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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:52 PM   #12556
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Hi Tommy,

It uses a standard 30mm fan (outside dimension of fan body). I'll add a note to the diagram -- good input. Thanks for ordering a brace!

Thanks,
Erik of Erik's Parts.
Excellent! Thanks, Erik! Looking forward to my new fan mount.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:54 PM   #12557
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https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...f6&oe=55B243EC

So on this, did they just cut out a hole in the waterfall, and shoegoo it in?

Thats just the LPR fan that comes with the ESC isn't it?
Yes. Not shoegoo but a 2 part epoxy.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:59 PM   #12558
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Hey folks, got another question...

This past week I was racing my B5M for the first time. I bought it used and it included (among other things) the AE aluminum steering rack. This guy:


Well, the two buttonhead screws that come up from underneath (through the plastic steering rack) backed out. So I installed some replacement screws, but as you might suspect as I tightened the screws down, the steering got bound up. I came up with a make shift solution using a small washer on the outside and some Loctite on the threads, but I'm wondering if I lost some parts when the screws backed out.

What is the preferred method to secure the steering rack to the bellcranks without inducing any bind?

Any help would be much appreciated!
Tommy
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:11 PM   #12559
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http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10B5M/

I'd suggest consulting the manual to make sure you have the necessary parts for the steering rack.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:18 PM   #12560
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10B5M/

I'd suggest consulting the manual to make sure you have the necessary parts for the steering rack.
Thanks, but I had the manual with me (and also know where it is online), but saw nothing I was missing. Keep in mind the stock bellcranks are plastic so you can back off just a bit on the screws and the plastic would still likely securely hold the screws. Not the same case with the aluminum bellcranks I'm running.

So what are those of you with aluminum bellcranks doing to address this?

Thanks in advance!
Tommy
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:54 PM   #12561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks, got another question...

This past week I was racing my B5M for the first time. I bought it used and it included (among other things) the AE aluminum steering rack. This guy:


Well, the two buttonhead screws that come up from underneath (through the plastic steering rack) backed out. So I installed some replacement screws, but as you might suspect as I tightened the screws down, the steering got bound up. I came up with a make shift solution using a small washer on the outside and some Loctite on the threads, but I'm wondering if I lost some parts when the screws backed out.

What is the preferred method to secure the steering rack to the bellcranks without inducing any bind?

Any help would be much appreciated!
Tommy
Exactly the same thing happened to me on my first run- same part, same screws, both dropped out. I've simply used locktite (sp?) on the threaded end. 100 laps later and they haven't moved.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:40 AM   #12562
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Exactly the same thing happened to me on my first run- same part, same screws, both dropped out. I've simply used locktite (sp?) on the threaded end. 100 laps later and they haven't moved.
Did your steering rack come with 2 small aluminum spacers? put those between the bearings in the plastic piece. You can tighten the screws down more and not bind everything up with those in there.
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:37 AM   #12563
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Did your steering rack come with 2 small aluminum spacers? put those between the bearings in the plastic piece. You can tighten the screws down more and not bind everything up with those in there.
I can't speak for smoothunit, but mine did not.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:31 AM   #12564
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I mainly run stock, but many of you have expressed concerns about the new "Lite" car being no good for mod because of the 3 gear. Wanted to let you know that Rivkin and many other AE mod drivers are using the 3 gear in mod locally. Probably because of the amount of traction we have. So it will most likely going to be a tuning thing. I would not not discount the "lite" car over the 3 gear.
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:42 AM   #12565
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3 gear mod on a decent surface will be unbeatable in the right hands.
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:31 AM   #12566
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Lol... Key words "In the right hands"
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:45 AM   #12567
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all of us in mod locally run the 3 gear in our cars and its all around better than the 4 gear even when grip isnt awesome. Car brakes better rotates better and jumps flatter. all around better performance.
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:17 PM   #12568
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I mainly run stock, but many of you have expressed concerns about the new "Lite" car being no good for mod because of the 3 gear. Wanted to let you know that Rivkin and many other AE mod drivers are using the 3 gear in mod locally. Probably because of the amount of traction we have. So it will most likely going to be a tuning thing. I would not not discount the "lite" car over the 3 gear.
I am one of the guys that was concerned about it. I came to terms with the fact that the Lite comes with enough good hard parts that it was worth it to buy this car vs. the Team car, even if I was planning on running it in mod. This is excellent info you are passing on though, thank you!
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:37 PM   #12569
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I am one of the guys that was concerned about it. I came to terms with the fact that the Lite comes with enough good hard parts that it was worth it to buy this car vs. the Team car, even if I was planning on running it in mod. This is excellent info you are passing on though, thank you!
its still a much better deal to buy a lite + 4 gear parts if that's what you want.
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:08 PM   #12570
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My son is moving out of rookie where he has been racing a short course truck. Looking to buy a B5M for him to race in sportsman stock. The latest, greatest lightest buggy won't make much difference until he increases his skills. I am looking for durability.

I am looking at a new B5M Lite or several of the used B5Ms on the sale forms. What upgrades are NEEDED for someone coming out of rookie to become competitive and have durability. A new B5M lite is $280 v some of the used rollers with lots of upgrades for $350+. I just don't know what upgrades are necessary for an intermediate racer. Mainly racing indoor clay with high bite.
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