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Old 05-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #13876
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Okay, I have a 17.5T stock motor on the way as well as some new pinions and spur gears for the Nova Slipper Clutch to get the gear ratio right.

Also have some JC Gold Dirt Webs coming too and the programming board to take me to a stock firmware.

Will run stock for a few months and leave the 7.5 as a trophy on the shelf to aspire to put back in when ready.

Thanks for all the help guys, helped move the knowledge that much further forward but ultimately the right thing was to get to the right motor to dust off the rust.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:16 PM   #13877
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Another type of throttle "curve" that has worked well for me when I need to slow down my motor but still have good top end on the straight away is to have two straight lines in the "curve". Here's a pic
[IMG][/IMG]

I can set this on my radio, an MT4, in the curves menu. It's the ARC (adjustable rate control) option. I usually sate the point at which the lines meet to 90-98% of full throttle and the rate anywhere from 10-25% depending on the track layout, jumps, etc. Basically it makes my motor feel like a slower motor in the infield without that mushy feeling expo gives you, and I don't lose any top speed on the straight.
I also started to use this instead of expo for my steering, no mush
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:30 PM   #13878
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Another type of throttle "curve" that has worked well for me when I need to slow down my motor but still have good top end on the straight away is to have two straight lines in the "curve". Here's a pic
[IMG][/IMG]

I can set this on my radio, an MT4, in the curves menu. It's the ARC (adjustable rate control) option. I usually sate the point at which the lines meet to 90-98% of full throttle and the rate anywhere from 10-25% depending on the track layout, jumps, etc. Basically it makes my motor feel like a slower motor in the infield without that mushy feeling expo gives you, and I don't lose any top speed on the straight.
I also started to use this instead of expo for my steering, no mush
Ok you techy guys can say all you want on paper but seriously if you back your throttle down to 80% and you imagine it that way then thats what it is. When you start micro managing and seeing into everthing you do its gonna play with your head when you race. So 80% throttle should not give you a full throttle light on the esc therefore your not getting full power to the motor and your car should be easier to control done....! Who cares about mushy or any kind of feeling. Set it so it doesnt feel that way. There has got to be a point to where it feels good to you. This is not rocket science.
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Old 05-21-2015, 03:47 PM   #13879
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Who cares about mushy or any kind of feeling. Set it so it doesnt feel that way. There has got to be a point to where it feels good to you. This is not rocket science.
I say good DAY!

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Old 05-21-2015, 05:57 PM   #13880
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Another type of throttle "curve" that has worked well for me when I need to slow down my motor but still have good top end on the straight away is to have two straight lines in the "curve". Here's a pic
[IMG][/IMG]

I can set this on my radio, an MT4, in the curves menu. It's the ARC (adjustable rate control) option. I usually sate the point at which the lines meet to 90-98% of full throttle and the rate anywhere from 10-25% depending on the track layout, jumps, etc. Basically it makes my motor feel like a slower motor in the infield without that mushy feeling expo gives you, and I don't lose any top speed on the straight.
I also started to use this instead of expo for my steering, no mush
I like that. I've been playing around with using minimal timing advance at the motor or in the ESC but then adding turbo that kicks in after I'm at WOT for more than half a second. I'm gonna try out your "curve" and see how it feels next time I get to practice.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:11 PM   #13881
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish View Post
Okay, I have a 17.5T stock motor on the way as well as some new pinions and spur gears for the Nova Slipper Clutch to get the gear ratio right.

Also have some JC Gold Dirt Webs coming too and the programming board to take me to a stock firmware.

Will run stock for a few months and leave the 7.5 as a trophy on the shelf to aspire to put back in when ready.

Thanks for all the help guys, helped move the knowledge that much further forward but ultimately the right thing was to get to the right motor to dust off the rust.
I started at our indoor track with a 6.5 in my 4WD buggy and a 10.5 in my B5M. Best "upgrade" I've done was to buy a 13.5 for the B5M and drop the 10.5 in the D413. And I still put some current limiting in the new motors. Both have plenty of power to be competitive on our track and they are both much, much easier for me to drive.

