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Old 03-23-2015, 03:57 PM
  #12571  
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Originally Posted by Socket
Front hinge pin brace is just bling.
someone likes his bling...
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-10885031_10205517732765398_17808003199633010_n.jpg  
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
I can't speak for smoothunit, but mine did not.
Mine did (used in between bearings) but I lost them when the screws popped out. Locktite seems to have fixed the issue for me.
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
someone likes his bling...
I have the MIP transmission. My opinion about bling is well known.
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:14 PM
  #12574  
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Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results. I run blinky 17.5 class and am at 1548 grams. Tried lighter shorty battery at 1490 grams and car did not handle well. I had dropped the ride height to 22 vs 23.5 (what I normally run). Also run 2.4's as 2.2's make it feel slow. Also battery issues with 2.2's toward the end of a 7 minute main. Wondering if a milled chassis would maintain handling vs lighter battery since weight is being distributed throughout the car vs just the battery compartment. Looking forward to the input. Thanks
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:54 PM
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Did you lighten your shock package at all?
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:05 PM
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If you're having battery issues after 7 minutes, then I'd say you have a much larger issue than weight.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:44 PM
  #12577  
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Kept the shock oil the same...32.5/30. Springs 1.4 three hole front and 1.6 two hole rear. Grays front and whites in the rear. Current layout has a triple that eats up lots of folks towards the end of a 7 minute main. Eventually, cost me several positions as I had to revert to single/double. Batteries are probably getting tired and need to be replaced but I heard from majority of others that they were feeling it on the triple as well. Anyone who has a milled chassis feel free to chime in. Thanks again.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:11 PM
  #12578  
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Sold the Cougar since my local track is pretty beat up and picked up a new b5m kit since it was on sale. Other then throwing a three year transmission and the aluminum rear camber link, I don't think I will do any more "upgrades" trying to keep it light with a lightweight Orion 17.5 motor in the rear and using The TLR aluminum drive shafts from an old 22 I have. Should I really bother doing anything else?.
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:57 AM
  #12579  
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Originally Posted by Micah123
Kept the shock oil the same...32.5/30. Springs 1.4 three hole front and 1.6 two hole rear. Grays front and whites in the rear. Current layout has a triple that eats up lots of folks towards the end of a 7 minute main. Eventually, cost me several positions as I had to revert to single/double. Batteries are probably getting tired and need to be replaced but I heard from majority of others that they were feeling it on the triple as well. Anyone who has a milled chassis feel free to chime in. Thanks again.
SLRC chassis. Best money you will spend on the buggy short of MIP pucks of course if your running stock.
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
If you're having battery issues after 7 minutes, then I'd say you have a much larger issue than weight.
+1
My car is 1544g and I can EASILY run 10+ minutes at full tilt with a 4200shorty. Either your timing and gearing are maxed beyond the limit or you have a bind issue.
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by gooba
+1
My car is 1544g and I can EASILY run 10+ minutes at full tilt with a 4200shorty. Either your timing and gearing are maxed beyond the limit or you have a bind issue.
Maybe he's referring to just a loss of punch, as opposed to the battery merely lasting the duration of the race? I don't know either way, but just pointing out another possibility.

For the track I run at, my car is pretty good clearing a particular jump earlier in the race, but as it wears on I lose just enough punch that that same jump gets more and more risky due to the slight decrease in power. Maybe that's similar to what the OP was experiencing?
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:58 AM
  #12582  
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Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:17 AM
  #12583  
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Triple we are struggling with is very long for a 17.5 blinky buggy. Buggy can run full tilt but the triple is where it becomes questionable towards the end of the race.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.
Yes you can. Take out the three screws like you were going to disassemble the motor and take out the rotor. However, don't disassemble it. Once the screws are backed out far enough you should be able to rotate that bottom plate to the needed location to mount it to the motor plate. Then just tighten the three screws and you are all set. Sorry, if I had a picture it would help but I hope this made sense.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Yes you can. Take out the three screws like you were going to disassemble the motor and take out the rotor. However, don't disassemble it. Once the screws are backed out far enough you should be able to rotate that bottom plate to the needed location to mount it to the motor plate. Then just tighten the three screws and you are all set. Sorry, if I had a picture it would help but I hope this made sense.
This - There is only one of the 3 mounting positions that works in a buggy, just keep trying them until you find it
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