Originally Posted by QDRHRSE

As far as the charger goes, why not just but a icharger 406?

Any reason why I would need the 406 over the 206b? The cost goes up significantly so I was just curious of the advantages. I was planning on picking up two battery packs.

I'd recommend a low profile servo for stock....Futaba or KO.

I will look into the low profile servos. I'm assuming this is for weight savings?


Why not try an SMC lipo? I swear by them and they are very inexpensive.

SMC seemed to be the battery of choice in my search as well, but they seem to be out of stock. Any sources where I can get them other than directly from smc?

MIP tools are the best.

Do you guys know which tools are required to work on the B5M? I was thinking the MIP metric hex set including 1.5, 2, and 2.5. I suppose I would need a wheel wrench. Any other suggestions?


You want to get crazy? Run the aka light weight wheels and tires too....I mostly run outdoors so I can't remember which ones. Typos with their special wheel (Evo?) that has the 1/8 scale style bead. Those are worth 40 grams alone.

Originally Posted by Bubonic-X

3 things Skiride..
Your radio is a good choice but Airtronics just came out with the MT4s it is a hundred bucks more but it is well worth the money because it is just as fast as the M12 and the screen is backlit

I will check out the mt4s. Also, any recommendations on a type or size of lipo to fit into the mt4 or mt4s? I used to run AA's and would rather have a rechargeable option.


HobbyWing is a great speedo no questions asked. But when it comes to Quality and ease of use and setup I love the Orion Thier brakes are super smooth and other guys at the track will have a program box you can use to set it up. They came out with the R10 stock for 129.00 bucks it goes down to a 5 turn motor it just doesnt have any boost settings

Thanks. My original thought was run the super inexpensive hobbywing for now until I learned more and decided if I wanted to run stock or mod. Also if I picked up another esc later, I could have the inexpensive hobbywing as a spare. I will check out that orion.

That charger is complete overkill My buddy and I have a Thunder Power AC/DC charger I got mine on ebay for 60 bucks, we charge at 6 to 7 amps and he finishes top 5 in the A. Im an old fart so i race for fun in Arizona

So I was originally planning on going with a 1/8th Mugen and was speccing chargers for that until I realized 1/8th ebuggy is not nearly as popular as 2wd buggy. Perhaps I can look into downsizing. I was considering the larger charger so I can still go 1/8th later and be able to charge 4s in a reasonable time.

The main reason i bring this up is because I did this too when I first started and all too many times I have seen guys get into this with the cheapest equipment or sometimes the most expensive equipment and they realize it is not what they needed
Go with the stuff that is reliable and will take you beyond novice. i have been doing this for 25 yrs so I have seen alot of people make the wrong choices when it comes to speedo's and radios. They realize quickly that they cant be competitive with cheap equipment or the wrong equipment and have to buy it all over again

Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by PFKAOG

The weeds in your yard getting too high?

Originally Posted by racer1812

That's called "fresh crop"

And being a groupie doesn't make you part of the band

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Buggy: B5M

Good

Radio: Aitronics MT4 (any suggestions for lipo for transmitter?)

Go for the newer MT4-S as someone pointed out before me.

Batteries: Promatch Shorty

Good

Battery Charger/Power Supply: Icharger 206B Ticket Combo

Good choice, but you *may* want to consider a dual port charger like the 308 if you think you might be running more than one class.

ESC: Hobbywing Justock

I'd go for the Stock Spec, myself

Motor: Schurspeed 17.5

Good

Gearing: (any suggestions?)

Try 31-33/69

Steering Servo: Savox SC-1258TG

I like XP servos myself

Tires: Dirt Web - Gold

Good

Spare Parts: (any suggestions?)

Arms, shocktower, caster blocks. You should be able to get most parts at your track if you break.

Spare Fastener Kit: (any suggestions?)
Shock Oil: (any suggestions?)
Setup Tools: (any suggestions?)

I like the Hudy offroad setup system myself. Other's may not, but I find it useful.

Tools/Allens/Wheelnuts: Was thinking MIP (any suggestions?)

MIP or Hudy. IMHO.

Body Paint: Tamiya

Thanks in advance for your help! Let me know if you think I would need anything else. The only thing I really have already is a soldering iron.

Chassis protector.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Testing the upside dw front Gull Wings right now..

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1

What experience have you had that makes you think it wont work? Glitching? Brown outs? My brother has this servo in a 22 with a Spektrum radio (old DX3R) and zero problems. I preffer the XP Digital servos myself.

Originally Posted by juicy74

I just recently raced stock class for the 1st time and the battery drained out quite a lot more compared to mod. Is that normal? Motor and esc temps were good though.

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1

Chalk me up to someone who does not like it light. I took both of my cars to LRH tonight. Added the Pucks system, milled motor plate, cut gears, all plastic suspension mounts, borrowed a set of broken in tires to try, and the thing still would go tail happy on me. Took my Shurr Speed out and put it in the mod car with all of the aluminum stuff in it was stuck to the track. Did not notice any appreciable speed decrease, and motor only came off 5 degrees warner which topped off at between 145-150 depending on run time. I wont be putting all of the stock stuff back in, but will definitely be running the stock top shaft instead of aluminum, will throw the aluminum hubs back in there, getting rid of the cut gears as well. I like the car better a bit butt heavy.

Originally Posted by narth327

u should try the shocks upside down for more unsprung weight...