I've got that almost brand new 6.5 sitting in a drawer if I get to the point where I think the power will be useful for me. But I've got plenty of room to add timing and or current without the motors or speed controllers getting too hot.

-Chris
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:47 AM   #13882
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I started at our indoor track with a 6.5 in my 4WD buggy and a 10.5 in my B5M. Best "upgrade" I've done was to buy a 13.5 for the B5M and drop the 10.5 in the D413. And I still put some current limiting in the new motors. Both have plenty of power to be competitive on our track and they are both much, much easier for me to drive.

I've got that almost brand new 6.5 sitting in a drawer if I get to the point where I think the power will be useful for me. But I've got plenty of room to add timing and or current without the motors or speed controllers getting too hot.

-Chris
Hmm, thanks for this. I've got a 7.5 in my xb4, I may swap my 10.5 in, and see if that's better. 100x40 astroturf track, so plenty of traction.

Just wish they had a 13.5 class for the 2wd buggy. Having way too much issue getting enough speed out of my 17.5 to make the jumps.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:31 AM   #13883
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As we are all discussing EPA I did some further reading and it seems its best practice to back the steering EPA off a few points anyway so the servo is not stressed at its extremes.

Just curious if that's a good general rule with this crew.
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Old 05-22-2015, 09:07 AM   #13884
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As we are all discussing EPA I did some further reading and it seems its best practice to back the steering EPA off a few points anyway so the servo is not stressed at its extremes.

Just curious if that's a good general rule with this crew.
To much servo travel can't be good for your servos but i find if you don't adjust your epa's correctly it leads to prematurely worn front suspension pieces. The excess travel will stretch the plastics and it gets sloppy
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Old 05-22-2015, 09:34 AM   #13885
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish View Post
As we are all discussing EPA I did some further reading and it seems its best practice to back the steering EPA off a few points anyway so the servo is not stressed at its extremes.

Just curious if that's a good general rule with this crew.
sounds like a reasonable thing to do. that is the way I do it. you only need a small amount of adjustment to reduce servo stress. depending on layout, traction, set up, etc. you may find that you do not need max steering anyway.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:56 AM   #13886
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EPA or "End Point Adjustment" affects the extremes of the servo or esc you're using.

Radios either refer to EPA's or "Travel" in the case of Spektrum radios. The adjustment is the same however.

Changing "Curves" in your radio is EXP or "Exponential."

In general I always recommend setting your Epa's to 100/100 when calibrating your esc. Reason for his is when you talk to another driver and you tell them you have your brakes turned down 20%, they can match this(for the most part) in their own radio.

Now if you do decide to calibrate say at 150/150 you will in theory get more "resolution" in the trigger travel. In theory if you have 700 steps in throttle, and 300 steps in brake the trigger travel at 150 calibration will be finer than 100 calibration. You can feel this in most cases. And in "theory" the 100 should feel snappier in throttle response. Try both, it's free and only takes re calibrating your esc.

Take a read HERE
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:59 AM   #13887
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sounds like a reasonable thing to do. that is the way I do it. you only need a small amount of adjustment to reduce servo stress. depending on layout, traction, set up, etc. you may find that you do not need max steering anyway.
Hypothetical situation for you. Your car ends up close to a wall or track barrier at an angle where if you have full steering throw you can just turn away from it without getting stuck, but if you limited steering throw by lowering your EPA you can't turn tight enough to avoid the wall and now you have to wait for a marshal. Now how smart is it to have anything less than full steering throw? By all means use dual rate and exponential to adjust the feeling of the steering, but I would never want to limit the actual amount of steering throw my car has to anything less than the physical limit allowed by the design of the car.
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:09 PM   #13888
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The curve picture you posted shows exactly what I stated. At the beginning of your trigger pull, moving the trigger X percent changes the speed of the motor by a small amount. But you don't get that for free. If the first 50 percent of your physical trigger movement only controls the first 30 percent of the throttle signal to your motor, the remaining 50 percent of your physical trigger pull has to control the other 70 percent of the throttle signal. So you are gaining lower speed throttle control/resolution by sacrificing higher speed throttle control/resolution.

