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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:55 PM   #13756
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I know they all look the same.. But what the heck, here is a couple of photos of my Lite I finally finished. I try really hard to make my installs look clean, and I try my best painting the bodies considering I use rattle cans.

My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:
  • Shock pistons needed a little shimming to keep the pistons tight.
  • If you don't buy the optional set screws, there is a bit of slop in the lower control arms at the hinge pins. I originally shimmed this, but eventually got set screws for the front and aluminum hubs in the rear.
  • 2 Ballstups were missing the hex head - they were just rounded. Speaking of ballstuds the aluminum hubs should come with ballstuds, they require a different length ballstud than what comes with the kit. Just one more thing to order.
  • I wish AE had better quality control over their anodizing.
  • I am tickled pink to finally have an AE car and be able to use my metric tools!
  • Shocks felt Kyosho-smooth.
  • Smooth and fun build, the usual great AE directions.

I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.

Anyway, here is a couple photos:




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Old 05-14-2015, 08:57 PM   #13757
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Different pitch to the tooth.
thanks for the info. never thought about that. thought it was the hole diameter.
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:52 PM   #13758
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike View Post
I know they all look the same.. But what the heck, here is a couple of photos of my Lite I finally finished. I try really hard to make my installs look clean, and I try my best painting the bodies considering I use rattle cans.

My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:
  • Shock pistons needed a little shimming to keep the pistons tight.
  • If you don't buy the optional set screws, there is a bit of slop in the lower control arms at the hinge pins. I originally shimmed this, but eventually got set screws for the front and aluminum hubs in the rear.
  • 2 Ballstups were missing the hex head - they were just rounded. Speaking of ballstuds the aluminum hubs should come with ballstuds, they require a different length ballstud than what comes with the kit. Just one more thing to order.
  • I wish AE had better quality control over their anodizing.
  • I am tickled pink to finally have an AE car and be able to use my metric tools!
  • Shocks felt Kyosho-smooth.
  • Smooth and fun build, the usual great AE directions.

I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.
Looks great and nice job using the rattle cans. Now take a lighter to the spring color tubing and shrink those!

I don't know what your track is like, but mine is high traction indoor clay and I hated the Proline Electrons! Dirt Webs are great, but I love AKA Chain Links.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:00 PM   #13759
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Looks great and nice job using the rattle cans. Now take a lighter to the spring color tubing and shrink those!
Thanks! And thanks for the reminder about the shrink tubing on the springs. I still need to break in the diff and set the camber as well. It is amazing how I would have likely had this done in a day or two back in the day when I was single with no kids. Married with kids, building a car takes an eternity

I am going to try to get to TRCR this Thursday if I can. I usually get there around 11 (when the track is a lot slicker than I would like) and spend the entire day there and leave right around the time the track has good bite in it. It isn't racing, but I get my fix!
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:05 PM   #13760
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike View Post
Thanks! And thanks for the reminder about the shrink tubing on the springs. I still need to break in the diff and set the camber as well. It is amazing how I would have likely had this done in a day or two back in the day when I was single with no kids. Married with kids, building a car takes an eternity

I am going to try to get to TRCR this Thursday if I can. I usually get there around 11 (when the track is a lot slicker than I would like) and spend the entire day there and leave right around the time the track has good bite in it. It isn't racing, but I get my fix!
11 is a good time if there are people there already running. The more people driving the faster the track dries. Monday and Wednesday mornings usually have a good turnout since practice is free on those days for club members.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:54 AM   #13761
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Look at the B5m FL instruction manual.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...000_Manual.pdf
Thanks
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:20 AM   #13762
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Default Thanks but on last question Anti Squat !

Thanks for all the help guys I'm researching on anti squat and what I found seems like an argument . Which will add more rear traction during acceleration more or less anti squat?
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:36 AM   #13763
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Thanks for all the help guys I'm researching on anti squat and what I found seems like an argument . Which will add more rear traction during acceleration more or less anti squat?
Less. More anti squat means that your car resist more weight transfer from front to rear during acceleration (IOW car will squat less).

More accurately, less anti squat dont just add traction to rear. It also takes it away from front. -> Weight transfer is also traction transfer.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:00 AM   #13764
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Originally Posted by DustinEich View Post
Anybody have a RTR weight on their Lite? I am at 1520.
Without a battery I'm at 1300g's. So with one of my batteries I am at 1510g rtr, and the other battery i'm at 1517g's.

Oh, and this is on a regular B5m, not a lite.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:29 AM   #13765
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What are the advantages or effects of using the B5rm front arms and tower. Guys have mentioned I'm running to much motor with a 7.5 I agree but track doesn't run a sportsman 13.5 or 17.5 stock class so I have to swim with the sharks
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:55 AM   #13766
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I run a 17.5 when I run mod.....you can run whatever motor you want in mod. run what you can handle. the rm rear arms gain rear traction. the flat front arms smooth out steering. your mileage may very
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:49 AM   #13767
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Originally Posted by Mac126 View Post
What are the advantages or effects of using the B5rm front arms and tower. Guys have mentioned I'm running to much motor with a 7.5 I agree but track doesn't run a sportsman 13.5 or 17.5 stock class so I have to swim with the sharks
I think the gull wings lower your roll center. The flat arms seem to make the car turn smoother and add stability. I have only found the gullwing arms to work well in situations where traction is really low.

If a 7.5 is too much then I'd suggest trying a 10.5 or 13.5. I doubt that you're truly going to get out motored unless you have a 75-100 ft straight or gigantic doubles or triples that you need immense thrust to get over. Most guys can drive a 17.5 car faster than anything else. Admitting that is tough to do but its the truth. Even a 10.5 in a buggy is too much for most guys.

Its funny, but I think I have it figured out. People think mod is actually faster because Pros and chassis sponsored guys don't run stock. The manufacturers don't pay contingency money for stock classes so people never see how hard a pro could rail a a stock car. The reason there is such a battle raging in stock classes these days is not because of super-chargers, hot batteries, hot motors, or light cars, rather its because cars have come so far that classes should no longer be based on equipment classification, but rather driver skill. I think fast guys are cherry picking and probably shouldn't be racing the classes they do and the guys that try really hard but can't make the A main just get overly butt hurt about it and complain about getting out motored or out lipo'd....whatever the excuse. More skilled drivers are always going to be faster.
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Last edited by QDRHRSE; 05-15-2015 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:07 AM   #13768
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too much motor is way worse than too little. I am always faster and more consistent with a 17.5/13.5 in 2wd. Some layouts I could less or more motor, but overall, I just do better with slower motors. I run a 17.5/13.5 in mod buggy and a 10.5 in mod 4wd. Thinking you need a 7.5 in mod is silly.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:10 AM   #13769
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I agree the 7.5 came with car unfortunately track is popular with 1/8 so large straights huge jump section but I will buy a smaller motor thanks for opinions
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:12 AM   #13770
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mac, you can turn it down with the EPA also. drop it to like 85% and go from there
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