Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Gentlemen/ladies, I need some help.
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
2.7 oz thats alot of weight.....a new bottle of shock oil is 2 oz....my track has alot of traction so I might give it a try.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Well raced my 13.5 in modified to see what I could do. Started 4th and finished 4th.
Anyone know that Dustin Evans guy? He's fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpcN...dLpALT3G_WEgOA
Anyone know that Dustin Evans guy? He's fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpcN...dLpALT3G_WEgOA
Tech Rookie
Wrong thread, oops. This is mid-motor!
Last edited by Buggy Buddy; 08-23-2014 at 12:27 AM. Reason: wrong thread
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
Not so much weight really .
The point is its all slamed way low improving the CG for smoother handling on high traction.
On loose track the weight helps improve grip
Works, just try ...
Can trim a little and use less weight , don't recommend it however.
shock oil is a measure of volume, not physical weight. I understand what you mean but its 2 different measurements. 2.7 oz is only roughly 76 gr. its still alot if your running stock and trying to keep that baby on a diet.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I got my Protek Ti screws. I have not tried every brand screw, nor the lunsfords, but the protek ones were heads and shoulders above the tlr 22 screw kits tlr had. They have a more silver finish too. I replace the steel screws, so all of my holes were pre tapped. The only thing is.... they included all of the under the chassis screws and screws for the shock standoffs and arm mounts. I am, not use I want to use TI on the shocks , the transmission screws and the bumper screws. Anyway, if your looking for Ti screws for your car, the protek ones seem solid
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I got my Protek Ti screws. I have not tried every brand screw, nor the lunsfords, but the protek ones were heads and shoulders above the tlr 22 screw kits tlr had. They have a more silver finish too. I replace the steel screws, so all of my holes were pre tapped. The only thing is.... they included all of the under the chassis screws and screws for the shock standoffs and arm mounts. I am, not use I want to use TI on the shocks , the transmission screws and the bumper screws. Anyway, if your looking for Ti screws for your car, the protek ones seem solid
sorry bout that & missing your post here also.
I checked today the differences in the up travel .
The rear tower has about 3mm
The mid tower has less then 1mm but can still bottom out front of chassis.
Can say my ride landings off of the jumps was not changed or effected .
Handling and steering gain a huge improvement.
I checked today the differences in the up travel .
The rear tower has about 3mm
The mid tower has less then 1mm but can still bottom out front of chassis.
Can say my ride landings off of the jumps was not changed or effected .
Handling and steering gain a huge improvement.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Gentlemen/ladies, I need some help.
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Gentlemen/ladies, I need some help.
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
I am new to the racing side of RC. I recently went to my local outdoor track to break in my B5M. I have everything set to factory settings and am using a tekin rs gen2 10.5 turn with tekin gen2 esc. I'm using gold dirt webs. The track was a tad dusty, but not terrible. It looked like a 4wd kind of day but the car was absolutely awful. Constantly spinning the tires and while spinning the car always pulled to one side or the other. Is that a slipper adjustment that needs to be made? Diff adjustment? Should I run softer springs than stock? I'm just lost. I'm sure the car will be fun indoors this winter but I'd like to enjoy it before then.
I also had my SC10 out and while it was tough to drive as well, it had alot more traction than the buggy. I know I'm a terrible driver right now, but I know someone can help me make it a little better.
Help a newbie out, please? I'd really appreciate it. Everything I read from you guys is more centered towards front end handling, doesn't seem like many of you are struggling with rear end traction.
Thanks guys/gals!
On loose track you may want saddles or the shorty fully at the back to gain weight at this end. That's an easy setup change. What ride height are you using ?
Jonathan
Thnx WC that is what I was looking for
Tech Initiate
Is there a setup section on this forum that I'm overlooking or something? I can't find any of these setups y'all are talking about.