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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:38 AM   #13381
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Victornet from nyc has RH 2mm taps, starting, plug and bottoming. Rdg tools (UK) has right and left hand taps in all 3. Just remember that the turnbuckle threads are not metric.
Victornet Machining is awesome. i been there a couple times for metric taps and a bunch of other things. they are out in brooklyn somewhere.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:43 AM   #13382
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Joe do you have a link? I wouldnt like to having a good 3mm tap. I googled "HSS Jobber tap 3mm" and didnt see a good match
cant beat this. usa made, all 3 3mm taps. just get a 2.5mm drill bit to throw in that plastic case and a t-handle if you dont have one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:43 AM   #13383
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I just put together a b5m lite and noticed that it came with the reg front tower and not the rm tower. I though everyone was running the rm tower? Sorry if repetitive question, new to associated
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:59 AM   #13384
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I just put together a b5m lite and noticed that it came with the reg front tower and not the rm tower. I though everyone was running the rm tower? Sorry if repetitive question, new to associated
Contact AE they will send you the RM tower which is what you need for the flat arms. Someone else had that happen too a few pages back.
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:30 AM   #13385
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Default B5 or B5M

So I just got back in to the hobby. I purchased a B5M kit new and a B5 used. I just about have the "M" together but the indoor track that I was going to race it at has a questionable future and might be going out of business. There is an outdoor track that I can run at. It's a lot looser it drys out fast and the traction just isn't there like it would be indoor clay. Should I just run the B5 there and hope the indoor stays open to run the "M"? How does the "M" perform on an outdoor track like that?
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:44 AM   #13386
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I just put together a b5m lite and noticed that it came with the reg front tower and not the rm tower. I though everyone was running the rm tower? Sorry if repetitive question, new to associated
If you bought a B5M car, and it came with the B5M arms and the B5M shock tower, it came with the right parts. If it did not come with a B5 tower, that would be expected as you didn't buy a B5.

If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:04 PM   #13387
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He bought the Factory Lite kit.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:05 PM   #13388
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If you bought a B5M car, and it came with the B5M arms and the B5M shock tower, it came with the right parts. If it did not come with a B5 tower, that would be expected as you didn't buy a B5.

If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.
The lite kit is speced to run the flat arms and tower.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:06 PM   #13389
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Originally Posted by ARB View Post
So I just got back in to the hobby. I purchased a B5M kit new and a B5 used. I just about have the "M" together but the indoor track that I was going to race it at has a questionable future and might be going out of business. There is an outdoor track that I can run at. It's a lot looser it drys out fast and the traction just isn't there like it would be indoor clay. Should I just run the B5 there and hope the indoor stays open to run the "M"? How does the "M" perform on an outdoor track like that?
No. The M is a more than capable outdoor car. You just need to learn to set it up, and correctly drive it.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:09 PM   #13390
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I've been looking, for 17.5 blinky, what is the Optimum FDR I should be shooting for? I'm running a novak balistic 17.5 with 35 degrees on end bell. currently 69t spur, and 31t pinion. which is FDR of 5.78. After a 5 mnute race, I came off at 89 degrees, so I have room to go.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:29 PM   #13391
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Default Shocks issues

I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.

Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.

Last edited by Cichlid RC; 04-29-2015 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:29 PM   #13392
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
If you bought a B5M car, and it came with the B5M arms and the B5M shock tower, it came with the right parts. If it did not come with a B5 tower, that would be expected as you didn't buy a B5.

If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.

Purchased the lite Kit. Thanks
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:36 PM   #13393
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Originally Posted by Cichlid RC View Post
I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.

Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
I used the FT X rings and did not have any issue.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/team-as...c91493/p275243
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:37 PM   #13394
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Originally Posted by Cichlid RC View Post
I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.

Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
You shouldn't have to do that. Something is wrong. Did you maybe add too many or the wrong spacers in the cartridge? Do you maybe have one or both of the hat bushings in the wrong way. There should be a little bit of friction but not very much and you should be able to tighten the retaining cap all the way.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:41 PM   #13395
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are you trying to reuse the original o-rings that have swelled since first use?
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