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Old 04-10-2015, 09:32 PM   #12931
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Where is a good place to start and work towards more exit steering, small 15 second track.
Go back to the stock arms....I'm assuming you 're running b5 arms like everybody else.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:34 PM   #12932
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I use the mm front arms. But i went up in springs to remove some of the cork screwing on the front
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:01 PM   #12933
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Anyone using the hudy setup station what are you using for rear spacers? the ones that come with it are too wide and don't leave enough room for the nut. Do you take off the hexes and just use the spacers? I ended up adding a 12mm clamping hex (doubling them up) and it seemed to work for camber but i'm guessing not so much for track width or toe.

I think hudy makes a specific spacer for this but can't find a part number anywhere.
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:04 AM   #12934
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Anyone using the hudy setup station what are you using for rear spacers? the ones that come with it are too wide and don't leave enough room for the nut. Do you take off the hexes and just use the spacers? I ended up adding a 12mm clamping hex (doubling them up) and it seemed to work for camber but i'm guessing not so much for track width or toe.

I think hudy makes a specific spacer for this but can't find a part number anywhere.
I had to do the same thing on my Integy set up station. You can always put on setup wheels and measure it off of the board itself, just a little harder to tell though.
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Old 04-11-2015, 03:21 PM   #12935
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So you sock guys how is the lite chassis? Any other changes to set up once you got installed?
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:00 PM   #12936
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Q: How do I convert the VTS to a two-pad system?
A: The best way is to get a second #9603 pad and use the #7495 Vented V2 Slipper Hubs to make a true two-pad slipper.

Can I still use the stock VTS spring/spring adapter/locknut when I go to this 2-pad system? Or do I need to use the one from the b4.2 kit?

Last edited by H.A.H.; 04-11-2015 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:12 PM   #12937
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So you sock guys how is the lite chassis? Any other changes to set up once you got installed?
I've been running a milled chassis for quite some time. You need lot of traction for it to really work. We had a warm weekend a couple of weeks ago and my car felt especially hooked up. Unless you're on a surface with a lot of grip I don't think its as great as everybody thinks.....as far as weight, its a great bolt on.
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:31 PM   #12938
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I've been running a milled chassis for quite some time. You need lot of traction for it to really work. We had a warm weekend a couple of weeks ago and my car felt especially hooked up. Unless you're on a surface with a lot of grip I don't think its as great as everybody thinks.....as far as weight, its a great bolt on.
Anyone try this chassis in mod class yet?
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:38 AM   #12939
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The slrc chassis works great in modified.
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:17 AM   #12940
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I've run a milled chassis with both 17.5 and 13.5. The faster your going the more you notice it. Since i run outdoors and have had to start running a heavy chassis liner, its not as substantial of a weight savings....I think my thicker chassis tape adds 12g. Anyway, the harder you push the car with the milled chassis, the more it seems to react.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:17 AM   #12941
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I've run a milled chassis with both 17.5 and 13.5. The faster your going the more you notice it. Since i run outdoors and have had to start running a heavy chassis liner, its not as substantial of a weight savings....I think my thicker chassis tape adds 12g. Anyway, the harder you push the car with the milled chassis, the more it seems to react.
I'm considering the AE Lite chassis or even the SLRC chassis for racing modified on hard packed/clay, what do you mean exactly by the way it 'reacts'? More traction?
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:31 PM   #12942
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Its a combo. It obviously works better when there's enough traction but once you hit the traction threshold, you literally feel it more the faster you go. For example, I enter our 2 big sweepers at a much higher rate of speed with my 13.5 than with my 17.5 and it seems like the chassis gives more with the 13.5 car. Both cars have a very similar set up. Its like socket already said, the milled chassis is suitable for more than just stock.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:31 PM   #12943
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Its a combo. It obviously works better when there's enough traction but once you hit the traction threshold, you literally feel it more the faster you go. For example, I enter our 2 big sweepers at a much higher rate of speed with my 13.5 than with my 17.5 and it seems like the chassis gives more with the 13.5 car. Both cars have a very similar set up. Its like socket already said, the milled chassis is suitable for more than just stock.
I see you changed from the yz2. What didn't u like about that car?
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:33 PM   #12944
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Originally Posted by H.A.H. View Post
Q: How do I convert the VTS to a two-pad system?
A: The best way is to get a second #9603 pad and use the #7495 Vented V2 Slipper Hubs to make a true two-pad slipper.

Can I still use the stock VTS spring/spring adapter/locknut when I go to this 2-pad system? Or do I need to use the one from the b4.2 kit?
Just use the new (B5) spring/spring adapter/locknut.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:29 PM   #12945
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I see you changed from the yz2. What didn't u like about that car?
Whats a yz2? I've been running b5m and rb6 since last summer.....mostly the b5m. I also run an rt6, t5m, sct410, b44.3, sc6....no yz2.
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