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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:23 AM   #14236
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I run the +4 mount on my T5M and I honestly didn't feel any difference at all. I'd be running it on my B5M but it doesn't work with pucks. If you run pucks you'll have to contact MIP and get shafts that at are 2mm longer.
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:01 AM   #14237
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/06/mip-b5t...in-1-topshaft/



New from MIP and made for the Team Associated B5 and T5 series of vehicles is the Eco All-in-1 topshaft. The shaft is designed to work with the original 3-gear rear motor, 4-gear mid motor, 4-gear V2 mid motor, 3 gear mid motor, and the MIP Box gearbox which was made possible by some clever engineering that allows to run all necessary bearing sizes on one top shaft. Along with the 5-in-1 capability the contact surface is 30 percent narrower than normal, equating to less overall contact patch and drag on the idler gear. The shaft also weighs in at a feather light 3.8 grams, making it ideal especially for 17.5 stock class needs.
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:51 AM   #14238
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That's a nice little piece of engineering they came up with.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:41 AM   #14239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I just put together a b5m lite and noticed that it came with the reg front tower and not the rm tower. I though everyone was running the rm tower? Sorry if repetitive question, new to associated
Hi!

I just started my factory lite build and want to know if I have the correct front shock tower. How do you tell between the two? I tried looking on the team associated website but they have the same part number for the front tower on the b5 rear motor, b5m lite and b5m. If it helps to decipher, mine has a little plastic bump in the center of the tower. Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:59 PM   #14240
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If my memory serves me correctly the B5M tower is wider than the B5R. Without having the measurements handy I couldn't tell you the difference. If you have the 2 towers its easy to see when you compare. The tower is super easy to install. Assemble it and if the front is funky that's probably your issue. The arms are also different between the two but I don't recall AE giving people the wrong arms....
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Old 06-20-2015, 04:00 PM   #14241
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The b5m tower has a little dip in the center you described and the b5r has none. Get on Amain and you can see the difference in the pics also.
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Old 06-20-2015, 04:31 PM   #14242
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qdrhrse & cridd thank you for the clarification. I looked on amain and it looks like I have the wrong front shock tower. I have contacted Team Associated and hopefully they will fix the issue.

Has anyone else ran into any other build issues with the B5M factory lite besides missing parts? I am disappointed at the quality control with Team Associated. After returning to the hobby from a 20 year hiatus, I noticed some differences with the kits of yesteryear and this kit. I originally had the RC10B2 and the build was solid, as for this factory lite build, the plastic parts seem to be of a softer material. The evolution of the RC10 has been a great change and for the best. But the quality is lacking and from the posts that I have read on here, it seems as if this is normal. Okay my rant is over, time to finish the build and start racing!
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:23 PM   #14243
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You'll find the build on your new B5M much better than that of the B2, B3, or B4. The quality is not even comparable and the new buggy is like a piece of iron. Its a lot easier to race these days. You picked a great time to come back.
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:18 PM   #14244
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I'm not picking on anyone in particular here but I find it funny that people complain about some issues with today's kits. It's not even isolated with AE kits, but have read and heard many complain on all the major manufactures kits out today. The over all quality and build of today's kits are amazing when you compare them to that of kits from the last 2 decades. I've built every kit AE and Losi (TLR) have had since they began and think today's kits are miles above those that have come before the current gen.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:00 PM   #14245
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Default Happy Father Day

Happy Fathers Day to all the B5M Dads!!
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:42 PM   #14246
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I dont have a B5M yet, am I excluded from your Happy Father's Day wishes? LOL! Just kidding.

I am considering a buggy for my local track but i'm not sure if I should jump into an Associated after running Durango. I have never run an associated car - swore I never would - but, if I do, I'm going with the like and running stock class. Any additional parts I need to purchase with the kit...aside from the obvious tires and batteries?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:51 PM   #14247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I run the +4 mount on my T5M and I honestly didn't feel any difference at all. I'd be running it on my B5M but it doesn't work with pucks. If you run pucks you'll have to contact MIP and get shafts that at are 2mm longer.
When I put the +4 on my buggy too I didn't even notice a difference either. Must be a mental thing!
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:07 PM   #14248
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When I put the +4 on my buggy too I didn't even notice a difference either. Must be a mental thing!
I tired mine for the first time today and it was quite different. There's a big difference in feel mid corner and on power traction through corners. It actually changes a lot!! The narrower 5mm hexes are of course critical. If you keep the same camber link position it's now longer to maintain the same camber setting and because of the wider pivot the lower shock position is now further out.

I only got 1 run and a few practice laps on it so more running is needed and a few more setup tweeks. I was also running on an outdoor low bite track.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:22 PM   #14249
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
I tired mine for the first time today and it was quite different. There's a big difference in feel mid corner and on power traction through corners. It actually changes a lot!! The narrower 5mm hexes are of course critical. If you keep the same camber link position it's now longer to maintain the same camber setting and because of the wider pivot the lower shock position is now further out.

I only got 1 run and a few practice laps on it so more running is needed and a few more setup tweeks. I was also running on an outdoor low bite track.
Some people are much more in tune with their car than others.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:00 AM   #14250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
I dont have a B5M yet, am I excluded from your Happy Father's Day wishes? LOL! Just kidding.

I am considering a buggy for my local track but i'm not sure if I should jump into an Associated after running Durango. I have never run an associated car - swore I never would - but, if I do, I'm going with the like and running stock class. Any additional parts I need to purchase with the kit...aside from the obvious tires and batteries?
I have always liked to be different too so I understand it is hard to jump on the bandwagon (I am a Tamiya purist). I think you will be pleased though! In terms of upgrades from the stock Lite kit, I wanted so bad to have a list of parts I would want/need, but it comes with pretty much everything you would realistically need (BTW, it doesn't come with wheels). I am no expert, but I would build it box stock and tune from there. With the stock setup, it is pretty dang sweet. Mine, totally stock, with Tekin electronics weighs 1530 grams track-ready, you don't even really need to buy upgrades to put it on a diet for stock class. I know a lot of folks will say Pucks for starters, I would run it stock first though and see what you think.

Enjoy!
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