Mason

and it never will. there's no substitute for fresh, be it donuts or new car smell.

Mason

If you have any brushed motor shims those should fit on no problem. the phenolic spacers might be a bit too wide and interfere with the chassis though.
Ask your LHS if they have dust covering some shim kits somewhere.
Another option might be is to drill a hole and set screw the arm. I haven't spent time determining if the pin is sliding for/aft at all.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

This is where the replaceable inserts on the alloy rear C and D blocks are a huge benefit.

Fabulous

iTrader: (42)

Mmmm I like Donuts!

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

Besides going to 3 gears and taking a total of 75 grams of weight off, are there any notable differences in the lite? It seems like those who are really waiting could almost put together one themselves, unless it's silly from a cost perspective.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

for those of us with the car and the bling, all we really need is the chassis. For people just getting into the B5M, the is a lot of cost saving for the lite car. Some guys also sold their B5M cars and want to built a fresh kit and dont have a car right now.

The car kinda sucks when it is heavy imo. I am about 1530 and it feels really good. So IMO you need to remove the weight.

ezlight

Hi all, Just got a used B5M, and am going to start the rebuild process.

It's my first AE car, and currently going through this thread. 866 pages though, it's going to take a while to catch up. Expect questions as I go, and apologize in advance if I happen to dig up an old post.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Welcome, just try and use the search function first...if you still cant find what you're looking for ask away.

ezlight

But of course, the first page answers most...I try to go through the threads to catch what DIDN'T work for others, so I don't make the same mistake. haha

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

These will do the whole car except the rear inner hinge pins, as they are larger in diameter: https://kyoshoamerica.3dcartstores.c...-Set_p_51.html

These will shim up the rear inner hinge pins: https://kyoshoamerica.3dcartstores.c...et_p_6833.html

They work like a champ on my car

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

I use the Kyosho shims as well

air8

iTrader: (7)

Why do you say the car sucks heavy?
In heavy form the car is great for me personally. I do use a shorty 3800mah battery(because I had them), but added both C & D brass blocks, which made no percievable difference. Indoor track, clay, damp, high bite (dries throughout the day).

Edit: I should weigh my car sometime. I have no clue how heavy it is.
Steel turnbuckles, AE light motor plate, AE aluminum rear ballstud mount, LRP Flow ESC, RX-461, old school AMB transponder, Ace 1015 fullsize aluminum case servo, Shelle battery brace, Jcon rear clamp hexes, steel and heavy plastic for everything else. LOL.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

it felt sluggish. I like the car more agile. Plus, for 17.5 the heavier car makes the motor work harder. I ran my car in mod a week ago and I still prefer a lighter car. 1530-1550. But our local tracks are unlike many others. really high bite damp clay running slicks.

air8

iTrader: (7)

What do you do shock setup for a lighter car?