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Old 05-19-2015, 11:33 AM
  #13831  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ALso, I would install the "Stock" firmware.
Is it worth the change in firmware? ie purchase the programming box to do so if I was not going to run in stock races? (just asking)
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:37 AM
  #13832  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
Is it worth the change in firmware? ie purchase the programming box to do so if I was not going to run in stock races? (just asking)
Probably find someone at the track with the box that can help.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:00 PM
  #13833  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
Is it worth the change in firmware? ie purchase the programming box to do so if I was not going to run in stock races? (just asking)
you can get a USB adapter for cheap from Hobbyking. How are you changing the settings without the box?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...A_60A_ESC.html
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:06 PM
  #13834  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you can get a USB adapter for cheap from Hobbyking. How are you changing the settings without the box?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...A_60A_ESC.html
Using the set button next to the on switch to go through menu options and select settings. Relatively easy to go through. I'll check out the hobbyking cable though, thanks. It works unofficially on Orion ESC's?
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:11 PM
  #13835  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
Using the set button next to the on switch to go through menu options and select settings. Relatively easy to go through. I'll check out the hobbyking cable though, thanks. It works unofficially on Orion ESC's?

Don't worry about a firmware change. Buy the correct tires, turn boost off and get a slower motor and spin laps.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:22 PM
  #13836  
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Originally Posted by Socket
Don't worry about a firmware change. Buy the correct tires, turn boost off and get a slower motor and spin laps.
Thanks Socket, do you think go all the way down to 17.5 or stay in mod class with a 13.5 perhaps? Trinity seems popular but was keeping Orion combo with initial purchase. Will commit to buying these evening I think..
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:30 PM
  #13837  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
Thanks Socket, do you think go all the way down to 17.5 or stay in mod class with a 13.5 perhaps? Trinity seems popular but was keeping Orion combo with initial purchase. Will commit to buying these evening I think..
trinity stock motors are fine. I like 13.5 because the whole weight thing and motor temp thing is less of an issue. No need for a motor fan and still good power for the track. I dont race at your track or have any idea on the turn out. If your track has a rookie 17.5 class that might be fun. If they have an A, B and C main in mod buggy with a wide range of talent, I would try a 13.5 in mod to keep costs down. If you just plan to practice and have fun and not race, definitely a 13.5. should be decent power for most jumps and again loser motor temps.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:46 PM
  #13838  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
Thanks Socket, do you think go all the way down to 17.5 or stay in mod class with a 13.5 perhaps? Trinity seems popular but was keeping Orion combo with initial purchase. Will commit to buying these evening I think..
Buy a 17.5. You have a huge class of 17.5 racers locally that are super friendly and run your same combo. Pick whatever brand of 17.5 you'd like, it'll be just fine for right now.

Gold dirt webs and focus on putting in laps.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:52 PM
  #13839  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
12.3 rotors are fail in offroad imo
I just took the rotor out of my Team Powers Actinium 17.5 motor. It measured 12.5

If you don't know the facts, why did you post that comment about 12.3 rotors? You know that people read stuff on this forum and assume that we know what we are talking about, right?

Next time you need somthing measured, PM me and I'll bust out my calipers
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:53 PM
  #13840  
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From Amain

This is a Team Powers 17.5 Turn Actinium Competition Sensored Brushless Motor.

Features:
Variable End bell for easy timing changes to alter the output power and torque of the motor
Includes ROAR spec rotor
Updated neodymium sintered rotor and air flow convection system that can lower temperatures by 5~10'C
Easy assembly. Remove three screws to remove the rotor without the need to disassemble the end bell and sensor board
Thicker low resistance wire for more power

Specifications:
Design Specification: Based on IFMAR/ROAR/EFRA/BRCA
Motor Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 35.8x51mm
Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm
Magnet Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 12.3x24mm (10.5~17.5 turn)
Weight: 165g (5g lighter than the previous model)
Application: 1/10 car, buggy, truck
kV: 2200
This product was added to our catalog on January 19, 2015.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:55 PM
  #13841  
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Originally Posted by Fast Little Car
I just took the rotor out of my Team Powers Actinium 17.5 motor. It measured 12.5

If you don't know the facts, why did you post that comment about 12.3 rotors? You know that people read stuff on this forum and assume that we know what we are talking about, right?

Next time you need somthing measured, PM me and I'll bust out my calipers
I also just checked team powers website. Same information.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:02 PM
  #13842  
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Duly noted, I'll look into the matter. Kinda weird I got a 12.5
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast Little Car
Duly noted, I'll look into the matter. Kinda weird I got a 12.5
no need to jump my case. I was looking into the Team Powers motors because I have seen the name a lot recently. Viper also ships stock motors with 12.3mm rotors and makes you buy the 12.5 separately. Make sure you dont have a mod rotor.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:42 PM
  #13844  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
no need to jump my case.
Agreed, my apologies, my bad!

The 12.3 spec on the 17.5 rotor could be a misprint, unless they changed the spec on the motors they are shipping out now. I have contacted Team Powers USA regarding the matter and hopefully we'll have a conclusive answer in just a few minutes
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:38 PM
  #13845  
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Originally Posted by bizarrefish
ESC - Orion RC10.1 - Note I didn't select boost, it was out of the box but I knew I needed to dial quite a few settings down. I guess you could argue that by not dialing it down straight of the box I in effect selected boost :-).

I'll get a stock 17.5 and do some months of running under this, I'm taking up the hobby again as I have 3 & 2 year old sons that love watching SDRC practices already. When I get the inevitable kits in a couple of years time the 17.5 can be used by them.

Hey lesson learned guys and I've received great feedback that has improved my knowledge ten fold. Note, I did not just jump into this without research, it took me 6 months to hit the buy button and I have an evernote of 50 articles, spreadsheets of gear formula's etc. Just didn't do enough research I guess and had presumed veteran skill would help me a little. Just need to brush off the rust. Until I hit the clay I was never going to be able to measure the skill and speed.

Also you find that different sites and youtube videos have varying degrees of trust associated with them. I know some sources are less useful than others now.

Great community here when you raise a topic with enough heat for comments :-). I'm sitting here with a smile reading all of them.

Just go out there and practice as much as you can and ask as many questions at the track as you do here. No replacement for the local knowledge.

Be careful on some of this advise. Guys seem to have no problem spending your money. The 7.5 will be fine at a big high bite facility like SDRC when the turbo boost/timing boost is disabled and your throttle EPA's dropped to 80-90% in my opinion. Let us know how your next track putting goes and what improvement you make!
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