Emmmmm .... The first part of the curve has a mild reaction time. Then when in the later part of the curve it become closer to the liner curve which is faster and more responsive. Not really seeing how you're sacrificing higher speed throttle control. anyways..

You are not using minimum throttle the way Tekin intends. Not that there is anything wrong with that if it works for you. What they tell you to do is increase minimum throttle one notch at a time until barely moving your trigger makes your car barely start to move. Then you are done setting it.

There is a bit more to Throttle min than that...I play with throttle min's all the time. Depends on the track.

Taken from the Tekin site:

Throttle Minimum:

Throttle minimum is a great adjustment to fine tune your throttle feel or “punch” feel. Throttle minimum by default is set pretty conservatively since our esc’s can be used from anything from a Rock Crawler to a Modified TC car.

T-Min (throttle minimum) controls the initial power being applied to the motor. The lower then number; the less power is applied initially to the motor. The opposite is true at higher settings. Now I personally setup my cars both mod and stock with this setting individually. What I mean by that is that I take each car, race ready and set it on the ground. I then touch the trigger and when I KNOW 100% that I’m inducing throttle(verified by the esc’s led moving from led #4 to led #1) I want that car to begin rolling..Very slowly of course. I don’t want it to “hum” or stall out, rock back and forth or simply not move. I also don’t want it lunge forward too hard. So if your car is “stalling” at that initial trigger press, increase the T-min until it no longer does.

Typically on say a 2wd Stock mid motor buggy with a free drivetrain, 8-10 will work. The same car in rear motor configuration for example with the same gearing may only need 6-8 to attain the same feel. A 1/12 17.5 Stock pan car that runs nearly a 1:1 drive ration may need something much higher; 15-20 for example.

Many factors affect this setting: Motor type, motor timing, gearing, car weight, transmission style, radio system, and driver preference are all factors here.

No setting is “magic” and each one varies from car to car, driver to driver.

This setting however is a favorite of the stock driver as a higher setting often feels like a “punchier” car to the driver.


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Old 05-22-2015, 08:44 PM   #13889
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Coming from JConcepts and made for the Team Associated B5M buggy is an aluminium wing mounts and buttons set. The rear wing mount of the B5M vehicle is under a serious load during crashes and inevitable direct landings so JConcepts has beefed up the wing mount area with the introduction of the aluminium mounts specifically designed for this buggy. Made from CNC-machined aluminium and available in blue and black colour, these mounts are designed in a creative but functional way to add rigidity to a high-impact area. A direct bolt-on part adds security, high-end looks and peace of mind for the hard-core basher and racer. Securing the wing to the mounts is made easy with the included Finnisher style aluminium wing buttons which accept a 3mm flat head screw. The use of these parts in conjunction with JConcept’s optional aluminium wing shim adds durability and a direct clamp to the assembly. The added boss on the wing mounts also aligns the pre-cut B5M Hi-Clearance wing perfectly for a show quality look, fit and finish.


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Old 05-22-2015, 08:56 PM   #13890
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Hypothetical situation for you. Your car ends up close to a wall or track barrier at an angle where if you have full steering throw you can just turn away from it without getting stuck, but if you limited steering throw by lowering your EPA you can't turn tight enough to avoid the wall and now you have to wait for a marshal. Now how smart is it to have anything less than full steering throw? By all means use dual rate and exponential to adjust the feeling of the steering, but I would never want to limit the actual amount of steering throw my car has to anything less than the physical limit allowed by the design of the car.
We are suggesting reducing epa by several clicks which will not make a difference per your example.
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