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Old 01-01-2014, 07:03 AM   #121
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So being that I am one of those "on the fence" people, do you think I would be happy with the B5M? I currently race B4s and will be keeping one of them for my son. I generally race on medium bite tracks, but occasionally I run on a lower traction dusty track. I just can't decide between mid and rear.
rear.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:26 AM   #122
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To all the ball diff experts out there--interesting that AE went from 12 up to 14 balls--the TLR guys didn't seem to be big fans of the 14 ball diffs--wonder how this will play out.....
TLR just went through this with the 22. I recall there being lots of problems and many went to the 12 ball gear. Hard to tell how much the extra 2 diff balls contributed. I am of the opinion that the majority of their problems were caused by the choice to save $$ and spec cheap chrome-steel balls (I also think they believed 14 balls would let them get away with this) and a flood of newer racers coming from SCT racing without several years of experience with ball diff's.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:48 AM   #123
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Very good point indeed!! The dedicated "mid's" run a 4 gear tranny. I believe the "theory" is the 4-gear allows the motor to now spin forward which provides an inertia benefit.
I also know through experience with the X-Factory that they redesigned the rear arm geometry to better assist with rear traction.
So to summarize I think the cvd-bind, the rear arm geometry and the 4 gear tranny all benefit the dedicated MM design.
What intrigues me about the B5M is they went to the gull-wing front arms. They stated that these arms worked great on the mid while the rear benefitted more utizlizing straight arms. Am very interested to experience this--sounds like yet another evolution in these awesome mid-motor designs!!
As a side note--people shouldn't criticize any company that offers dedicated RM or MM designs. For the SERIOUS racer this is the only way to go.
I still think the biggest advantage to a dedicated mm chassis is getting the weight in the right spot with the battery placement. Inline batteries on the mm conversion cars get the rear weight to about 62% max, while a side by side saddle arrangement can get the weight up to 65%+ on the rear, which is close to what a RM is with the battery all the way forward. I struggled for a while with my mm dex to get it to hook up before I chopped up a chassis to get the weight in the right spot. Instant difference. That's when I learned weight distribution is key.

