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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:19 PM   #14026
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that is why I am not sold on the lite chassis, removing weight from a very low point on the car feels wrong especially if you are below 1500.
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:40 PM   #14027
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However, then you can add the weight where you want it.
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:53 PM   #14028
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true but as low and as evenly across the bottom as it is with the regular chassis.
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:35 PM   #14029
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Your car is fairly light for a mod car. What surface are you on? What is your setup? What tires?

What pinion and spur?

What timing?

There are so many variables, you have barely scratched the surface. And let me also mention, there is NO way a B4 is weighing anywhere near 1525, I don't have a lot of experience with that generation of cars, but I do know they are SUPER light, lighter than even the B5 rear motor.

You're running very hot for a mod motor, I would try dropping a tooth and seeing what it does. How old is that motor? What was the last time the rotor was zapped? Weak rotors will make a motor run hot regardless of gearing or timing.
Just to update, I was wrong about the weight, weighed it again and it's 1625g, guess that's more normal for the B5M
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:51 PM   #14030
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Just to update, I was wrong about the weight, weighed it again and it's 1625g, guess that's more normal for the B5M
You're probably 150 grams more than your buddies B4. Especially if he's still fitted with the short chassis.

That is a MASSIVE difference.
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:58 PM   #14031
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You're probably 150 grams more than your buddies B4. Especially if he's still fitted with the short chassis.

That is a MASSIVE difference.
Would I be better off starting over with a rear motor B5 for weight savings, or maybe even switching to B4?
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:03 PM   #14032
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Why!?! What are you lap times? Is it lack of power that is causing you to lose races? Until you have a good feel for what is causing you to be slower don't do ANYTHING but drive more and get more familiar with the car and the track. Races are won in the corners, not on the straight away.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:22 PM   #14033
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for $100 you could probably get that car down to 1500 grams.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:17 PM   #14034
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for $100 you could probably get that car down to 1500 grams.
I'd be interested in knowing what it would take, out of curiosity if nothing else.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:19 PM   #14035
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Why!?! What are you lap times? Is it lack of power that is causing you to lose races? Until you have a good feel for what is causing you to be slower don't do ANYTHING but drive more and get more familiar with the car and the track. Races are won in the corners, not on the straight away.
Assuming that is in response to my post. The reason I asked about starting over with a different car is that I have a B5 rear motor available; seems many people say they are superior to the mid motor on low to mid traction.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:20 AM   #14036
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Assuming that is in response to my post. The reason I asked about starting over with a different car is that I have a B5 rear motor available; seems many people say they are superior to the mid motor on low to mid traction.
Please excuse my wording here. But yes, a rear motor can be better on medium or low bite, or even high bite. That's of course if you don't have any idea on how to setup a car. If you do, a mid motor car in my opinion will always be a faster car into and through the corner. The mid motor car can almost get off the corner as hard, as long as you again have the setup correct.

Is the mid car more sensitive to setup? I'd say yes. Once you get it close, to me, the mid motor car seems to be more rewarding.

More of my opinion? SLRC chassis, cut the cross braces, get the car to 1550 and put in a hotter motor to over come the weight disadvantage. I have no problem sharing my medium grip setup with you, but on paper and real life, my car is far from a "box stock" B5m.

81 tooth spur should never be used on a mid motor car, only the 78 for mod, and 66/69/72 for 17.5.

Again, these are all my opinions.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:30 AM   #14037
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Socket is mostly correct about his opinions It seems that AE has chosen the RM car for some outdoor racing in the US. Nick Wautlet recently posted his setup sheet. Socket is correct, the RM car is "easier" to setup. I run on med-high and high bite tracks and prefer the MM car. Mostly for their flat jumping and lower rear bite.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:52 AM   #14038
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Kody is really an astro guy? lol. Nice job on 2nd on the grid. He pretty much crushed Cav.
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Old 06-05-2015, 08:43 AM   #14039
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Many say the mid motor car is a little harder to drive but from my experience it's massively easier to drive. Our local indoor track is medium bite clay but I find the MM very forgiving and easy to catch. You don't have the massive pendulum affect of the rear motor pulling you around corner exits. Just a different feel but much easier once you're use to it. Stick with MM in almost any aspect unless it's just a silty, dusty mess of a track...even then I'd still give the MM a go and let it drift a little.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:00 AM   #14040
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Haha, no point in the MM vs RM debate. Most people who say MM works everywhere dont run on they types of track that RM shines. I have seen a local make the A main in stock and do very well with a clapped out B5RM. In the end, it is all about the driver
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