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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:44 AM   #13456
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Originally Posted by BrandonBreh View Post
Chassis is milled, 3 gear trans, Aluminum top shaft, aluminum ballstud mount, aluminum wheel hexes, aluminum lightweight front axles, titanium turnbuckles, milled motor plate,upgraded bearings.

Doesn't come with rims tho

I think i got it all...
Thank you...I was questioning, I thought earlier someone said teh lite comes with the b5r arms & towers.

I'm just trying to decide if it's worth the cost to get the lite for 17.5, and make my current one a mod buggy, or just stick with my current one for 17.5, and do the little upgrades that it's missing. (3 gear, top shaft, front axles, motor plate, and either lite chassis, or xfactory chassis) I already have the rest on it, and coming in at 1517g's rtr with shorty pack.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:54 AM   #13457
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If you already have most the stuff why get it unless your car is older and you just want new plastic. The lite is good, but I'm sure the b5M is just as good. My stock lite car weighs in at 1550 with all the goodies. (aside from pucks and lite pack)
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:06 PM   #13458
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Thank you...I was questioning, I thought earlier someone said teh lite comes with the b5r arms & towers.

I'm just trying to decide if it's worth the cost to get the lite for 17.5, and make my current one a mod buggy, or just stick with my current one for 17.5, and do the little upgrades that it's missing. (3 gear, top shaft, front axles, motor plate, and either lite chassis, or xfactory chassis) I already have the rest on it, and coming in at 1517g's rtr with shorty pack.
The b5m lite does come with the b5 rear arms and tower and flat front arms,along with items mentioned earlier.
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:19 PM   #13459
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The b5m lite does come with the b5 rear arms and tower and flat front arms,along with items mentioned earlier.
Thank you, that is stuff I do not have....I'll have to see if anyone has the b5 arms & stuff and try their car out, just to see what is different about the handling.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:03 PM   #13460
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I thought the rear motor front arms and tower made the steering feel more linear throughout the corner. My son actually preferred the mid motor arms and tower. I agree, you need to try it yourself to see what you think.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:12 PM   #13461
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Which wing holes does everyone run? The forward or back positions?
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:28 PM   #13462
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Which wing holes does everyone run? The forward or back positions?
Try both! Or do what I did, cut the nubs off the wing mount, drill down through, and use a screw with a large, flat head to clamp the wing down. Then you're free to make a slot in the wing and have full adjustability
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:01 AM   #13463
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Sorry if it's already been said, but the setup sheets from the stock Nats are posted on AE's site.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:49 AM   #13464
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Hey guys

which updates would you suggest to buy first ? I am totally unsure what is really needed and a good choice and whats just for the bling bling effect.
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:35 AM   #13465
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MIP Pucks and or Schelle Clutch
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:31 AM   #13466
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We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.

When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.

Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:33 AM   #13467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the greaser View Post
Hey guys I just wanted to let everyone oh here know about a new company making custom Diff parts for the B5 series. Check them out at www.slickdiffz.com
*added to the front page.

Bfast, TKO, and now this company. Schelle? Exotek? Who's next?
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #13468
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.

When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.

Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
30* block
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:05 PM   #13469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.

When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.

Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
I could be wrong but it looks like Cav is running a green front spring
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:28 PM   #13470
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Anybody having problems with a shock sitting on the mount? I have the aluminum mounts and there is a ton of play between the shock and the mount.
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