I think people will be surprised when they try the b5m on surfaces they wouldn't normally think to run MM, especially if they tried a convertible car before.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:59 AM   #124
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So being that I am one of those "on the fence" people, do you think I would be happy with the B5M? I currently race B4s and will be keeping one of them for my son. I generally race on medium bite tracks, but occasionally I run on a lower traction dusty track. I just can't decide between mid and rear.
You can get away with the mid-motor on less than ideal track conditions it just takes some tuning on the car and also tunning of the brain. A lot of people keep saying mm is only good for this or that and the pros are only going to run this to promote it. Their wrong. Pros run to win.And as we've seen even if that means not having a production made car.
But what most people are not realizing is you need to drive most mm cars different than you do a RM. I know a lot of people have driven RM for many many years and it is like learning to drive all over again for me when I went mm but has been a fun and really rewarding process learning something new.The new and having to learn a new way is tough for a lot of people and makes them have a bad taste. It is hard to teach an old dog new tricks but can be rewarding.
If you go mm be patient learn the car and driving style.running 3 packs or even one week with a new kind of car isn't necessarily going to be long enough. Some pick it up quick some others like me it takes alittle longer.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:43 AM   #125
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You can get away with the mid-motor on less than ideal track conditions it just takes some tuning on the car and also tunning of the brain. A lot of people keep saying mm is only good for this or that and the pros are only going to run this to promote it. Their wrong. Pros run to win.And as we've seen even if that means not having a production made car.
But what most people are not realizing is you need to drive most mm cars different than you do a RM. I know a lot of people have driven RM for many many years and it is like learning to drive all over again for me when I went mm but has been a fun and really rewarding process learning something new.The new and having to learn a new way is tough for a lot of people and makes them have a bad taste. It is hard to teach an old dog new tricks but can be rewarding.
If you go mm be patient learn the car and driving style.running 3 packs or even one week with a new kind of car isn't necessarily going to be long enough. Some pick it up quick some others like me it takes alittle longer.
Thank you. I am thinking I will get the mid motor and then I will have both a mid and a rear buggy. My son and I can take turns driving each so that we can experience the different driving styles.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:00 AM   #126
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looks like a tight fit for rx and esc
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:02 AM   #127
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Thank you. I am thinking I will get the mid motor and then I will have both a mid and a rear buggy. My son and I can take turns driving each so that we can experience the different driving styles.
I agree with your plan--and I think you'll be happy that you went that route!
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:07 AM   #128
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TLR just went through this with the 22. I recall there being lots of problems and many went to the 12 ball gear. Hard to tell how much the extra 2 diff balls contributed. I am of the opinion that the majority of their problems were caused by the choice to save $$ and spec cheap chrome-steel balls (I also think they believed 14 balls would let them get away with this) and a flood of newer racers coming from SCT racing without several years of experience with ball diff's.
I read a bit earlier that the TLR guys made a determination that the force exerted by the diff rings on 14 balls was more detrimental than the force exerted on 12. They stated that the 14 ball diff actually had a smaller tuning window than the 12 therefore requiring constant tuning to keep the diff where they wanted it. So to summarize they felt that the 12 ball diff stays "in tune" better than the 14. Basic common sense would lead one to believe that the 14 ball concept would last longer however--and maybe that's why the appeal to the mass public??
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:16 AM   #129
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The ball diff in the DEX210 uses 3mm balls, and uses 14 of them. It's the single best diff I have ever run (too bad about the rest of the car), and it's "tuning window" didn't feel any different. Actually.. i think it might of been slightly more forgiving. Im excited to hear that AE went with a 14 ball diff. I assume it will be 2.4mm ?
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:39 AM   #130
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A lot of 22 people are buying the XXX diff gear so they can run only 12 balls. Doesn't mean 14 won't be good-erer on the B5 but the TLR diffs definately have some problems.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:27 PM   #131
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Some of you guys are so full of crap that I can't contain myself. The diffs in these cars are all basically made from the same parts. The 22 diffs suck and always will because of the materials. If you buy BFast parts for a Kyosho diff, an AE, and a TLR how could one be smoother than the other? Same parts. The design is basically the same! The only exception is that the diff with more balls theoretically should be smoother because there is more surface contact between the balls and plates and each ball [theoretically] has less psi of pressure being exerted on it. I'm not an engineer but this is not rocket science either. What I'm saying is that nobody's diff is better than anyone elses barring Durrango which is a little different...I only built a couple of those. Its been a while. I don't remember anything other than the weird cir clips and what happened if you put them in upside down. Anyway, a diff is pretty much a diff. If AE decides to step up the quality of the materials then there could be a substantial difference. More balls should be better as you should be able to get more clamping pressure on the diff rings.

On a side note, mid motored cars, pretty much all the Kyosho cars, have been doing well locally in all traction types. I'll probably convert everything to mid motor eventually.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:50 PM   #132
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Some of you guys are so full of crap that I can't contain myself. The diffs in these cars are all basically made from the same parts. The 22 diffs suck and always will because of the materials. If you buy BFast parts for a Kyosho diff, an AE, and a TLR how could one be smoother than the other? Same parts. The design is basically the same! The only exception is that the diff with more balls theoretically should be smoother because there is more surface contact between the balls and plates and each ball [theoretically] has less psi of pressure being exerted on it. I'm not an engineer but this is not rocket science either. What I'm saying is that nobody's diff is better than anyone elses barring Durrango which is a little different...I only built a couple of those. Its been a while. I don't remember anything other than the weird cir clips and what happened if you put them in upside down. Anyway, a diff is pretty much a diff. If AE decides to step up the quality of the materials then there could be a substantial difference. More balls should be better as you should be able to get more clamping pressure on the diff rings.

On a side note, mid motored cars, pretty much all the Kyosho cars, have been doing well locally in all traction types. I'll probably convert everything to mid motor eventually.
Not saying your wrong, but your not right. Try a MIP diff, my month old one is smoother than a brand new AE, don't know why but it is.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:00 PM   #133
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The ball diff in the DEX210 uses 3mm balls, and uses 14 of them. It's the single best diff I have ever run (too bad about the rest of the car), and it's "tuning window" didn't feel any different. Actually.. i think it might of been slightly more forgiving. Im excited to hear that AE went with a 14 ball diff. I assume it will be 2.4mm ?
lol. So true. My ball diff on my 210 lasted just about forever. The shocks were great too. It was just so much easier to tune one of my other buggies to the track.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:17 PM   #134
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this might have covered already, if so my bad, but with the new front hex design will there be new B5 specific rims or will current Associated rims work?
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:39 PM   #135
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iam all over this buggy like fat kid on cake lol
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