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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:39 PM   #12736
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[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;13931359]I am playing with 25-0 on high bite. you could also play with the +3mm trailing. stiffer rear springs. locally we have been going to really stiff springs for 17.5 orange fronts and yellow rears. Also, I went back to gulwings with the stiff springs.[/QUOT

When you changed back to gull wing was it the b5m's and what shock tower did you use?
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:58 PM   #12737
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Mm tower in the front. Rm rear arms
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:57 PM   #12738
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I run that 160T at 7.4 volts and it works great. I just bought a used B5M for my wife to play with to see if she wants to try a novice race and I dropped a Savox 1251 in it. I had it sitting in a drawer so decided to get some use from it. Seems to be working fine but it isn't nearly as strong, fast, smooth or quiet as the Protek.
+1 Just put one in my XB4 and considering upgrading my 1258 in my B5M as well or going with the Super Speed version 160SS. Higher speed can make it feel more twitchy to some, but to me it has more over all "feel" to the car.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:58 PM   #12739
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IIRC the tall ones are for the b44. not sure what the little ones are for.
Which is kind of a joke since the b44 snaps those little bird cage things like crazy. Had to upgrade it to Al cups.
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Old 03-29-2015, 08:12 PM   #12740
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I am playing with 25-0 on high bite. you could also play with the +3mm trailing. stiffer rear springs. locally we have been going to really stiff springs for 17.5 orange fronts and yellow rears. Also, I went back to gulwings with the stiff springs.
Did you use the b5m gull wings and b5 shock tower?
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:05 PM   #12741
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Setup advice straight out of the F main
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:14 PM   #12742
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Originally Posted by gooba View Post
Ok for you guys that have ACTUALLY done all the lightweight mods(ie pucks,3 gear,chassis swap,etc) what are you seeing for lap time differences between the box stock car and the lightweight setup. I only have titanium screws and 3 gear and I gained maybe 2 tenths but I dropped 50degrees or more of heat
I just got one together. Super-lite w/ a milled chassis, 3 gear w/good bearings, pucks, ti everything, and I retained a lot of the plastic stuff for weight. I don't know how much time its given me. My lap times were 5-7 tenths faster than Friday night [today] with the new car but the perfect conditions today may have been the reason. If you did a few things and saw .2 improvement, you should be pleased. Unless you are always top 3 in the A main you probably would see more improvement from practice....I definitely fall into that category myself.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:15 PM   #12743
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Setup advice straight out of the F main

LOL
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:14 AM   #12744
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If you find the tuning advice to be inaccurate please feel free to correct it with what you find to be good advice. If you can't be part of a positive solution DON'T POST! 98% of us are sick of the crap here. Be a part of the solution, not the problem.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:30 AM   #12745
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Originally Posted by gearit View Post
Did you use the b5m gull wings and b5 shock tower?
If you change the arms the tower should be as well. In other words, b5m parts together or b5 parts together. Geometry is different from each other.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:35 AM   #12746
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Setup advice straight out of the F main
I found the most success with making adjustments to the front end. I started with everything completely box stock, and made my adjustments from there. I did my absolute best to stay as close to stock as I could, or just use options that came in the box. My reasoning for that, is that I wanted to say "the car is stock" if I happen to be doing well.

I drive on either 1 of 2 tracks/conditions. Both are super smooth, and med-somewhat high traction.

The changes I finally did go with were;

Green springs in Front
White springs in Rear
3x1.4 flat pistons up front
Lower the front roll center 2.5mm

I can put a setup sheet up later if you would like, but I know a few other guys that had the same mindset that I do, and they were kickin ACE! Granted, they were had tons more natural talent, or hand-eye coordination, but it is possible to do well with a stock setup. I was also running a 10.5 with timing.

Granted, I would sometimes come off the track with some spicy temps, but I just chalked that up to having a heavier car, and running a square pack.. (spicy temps = 165F)

Hope this helps ya out some
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:46 PM   #12747
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The changes I finally did go with were;

Lower the front roll center 2.5mm
How in the world are you making changes where you can measure how high or low you are setting your roll center? How do you lower your roll center exactly 2.5mm?
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:27 PM   #12748
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Setup advice straight out of the F main
I don't know why, but this is post is f****** hilarious!
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:36 PM   #12749
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
How in the world are you making changes where you can measure how high or low you are setting your roll center? How do you lower your roll center exactly 2.5mm?

Perhaps adding 2.5mm to ball studs?
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:41 PM   #12750
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Perhaps adding 2.5mm to ball studs?
That doesn't lower the roll center 2.5mm.
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