC chassis is really going shine....that's not why I posted actually.

Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:48 PM   #14352
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/jconcep...b-motor-plate/



Quote:
JConcepts has rolled out a replacement motor plate for the popular 3-gear transmission available for the B5M, T5M and SC5M vehicles. The special design of the plate with a honeycomb milling affect over the standard “heatsink” ribs makes for improved rigidity in multiple directions. The honeycomb features add a 3D look especially as they remain natural aluminium while the rest is available black or blue in colour while slight chamfering on the 3mm thickness material allows the rather beefy plate to look quite skinny.


http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/jconcep...allstud-mount/



Quote:
Coming from JConcepts and made for Team Associated B5M-based vehicles is an aluminium 4-hole rear ballstud mount. Offering two new, additional holes for camber gain adjustment as well as two standard holes the mount allows an in-between setting as well as an evenly spaced 4th hole all the way inside. In addition, the mount also features a setting which allows the racer to change the orientation of the mount to either -2mm or +2mm of inner ball-stud height. The durability in this mounting area has been put to the test with difficult race circuits and especially with the introduction of the T5M and the pending release of the SC5M. The JConcepts part therefore also has added thickness around the screw mounting holes, a thickened main connection U-brace and for twisting and bending resistance a thick rib added from the main body to the screw location boss. The part fits all M-series Team Associated off-road vehicles and it comes black or blue anodised.




http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/mckune-...attery-braces/



Quote:
Mckune Design have released their new line of carbon fibre battery braces for the Kyosho RB6 and Associated B5M 2WD buggies. The RB6 cross brace allows racers to modify the chassis and mount a shorty battery sideways without compromising the stiffness of the chassis while the inline B5M battery brace provides secure mounting of an inline battery in either forward or rear position.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:44 PM   #14353
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What setup changes might I have to make with the LCG transmission?
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:06 PM   #14354
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Looking for feedback:
VRP Shock pistons or RCShox pistons?
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:18 PM   #14355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
If you like a flexy car buy an SLRC chassis. Its a tad thinner and made of a different aluminum. Its a huge difference. I run one on my T5M too. Its the best mod I've done to date. I had a lot of trouble getting my car to feel right with a 3 gear tranny and the SLRC made up the difference. When winter comes around and I go back to 4 gear the SLRC chassis is really going shine....that's not why I posted actually.

Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
My main issue with the MIP tranny is the old style top shaft bearings
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