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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:03 PM   #13516
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What's the difference between the bi-metal pucks and the normal pucks? Just lighter? If so, by how much
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:20 PM   #13517
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The shiny #14190 are meant for use in mod class and the bi-metal #14230 are for 17.5 class.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:11 AM   #13518
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The shiny #14190 are meant for use in mod class and the bi-metal #14230 are for 17.5 class.
Ahhh. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:57 AM   #13519
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So I'm doing a new Lite build with the MIP pucks. I accidentally built the diff using the supplied AE kit thrust washers/balls. Is it okay to use this? Or do I need to absolutely use the MIP included washers/balls?
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:34 AM   #13520
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Use whatever diff parts you want.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:53 AM   #13521
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No. The chassis itself is very rigid.

As usual, some others have their own opinion.
You are 100% correct sir. I emailed Associated last night and they just got back to me. It won't affect the car at all.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:56 AM   #13522
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So I'm doing a new Lite build with the MIP pucks. I accidentally built the diff using the supplied AE kit thrust washers/balls. Is it okay to use this? Or do I need to absolutely use the MIP included washers/balls?
you need to use caged or the MIP thrust. those retain the balls and keep them from scoring the outdrive.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:12 AM   #13523
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check yo balls man. everyone knows this.

ice cube said it best.. "check yo self before you wreck yo self"

Which was also a great sample reuse from "The Message" - Grand Master Flash and the Furious Five.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:08 AM   #13524
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Thanks for the info. I will rebuild my diff tonight.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:11 AM   #13525
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Running a Novak balistic 17.5, 69/31 right now. I'm thinking of getting another motor. I bought it used, and used it for a season in 17.5 sct. I've narrowed my choice to the Trinity d4 1s short stack, or the hobbywing bandit. Any thoughts of either? Anyone run them both?
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:00 AM   #13526
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Has anyone encountered their rear wheels rubbing against the tops of the hubs on either the ballstud locknut or the plastic itself? On my AE wheels there's very light grooves in the plastic but on my DE ones its relatively deeper.

Wonder if it's making my electronics heat up faster..
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #13527
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Wonder if it's making my electronics heat up faster..
Any excess drag could increase heat. But since they're already grooved, they may have clearance now, and be a non issue at this point. I haven't noticed it on mine.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:19 PM   #13528
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Anybody using a trinity d4 17.5? Is the 1s faster? Has anyone tried it?
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:34 PM   #13529
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Running a Novak balistic 17.5, 69/31 right now. I'm thinking of getting another motor. I bought it used, and used it for a season in 17.5 sct. I've narrowed my choice to the Trinity d4 1s short stack, or the hobbywing bandit. Any thoughts of either? Anyone run them both?
The Bandit is faster. No contest. However, the Bandit is not ROAR legal. If you club race and there are no specific rules the Bandit is the way to go. Its faster than a Big Blue and half the price. If you need to be ROAR legal the 1s D4 is a great choice. I have even had great luck with the regular Maxilla version of the D4.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:43 PM   #13530
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So I'm doing a new Lite build with the MIP pucks. I accidentally built the diff using the supplied AE kit thrust washers/balls. Is it okay to use this? Or do I need to absolutely use the MIP included washers/balls?

I asked around about this a few times. One guy here said he was running stock thrust in MIP without issue. Rebuilt mine 3 (15-20 packs) track days ago with stock and its been fine. YMMV.
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