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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-03-2015, 03:43 PM   #14011
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81T spur and 20T pinion
Running on hard pack dry dirt, dusty and loose on top. Soft Blockades on the back and soft 3 ribs on the front.

I did get the motor used, speed passion 8.5R, so don't know it's history. Never heard of zapping the rotor.
The motor has a 10* adjustment window and is set in the middle. Esc timing is set to 17* the way it came out of the box.

As for the B4 I haven't actually weighed it myself but trusted what I was told. If I get a chance I'll weigh it myself with the same scale to confirm. I know the B4 runs full size packs so they might have added to its weight.

I do have a Tekin motor to try and am now wondering if there could be a big difference from a Tekin esc(RS) to the Hobbyking(Hobbywing clone) in its power delivery to the motor.

Go to a 78 spur, and try a 24 tooth pinion and then change from there based on feel and temp. I don't see a reason to run an 81 tooth spur.
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:45 PM   #14012
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Looking for some help. I am running 69/32 on a high bite indoor carpet track. My 17.5 reedy motor is coming off around 110 degrees with the timing at about 37 degrees. I would like to be able to get some more power on the low end to clear some triples. Right now I can clear the triples through the first half of my pack but not the second.

Can I do anything with gearing to help?
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:16 PM   #14013
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Looking for some help. I am running 69/32 on a high bite indoor carpet track. My 17.5 reedy motor is coming off around 110 degrees with the timing at about 37 degrees. I would like to be able to get some more power on the low end to clear some triples. Right now I can clear the triples through the first half of my pack but not the second.

Can I do anything with gearing to help?
Your motor is cool but your still getting fade so maybe a new/better lipo is needed, slipper eliminator and 3 gear transmission will help with acceleration and punch, you should be able to turn the timing up too, 37 is low.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:21 PM   #14014
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Your motor is cool but your still getting fade so maybe a new/better lipo is needed, slipper eliminator and 3 gear transmission will help with acceleration and punch, you should be able to turn the timing up too, 37 is low.
Already running the slipper eliminator and the 3 gear. Just tried a new orion 4500 100c lipo also as i thought my Reedy 4100 was weak.
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:16 AM   #14015
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Go to a 78 spur, and try a 24 tooth pinion and then change from there based on feel and temp. I don't see a reason to run an 81 tooth spur.
X2, I started running outdoors on a loose track and going to 78/24 or even 25 was a huge improvement overall. The car had better grip and more controllable out of turns. For me it really cut down on wheel spin and pushes the weight further back over the wheels.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:19 AM   #14016
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I was using trim. But what is the difference?

Also, anybody know why my steering turnbuckles have to be different length to achieve the same toe on each side? One turnbuckle has to be 25mm and one has to be 28.5mm. Steering seems to be at center.
Lets say that when your steering wheel is centered, you can turn your steering wheel 90 degrees to the left before it stops, and also 90 degrees to the right before it stops.

Using trim to center your steering is like holding the steering wheel off center to go straight. Now lets say you have to hold it say 45 degrees to the left to go straight. If your wheel can only go 90 degrees to the left total, you can only turn another 45 degrees and that's as far as your left turn will go.

By using sub trim, you move the center point on your steering, and the end points also shift with it. You now have a new center point for your steering, giving you a full 90 degrees off center in this case for right and left turns.
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:46 AM   #14017
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Looking for some help. I am running 69/32 on a high bite indoor carpet track. My 17.5 reedy motor is coming off around 110 degrees with the timing at about 37 degrees. I would like to be able to get some more power on the low end to clear some triples. Right now I can clear the triples through the first half of my pack but not the second.

Can I do anything with gearing to help?
You're putting a lot of load on the motor with your grip level. This inturn puts a lot of emphasis on the battery and electronics.

What ESC are you running?

Turn the timing up on the motor, first off. I have ZERO experience with the Reedy motor, however most run them around 45-35 degrees.

What is the IR on your battery? What weight is the car?
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:29 AM   #14018
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I was running about 42 deg of timing on my reedy 17.5. But 110 deg....that is really low heat for that gearing.


Like Socket said, what does your car weight. The more weight you have to lug around the track, the more drain on your packs. And less "pop"
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:17 AM   #14019
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Anyone know if the Schelle slipper setup is lighter than the older V2 - 2 pad setup?
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:32 AM   #14020
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Default changed motors from a 17.5 to 13.5

I changed the motor in my B5M Lite from 17.5 to 13.5 and its flying now.. I did leave the gearing at 69/33 and the timing is turned to 40.

I would like to hear from others on what for speed should the gearing be or can I learn it like this...
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:47 AM   #14021
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I changed the motor in my B5M Lite from 17.5 to 13.5 and its flying now.. I did leave the gearing at 69/33 and the timing is turned to 40.

I would like to hear from others on what for speed should the gearing be or can I learn it like this...
In your class of racing, speed is the least of your worries. Your gearing should be fine, however I'd recommend you check temps after 3 minutes, and again at 6 minutes.I dint believe novice will run an 8 minute main.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:55 AM   #14022
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I changed the motor in my B5M Lite from 17.5 to 13.5 and its flying now.. I did leave the gearing at 69/33 and the timing is turned to 40.

I would like to hear from others on what for speed should the gearing be or can I learn it like this...
33/69 with 40 deg of timing on a 13.5......I am sure it is real fast...
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:31 AM   #14023
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Anyone know if the Schelle slipper setup is lighter than the older V2 - 2 pad setup?
Yes, It's 5 grams lighter than a V2 2-pad slipper. It's also more compact with the weight closer to the axis of rotation which also aides in improved acceleration.
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:08 AM   #14024
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Originally Posted by Photocycler View Post
Looking for some help. I am running 69/32 on a high bite indoor carpet track. My 17.5 reedy motor is coming off around 110 degrees with the timing at about 37 degrees. I would like to be able to get some more power on the low end to clear some triples. Right now I can clear the triples through the first half of my pack but not the second.

Can I do anything with gearing to help?
what is your esc temping at?
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:37 PM   #14025
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Originally Posted by johnathanmsmith View Post
I changed the motor in my B5M Lite from 17.5 to 13.5 and its flying now.. I did leave the gearing at 69/33 and the timing is turned to 40.

I would like to hear from others on what for speed should the gearing be or can I learn it like this...
My Lite, which I've been able to get down to 1398g RTR, could probably survive that gearing with a 13.5. That being said, unless your that light, or in the neighborhood, I'd move to 69/30. I think you'll enjoy the extra bottom end that you'll gain. I bet the car will feel faster. Last summer I ran 75/30 in my normal weight B5M with a 13.5 and that worked really well with a slipper eliminator on our super high grip sugared surface.

Just as FYI, I'm adding weight back into my car as it doesn't feel right at that weight. It was just an experiment. With the chassis liner, skid plate, and a couple of pieces of foam the car is around 1425 which is still too light. I was just saying....
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