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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 08-14-2014, 04:52 PM
  #13141  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Tried that on the cups. didnt work
Worked on all 3 of my cars. Zero suspension bind now.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:36 PM
  #13142  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Worked on all 3 of my cars. Zero suspension bind now.
lol, I am 100% sure it would not make them free like the tlr cups in my video. I tried the pinch. it was marginal and didnt do what I wanted. Which is super free.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:31 PM
  #13143  
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So was finally able to try the exact same setup up in my mod and stock car, my stock car is still HOOKED up. My mod car is definitely better with the exact same setup!

So my question for you guys is if I am still looking for more traction what would you guys suggest me doing? (Mostly rear traction)

Setup link: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...E89F581%211364

NOTE: I'm running 30/27.5wt oil now.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:35 PM
  #13144  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing

So my question for you guys is if I am still looking for more traction what would you guys suggest me doing? .
Start with the thin 1/24 lead piece under the shorty.(2.7oz)

If you do not wish to try the weight ?

Try inside hole on rear tower with 32.5 w

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 08-14-2014 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:10 PM
  #13145  
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Originally Posted by Jcozz
Running b5m on indoor super high bite ozite carpet. Trying to get more on power steering and make it rotate faster. I'm running short short link on the rear hubs back in rear. Yellow rear spring grey front. 19mm rear ride height and 18mm front ride height. 1.6's all around 27.5/32.5. Proline tires all around. What do you guys think? Thanks!
What trailing axle?
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:22 PM
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Anyone got any ideas on carpet setup? Ran carpet for first time last night, had white rear springs and gray front, green roll bar, car was traction rolling coming into corner, tried going harder, went blue rear and red fronts trying the other 2 roll bars, seemed like it made it worse, everyone seems to be saying go harder for higher grip, but it seems like you can't get that slip by going harder on carpet, started to go softer and it was better, does this seem right or did I just not go hard enough?
Looked at heaps of different setups online, some brands of car are hard setup and some were quite soft with 2.0 springs on back and 2.16 on front.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:13 AM
  #13147  
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Originally Posted by Johnjoe38
Anyone got any ideas on carpet setup? Ran carpet for first time last night, had white rear springs and gray front, green roll bar, car was traction rolling coming into corner, tried going harder, went blue rear and red fronts trying the other 2 roll bars, seemed like it made it worse, everyone seems to be saying go harder for higher grip, but it seems like you can't get that slip by going harder on carpet, started to go softer and it was better, does this seem right or did I just not go hard enough?
Looked at heaps of different setups online, some brands of car are hard setup and some were quite soft with 2.0 springs on back and 2.16 on front.
if its high grip carpet, try the following:

- add weight to the front (~50g) where you can in front of the servo. This smooths out corner entry and will reduce traction rolling. (The new AE brass front bulkhead will help).
- Ive preferred red front / white rear springs on carpet. Move the front shocks out on the tower.
- Run heavier damping. I used 37/32 with 1.6mm pistons.
- Keep the ride height low. 18mm is a good starting point.
- Gear diffs help on high grip. 3K-5K weight oil.
- Use the hard plastics if you have them.

The low profile stagger ribs smooth out the steering a lot (Schumacher or Proline).

Hope this helps. There are lots of other small changes you can make for carpet, but these seem to be the areas the car is most sensitive to.

Ray
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:06 AM
  #13148  
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For those experiencing ball-cup binding, recommend replacing stock studs with Lundsford Ti studs...problem solved
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:43 AM
  #13149  
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I bought one of those 5.7mm reamers off ebay. My stock cups weren't that bad. I bought a replacement set since I snapped a Lunsford titanium turnbuckle in one (ball cup didn't even come off!) and they were tight. One spin with the reamer and they were butter. Found more than 1 spin was too much.

Wildcat1971- Glad the TLR cups work for you, but there's no way I am putting TLR parts on my car! haha
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:57 AM
  #13150  
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lol, I am not using the tlr cups. haha. but I am looking at trying the cup reamer.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:19 AM
  #13151  
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I replaced my stock studs with the Lunsford's too and they are smooth. Before they were bound up like in Wildcats video.

The loosening could possibly be a result of the stretching caused by removing and replacing the ball cup ends, not 100% sure.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:22 AM
  #13152  
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Also, the new cups are extremely tight, so if they are not installed straight on, this could also contribute to deformation of the ball eyelet end causing it to bind.

I do wonder if a little bit of heat applied to the ends would form them back into shape.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:46 AM
  #13153  
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The stretching of the cups does help. I polished mine until they were marginal, then let them break in the rear of the way. now they are fine. if they start to stick now, it is because they are dirty. I clean them and put them back and they are good again. They are good cups, but I am going to look into getting the 5.7mm reamer.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:58 AM
  #13154  
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Has anyone gotten any info to when the factory team b5 cars are going to be available. Exact time frame is not important but maybe a estimate of a month,two months or we talking 6 months to a year. Based on the AE track record of previous cars usually about six months after original cars debut.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:04 AM
  #13155  
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Originally Posted by aeMatt
For those experiencing ball-cup binding, recommend replacing stock studs with Lundsford Ti studs...problem solved
I don't have problems with the cups there's nothing wrong with them .
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