Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

they car is not really weak. I mean, front end parts if you want. maybe an alum rear camber block

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

What I mean wat effect will it havr besides making it longer will it be more stable

xrayracer1

iTrader: (1)

Ok cool thanks.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Ok, back to the ball cup binding.

I am not sure if it is the main cause, but I inspected one of the ball studs on my RM and 90% of the ones from my MM and each ball stud had a flat spot in the same place.

The Lunsford's are perfectly smooth/round, so this is probably why I am not experiencing the binding with them.

Those that are having binding, I am curious if your ball studs have the same flat spot.

EricNelson

I'd get the Alu C&D mounts plus pills, just to save time as a tuning option at the track. Maybe it's more of a difference in the RM car but I just wouldn't ever want to mess with rear toe or antisquat with stock stuff at the track since you have to take the car so far apart to get at them. Changing pills is super easy though. Just a little extra weight, but I run mod so don't care.

Pick up some of the optional #4670 set screws for tightening up the hinge pins once broken in.

As others have commented the car is very tough. I've yet to break anything on my b5m.

You will probably want to snatch up a B5R front tower, and F&R arms as another tuning option. Also most are building up shocks with the improved X rings, but that can be added later.

HTH

xrayracer1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice. I have high hope for this buggy. I have and original FT B4 which I've had since 2007 and the only part I've ever broken on it was one of the titanium turnbuckles which only broke due to some young kid who had never raced before driving his short course truck the wrong way in open practice and I ploughed into him and full throttle......

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Well short is more traction so longer is .....

seth556

iTrader: (43)

For those having ball cup issues (I realize it's only some of us) here's my trick. I've tried quite a few things but this seems to work best.

+ YouTube Video

blingy

iTrader: (6)

ive been reading about people using the mm tower with the rear motor front arms does it still have the same amount of up travel ,or does he shocks bottom out before the chassis does?

Wild Cherry

set the shock travel to 18 mm using inside hole on tower
adjust by turning shock eye
3mm internal limiter
Green spring
1.4 x 3 flat piston,35w
Hard b5r front arm
B5m front tower

smoother entry into corner, more steering ....

xrayracer1

iTrader: (1)

Ok I have a question about aftermarket wheels. I've been shopping for wheels, and on the different hobby shop websites they only show wheels (like proline and jconcepts for example) for the B4.1 and B4.2, but nothing for the B5, am I able to use those wheels or am I stuck using the kit wheels?

I know it sounds like a retarded question, I'm just not sure.....

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Or just go tapered 2X1.6 pistons, white springs front and rear, 32.5 front oil, 30, or 27.5 if more rear rotation is needed. New team tested setup via Jake Thayer. All B5 plastic suspension parts minus rest shock tower is used in this stepup. Typos or slicks used for loamy wet clay. If on a loose dirt track, switch to B5.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Chalk up another win with B5 with basically box stock setup over B5M. LRH, loamy wet clay switched cars after B5M was swapping rest ends. Moved to B5 with typos, 2X1.6 flat pistons 32.5/30. Stuck to the track, beat out fast mid-motor guys who were pushing all over the place no matter what mods, or clay setups posted anywhere.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Mod buggy is hooked up finally!

Wheelies galore! Just what I wanted lol.

Thanks for everyone's help!

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

The B5, B4.1 and B4.2 all share the same wheels.